Guide to Basic Garment Assembly for the Fashion Industry

Preface vii
Acknowledgements ix
1 Introduction 1
Getting Started 2 / Getting to Know the Parts of the Sewing Machine3
2 Stitch & Seam Types 5
Stitch Types 8 / Seam Types 17
3 Attachments for the Sewing Machine 25
Edge Guide 25 / Presser Foot 27 / Hemming Foot 28 / Zipper Foot 29/ Folders 30
4 Needles & Thread 31
Parts of the Needle 31 / Thread 34 / Thread Consumption 36 / ThreadSizing 37
5 Interlining 41
Fusing Equipment 42 / Applying Interlining 43
6 Sewing Darts 47
7 Front Edge Fastenings 51
8 Inserting Zip Fastenings 59
Invisible Zip Insertion 60 / Concealed or Standard Zip with GuardInsertion 64
9 Attaching Waistbands 71
Standard 'Run On and Close Down' Waistband Application71 / Elasticated Waistband 76
10 Assembling & Attaching Pockets 79
Patch Pocket 80 / Shaped Pockets 84 / Jetted Pocket 88 / WeltPocket 94
11 Sleeve Opening Construction 101
12 Assembling & Attaching Cuff s 109
Two Piece Cuff 110 / One Piece Cuff 113 / Attaching the Cuff to theSleeve 115
13 Assembling & Attaching Collars 117
Collar Parts 117 / Stand Collar (Frequently Known as the MandarinCollar) 118 / Attaching the Stand Collar 121 / Flat Collar (AlsoKnown as the Peter Pan Collar) 123 / Attaching the Flat Collar 125/ One-Piece Shirt Collar 127 / Attaching the Shirt Collar 130
14 Sewing Problems 133
Stitch Formation Problems 133 / Fabric Distortion - Pucker135 / Damage to the Fabric 137
Garment Assembly Terms Glossary 141
Author 143
Index 145