Laksa

TOPPINGS, SAUCES & PICKLES

DASHI BROTH

Dashi is a Japanese stock and forms the underbelly of many Japanese dishes. Dried kombu or 'kelp' is simmered in water and then dried bonito flakes are added to give the stock a very distinctive smoky flavour and sea-water aroma.

15 g/1 tablespoon chopped dried kombu

15 g/1 tablespoon dried bonito flakes

MAKES 1 LITRE/1¾ PINTS

Pour 1.25 litres/5 cups cold water into a saucepan, add the kombu and set aside for 30 minutes to soft en. Bring the mixture to the boil over a medium heat, removing any scum that appears on the surface, then reduce the heat and simmer gently for 10 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat, stir in the bonito flakes and allow the broth to cool. Strain with a fine mesh sieve/strainer and use immediately or chill until required. The broth will keep stored in an airtight container for 3 days in the fridge or can be frozen for up to 1 month.

TIP For a vegetarian option, omit the bonito flakes and increase the kombu to a total of 20 g/1 tablespoon.

DEEP-FRIED SHALLOTS

Deep-fried shallots are an integral part of Thai, as well as Vietnamese, Cambodian and Lao cuisine, where they are sprinkled over numerous salads, soups, rice and noodle dishes. You can buy these from Asian stores but I like to make my own.

12 Asian shallots, thinly sliced

vegetable oil, for deep frying

MAKES ABOUT 50 G/? CUP

Pour the oil into a wok or (old) saucepan about 5 cm/2 inches up the side of the pan and set over a medium heat. Test the temperature of the pan by dropping a cube of bread into the hot oil - it should crisp within 30 seconds.

Deep-fry the shallots, in batches, for 2-3 minutes, until crisp and golden, but do not allow the shallots to burn or they will become bitter. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.

Serve immediately or store in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks. If they become a little soggy, crisp them up in a dry frying pan/skillet as necessary.

TIP Strain the left over shallot oil through a fine mesh sieve/strainer and use in salads and stir-fries.

NUOC CHAM

A classic Vietnamese sauce (below) served with everything from salads and soups to stir-fries. There are countless variations of this sauce but all are hot, salty, sweet and sour - the flavours so beloved in southeast Asia. This version is tempered to my taste, but feel free to add more chilli/chile if you enjoy a hotter flavour.

2 large red chillies/chiles, chopped

2 red bird's eye chillies/chiles, deseeded and chopped

2 garlic cloves, crushed

4 tablespoons grated palm sugar

4 tablespoons Thai fish sauce

grated zest and juice of 4 limes

salt and black pepper

MAKES ABOUT 100 ML/SCANT ½ CUP

Put the chillies, garlic and palm sugar in a pestle and mortar or food processor and pound or blend to form a paste. Transfer to a mixing bowl and whisk in the remaining ingredients.

Store in an airtight container in the fridge and use as required.

SWEET & SOUR CHILLI SAUCE

This Burmese chilli/chile dressing (opposite, right) is a simpler affair, but delicious nonetheless. I love it drizzled into soups but be sure to make plenty if you have a taste for it - you'll soon be adding a dash to every meal.

15 g/3 tablespoons chopped dried red chillies/chiles

4 garlic cloves, roughly chopped

2 tablespoons fish sauce

2 tablespoons soft brown sugar

50 ml/scant ¼ cup rice vinegar

MAKES 250 ML/1 CUP

Roughly crush the chillies in a pestle and mortar and transfer to a small saucepan with 75 ml/scant ? cup cold water. Bring the mixture to the boil and simmer very gently over a low heat for 2 minutes, add the garlic and cook for a further 3 minutes.

Transfer the mixture to a food processor with the fish sauce and sugar, and blend until smooth. Add the vinegar and blend again.

Pour the sauce into a sterilized glass bottle and seal. Store in the fridge for 2-3 days before using and then up to 1 month.

SAMBAL OLEK

This chilli/chile sauce (opposite, left) has a lovely depth of flavour to it with a hint of tamarind, which is very fragrant - perfect with salads and soups. You will find it added to many of the recipes in this book as it is ideal for any Asian-inspired dish.

5 Asian shallots, chopped

25 g/scant ¼ cup chopped large red chillies/chiles (deseeded, if desired)

2 large garlic cloves, sliced

1 lemongrass stalk, trimmed and chopped

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 tablespoon tamarind paste

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 tablespoon sugar

salt (optional)

MAKES 125 ML/½ CUP

Put the shallots, chillies, garlic, lemongrass and turmeric in a food processor or blender and blend until smooth, adding 2 teaspoons of the peanut oil if necessary.

