Performance Costume

List of Figures
Notes on Contributors
Foreword - Maija Pekkanen (Costume Designer, Finland)
Foreword - Simona Rybáková (Costume Designer, Czech Republic)
Acknowledgements

Introduction: Activating Costume: A New Approach to Costume for Performance - Sofia Pantouvaki (Aalto University, Finland) and Peter McNeil (University of Technology Sydney, Australia)

Section 1: Interpreting and Curating Costume

1.1 Real or Virtual?: Studying Historical Costume Drawings and Sketches - Margaret Mitchell (University of the Incarnate Word in San Antonio, Texas, USA)
1.2 Cooking: Studying Film Costume Design - Drake Stutesman (Barrymore Film Center, Fort Lee, USA)
1.3 Displaying Stage Costumes: Exhibitions at the National Centre for Stage Costume, France - Delphine Pinasa (Centre National de Costume de Scène, France)
Snapshots
1.4. Cross Cultural Costume Research: Beijing Opera Costumes - Alexandra B. Bonds (University of Oregon, USA)
1.5. Reading Maltese Carnival Costumes - Vicki Ann Cremona (University of Malta)
1.6. Curating Costume - Reflection - Aoife Monks (Queen Mary, University of London, UK)

Section 2: Personalities in Costume

2.1. Costume Centre Stage: Re-Membering Ellen Terry (1847-1928) - Veronica Isaac (university lecturer and freelance consultant, UK)
2.2. 'On and Off the Stage': Costume, Dress, and Locating the Actor-Manager's Identity, 1870-1900 - Helen Margaret Walter (Plymouth University and the University for the Creative Arts, Epsom, UK)
2.3. Extravagance, Expense and Notoriety: Gaby Deslys' French Costumes in America, 1911-14 - Emily Brayshaw (University of Technology Sydney (UTS), Australia)
Snapshots
2.4. A Foreign Affair On and Off Screen - Christina M. Johnson (FIDM Museum at the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising, Los Angeles, USA)
2.5. Recording Costume Design in the Theatre and Performance Collections at the V&A: Vivien Leigh and Oliver Messel - Keith Lodwick (Victoria and Albert Museum, UK)

Section 3: Costume Voices, Costume Histories

3.1. The First Premiere and Other Stories: Towards a History of the Costume Design Profession in Finland - Joanna Weckman (independent post-doctoral costume researcher, exhibition curator, lecturer and costume designer, Finland)
3.2. Spinning Yarns: Locating, Learning and Listening in the Social World of Popular Hindi Film Costume Production - Clare M. Wilkinson (Washington State University, USA)
Snapshots
3.3. Hollywood Costume: A Journey to Curation - Deborah Nadoolman Landis (UCLA David C. Copley Center for Costume Design, USA)
3.4. 'The Getting of Wisdom': Learning from Anna Senior - Jennifer Gall (National Film and Sound Archive of
Australia)
3.5. Design for TV: Costume and Contemporary Clothing - Chrisi Karvonides-Dushenko (costume designer in theatre, film and television, USA)

Section 4: Costume and the Body

4.1. The Body as the Matter of Costume: a Phenomenological Practice - Donatella Barbieri (London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London, UK)
4.2. The Body as Site: Interdisciplinary Approaches to Dress in/as Performance - Jessica Bugg (London College of
Fashion, University of the Arts London, UK)
4.3. 'Aware Wearing' - a Somatic Costume Design Methodology for Performance - Sally E. Dean (interdisciplinary choreographer, performer, teacher and somatic practitioner, Europe, Asia and USA)
Snapshots
4.4. Costuming the Foot: a Designer/Performer's Personal Artistic Methods - Alexandra Murray-Leslie (artist, researcher, performer and co-founder of the international art collective Chicks on Speed, Australia)
4.5. Costume and the Modernist Body: Fashioning August Strindberg - Viveka Kjellmer (University of Gothenburg, Sweden)

Section 5: Costume and its Collaborative Work

5.1. Building Costumes, Building Language in the Costume Workshop - Madeline Taylor (Queensland University
of Technology and University of Melbourne, Australia)
5.2. Fitting Threads: Embodied Conversations in the Costume Design Process - Suzanne Osmond (National Institute of Dramatic Art in Sydney, Australia)
Snapshots
5.3. Haptic Descriptions - Costume Design by Gillian Gallow and April Viczko - Natalie Rewa (Queen's University,
Canada)
5.4. The Costume Designer¿s 'Golden List' of Competence - Christina Lindgren (Oslo National Academy of the Arts (KHiO), Norway)

Section 6: Costume and Social Impact

6.1. Exploring Rossini's Berta: Young Audiences and the Agency of Opera Costume - Sofia Pantouvaki (Aalto University, Finland)
6.2. Designing Hospital Clown Costumes: Psychological and Social Benefits for Finnish Children's Healthcare - Merja Väisänen (Aalto University, Finland)
6.3. Costume of Conflict - Mateja Fajt (independent costume designer and researcher, Slovenia)
Snapshots
6.4. From Effect to Affect: the Costumed Body and the Autistic Child - Melissa Trimingham (University of Kent, UK)
6.5. 'Designing Tsunami': Costume Evolution from Documentary to Surrealist - Michiko Kitayama Skinner (University of Miami, USA)
6.6. The Collaborative Process of Costume Creation: Travesties in São Paulo - Fausto Viana (São Paulo University (USP), Brazil)