Cloth and Human Experience

Name: Cloth and Human Experience
Brand: Smithsonian Books
Price: 62.09 EUR
Availability: OnlineOnly

Annette B. Weiner Jnae Schneider(Herausgeber*in)

Smithsonian Books (Verlag)

1. Auflage

Erschienen am 6. August 2013

448 Seiten

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978-1-58834-384-0 (ISBN)

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Inhalt

Intro
Title Page
Copyright
Contents
Preface
Contributors
Chapter 1: Introduction: Jane Schneider and Annette B. Weiner
Part I: Cloth in Small-Scale Societies
Part II: Capitalism and the Meanings of Cloth
Part III: Cloth in Large-Scale Societies
Cloth and Gender
Conclusion
Part I: Cloth in Small-Scale Societies
Chapter 2: Why Cloth? Wealth, Gender, and Power in Oceania: Annette B. Weiner
Women and Their Brothers: The Trobriand Solution
Women and Their Brothers: The Samoan Solution
Cloth and Women's Production
Cloth and Men's Production
Cloth and Its Inalienable Properties
Cloth Wealth, Chiefs, and Gender
Why Cloth?
Chapter 3: Cloth and the Creation of Ancestors in Madagascar: Gillian Feeley-Harnik
The Sakalava
Clothing, Speaking, and Lying
Spirit Possession
Naming and Clothing
Substantiating Identity and Concealing Falsity
Clothing Spirits, Purifying Relics, and Reconstructing Tombs
Wrapping Ancestors and Claiming Power
Death, Life, and Politics
Chapter 4: Dressing for the Next Life: Raffia Textile Production and Use among the Kuba of Zaire: Patricia Darish
The Kuba: Ethnic Diversity
Raffia Textiles: Complementarity in Production
The Dynamics of Textile Fabrication
Ownership of Textiles
Raffia Textiles and Their Uses
The Context of Use: Raffia Textile Display at Funerals
Presentation of the Body at Funerals
Dressing for the Next Life
Why the Dead Wear Decorated Raffia Textiles
Chapter 5: Why Do Ladies Sing the Blues? Indigo Dyeing, Cloth Production, and Gender Symbolism in Kodi: Janet Hoskins
The Sumbanese "Blues": Indigo Dyeing in Context
Patrilineages, Matriclans, and the Secrets of Indigo
The Dangers of "Blueness"
Cloth Production and the Production of Children
Cloth in Mythology and Song
The Exchange of Cloth and the Exchange of Women
From Cloth to Skin: Female Tattooing as a Rite of Maturity
"Blueness," Cloth, and Gender Identity
Part II: Capitalism and the Meanings of Cloth
Chapter 6: Rumpelstiltskin's Bargain: Folklore and the Merchant Capitalist Intensification of Linen Manufacture in Early Modern Europe: Jane Schneider
Linen in European History
Mercantilist Doctrine and the Linen Promoters
Linen Promotion and the Mobilization of Labor
Flax, Fairies, and the Demonization of Spirits
The Environmental Impact of Flax Production
Promoters, Peasants, and Rumpelstiltskins
Chapter 7: Spun Virtue, the Lacework of Folly, and the World Wound Upside-Down: Seventeenth-Century Dutch Depictions of Female Handwork: Linda Stone-Ferrier
Exemplary Female Spinners and Winders
Female Handwork as an Erotic Metaphor
The Male Spinner and Winder: The Topsy-Turvy World
Spinning Rooms and "Women-on-Top"
A New Pictorial Context for the Female Winder
Chapter 8: Embroidery for Tourists: A Contemporary Putting-Out System in Oaxaca, Mexico: Ronald Waterbury
The Origins of Embroidering in San Antonino
The Rise of Putting-Out Operations
The Organization of the Work
Costs and Returns
Product Quality
Marketing
Government Involvement
Embroidery in San Antonino's Socioeconomic Structure
The Wealth Ranking of Putting-Out Households
Gender Relations and the Putting-Out Business
Consequences of the Putting-Out System
Part III: Cloth in Large-Scale Societies
Chapter 9: Cloth and Its Function in the Inka State: John V. Murra
Andean Textiles: An Introduction
Peasant Uses of Cloth
Claims on Peasant and Ethnic Cloth
Textiles at Court and in the Army
The Power of Cloth in Exchange
Chapter 10: Cloth, Clothes, and Colonialism: India in the Nineteenth Century: Bernard S. Cohn
Turbans of Identity
The British as They Wished to be Seen
Clothes and the Constitution of Authority
From Robes of Honor to Mantles of Subordination
"Orientalizing" India
The Gaekwar and the King
Indians in Everyday Clothes
The Uniform of the Indian National Congress
Heads and Feet: Turbans and Shoes
Chapter 11: Gandhi and Khadi, the Fabric of Indian Independence: Susan S. Bean
Lessons in the Social Meaning of Costume
Cloth in Economic Nationalism
The Mahatma as Semiotician
Chapter 12: The Changing Fortunes of Three Archaic Japanese Textiles: Louise Allison Cort
Mulberry-Plant Fibers as Sacred Threads and Sacred Cloth
Harmonizing of Opposing Elements in Sacred Cloth
"Thick Cloth" and Rural Survival
Silken Kuzu Cloth: From Luxury Fabric to Wallpaper
Banana-Fiber Cloth and Okinawan Cultural Identity
Change and Survival
Glossary of Japanese Written Forms

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