Heat the remaining oil in a wok or large frying pan/skillet set over a very low heat and gently fry the paste for about 10 minutes, until really fragrant. Stir in the tamarind paste, soy sauce and sugar and cook, stirring continuously, for 5 minutes until the oil comes to the top.

Remove the pan from the heat and leave to cool completely. Use as required or store in a sterilized glass bottle or jar in the fridge for up to 1 month.

SOY & VINEGAR SAUCE

This sauce is perfect to drizzle over noodle soups.

50 ml/scant ¼ cup light soy sauce

2 teaspoons Chinese black vinegar

2 teaspoons sugar

1 teaspoon freshly grated ginger

1 teaspoon sesame oil

¼ teaspoon chilli oil

MAKES ABOUT 60 ML/¼ CUP

Combine all the ingredients in a bowl and stir well. Serve or store in a jar in the fridge for up to 5 days.

VEGAN FISH SAUCE

Make a batch of this vegan fish sauce and keep it in the fridge for your vegan cooking.

50 g/2 oz. seaweed (such as laver, dulse or arame), cut into small strips

500 ml/2 cups light soy sauce or tamari

8 black peppercorns

2 garlic cloves, peeled

1 dried Chinese or shiitake mushroom

sterilized glass bottle with an airtight cap

MAKES 250 ML/1 CUP

Add 500 ml/2 cups water to a medium pan and add the seaweed. Bring to the boil and then simmer for 30-40 minutes until the water has reduced by more than half. Let stand for an hour. Strain the mixture, reserving the liquid in another bowl. Rinse the pan and add the soy sauce or tamari,then add the peppercorns, garlic and dried mushroom. Bring to a simmer and add the seaweed reduction. Simmer for 30-40 minutes until the mixture has reduced to less than half. Strain and store in a sterilized glass bottle.

GARLIC OIL

This oil is particularly good drizzled over noodles but as it doesn't keep as well as chilli/chile oil, I make less and use it up within two weeks.

1 whole head of garlic

125 ml/½ cup peanut oil

sterilized glass bottle with an airtight cap

MAKES 125 ML/½ CUP

Peel each garlic clove and cut into 3 mm? inch slices. Put the peanut oil in a small saucepan and set over a low heat until shimmering. Add the garlic slices and cook for about 20 minutes until they are crisp and golden but not burnt.

Remove the garlic with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Reserve the oil, straining several times through a fine mesh sieve/strainer to discard any small bits of garlic and set aside to cool completely. Pour into a sterilized glass bottle and seal. Keep in the fridge for up to 2 weeks and use as required.

CHILLI OIL

Chilli/chile oil is a great addition to any store cupboard. Once strained the oil will keep in the fridge for a month but be sure to return to room temperature before use.

30 g/6 whole dried chillies/chiles

250 ml/1 cup peanut oil

sterilized glass bottle with an airtight cap

MAKES 250 ML/1 CUP

Put the dried chillies in a bowl, cover with hot water and then leave to soak for 30 minutes until slightly soft ened. Drain well and discard the water. Put the soft ened chillies in a food processor and blend to a rough paste.

Transfer the paste to a small saucepan, pour in the oil and set over a medium heat to warm gently, until the mixtures comes the boil. Boil for 1 minute then remove the pan from the heat and leave to cool completely.

Strain the oil through a fine mesh sieve/strainer, pour into a sterilized glass bottle and seal. Keep in the fridge for up to 1 month and use as required.

QUICK KIMCHI

Kimchi, a spiced pickled cabbage, is the national dish of Korea and is served with every meal. You will find it the perfect accompaniment to noodle soups and any Asian- inspired dishes.

350 g/6 cups Chinese cabbage, thinly sliced

4 teaspoons sea salt

2 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon dried Korean chilli flakes

2 teaspoons freshly grated ginger

2 garlic cloves, crushed

2 tablespoons fish sauce

2 teaspoons sesame seeds, toasted

2 spring onions/scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced

a 500 ml/1 pint sterilized glass jar with an airtight lid

MAKES 1 JAR

Put the cabbage in a bowl and stir in the salt. Add enough water to cover and leave to soak for 30 minutes. Drain well and squeeze out excess water using a clean kitchen cloth.

Mix together the sugar, chilli flakes, ginger, garlic, fish sauce and sesame seeds in a small bowl to make a thin paste. Stir the paste into the cabbage with the spring onions, cover and...