Tudor Costume and Fashion

FOREWORD
AUTHORITIES QUOTED
CHAPTER I HENRY VII (1485-1509)
SYNOPSIS.
Contemporary Sovereigns
Historical Data
"The Arts: Sculpture, Memorial Brasses, Tapestry, Illum. MSS., Portraits and Painters"
Section I
"Introduction, Royalty and Nobility, Men: Henry VII"
"Nobility, Men"
"Flemish, English, and French Fashions"
"French Fashions, Charles VIII"
"Italian Influences, Bases"
"Louis XII, The Emperor Maximilian, Archduke Philippe le Beau, Ferdinand V of Aragon"
Tenyse'
Perfumes and Pomanders
"Embroidery, Spanish Work, Cutwork, The Origin of Stumpwork"
The Yeomen of the Guard
"Royalty and Nobility, Women: Elysabeth of York, The Lady Margaret Beaufort"
"Nobility, Women, English, Flemish, and French"
"Spanish styles: Isabella of Castile, Joanna, Katherine of Aragon"
"The Lady Margaret Tudor, Marguerite, Archduchess of Austria, Anne, Duchess of Brittany"
Underclothes
Section II
"Middle and Lower Classes: Introduction, Professional, Gentry, Merchants, Lower Classes"
"Middle-class Women: Gentry, Merchants' Wives"
Lower Classes
Section III
"Hairdressing, Men: Middle and Lower Classes"
"Headgear, The French Bonet"
Headdresses
Hairdressing
The Gable Headdress
Hairdressing
Flemish Headdresses
Spanish-Italian Headdresses
French Headdresses
"Flemish, The Béguin"
Footgear
"Jewellery: Crowns, Collars, Neckchains, Jewels, Enseignes, Brooches, Enamels, Pendants, Bracelets, Rings"
Guilds and Trade
Weaving and Materials
List of Materials
Patterns
Colours
"Vehicles: Introduction, The Litter, The Carriage"
CHAPTER II HENRY VIII (1509-47)
SYNOPSIS.
Contemporary Sovereigns
Historical Data
"The Arts: Sculpture, Memorial Brasses, Tapestry, Illum. MSS., Portraits and Painters"
Section I
"Royalty and Nobility, Men: Henry VIII"
Some Officers of a Royal Household
"Italian Influences, Bases"
Landsknechten
"James IV, Charles Brandon, Thomas Wolsey, the Emperor Charles V, The Field of the Cloth of Gold, Henry VIII, Francis I"
"French Fashions, Francis I"
"Tenyse'. Royalty and Nobility, Women: Katherine of Aragon"
The Spanish Farthingale
The Lady Margaret Tudor
"Spanish Styles: Eleanor, Archduchess of Austria, The Lady Mary Tudor I, The Field of the Cloth of Gold, The Lady Mary Tudor II"
French Fashions: The Princess Claude of France
The Corset
The Fan
Underclothes
"Embroidery, Spanish Work, Stumpwork, Interlaced Work, Turkey Work"
Lace
Section II
"Royalty and Nobility, Men: Henry VIII"
"French Fashions: Francis I, Francois Rabelais, The Emperor Charles V, James V"
The Glove
The Handkerchief
"Nightshirts, Nightcaps, and Nightgowns. Royalty and Nobility, Women: Katherine, Anne Boleyn, Elizabeth Tudor, Jane Seymour, The Lady Mary Tudor II"
Perfumes and Pomanders
"French Fashions: Eleanor Archduchess of Austria, Anne de Heilly, Diane de Poitiers, Catherine dé Medici, Brantôme, The Lady anne of Cleves, Catherine Howard, Catherine Parr, The Ladies Mary and Elizabeth"
The Yeomen of the Guard
Gentlemen Pensioners
Section III
"Middle Classes: Professional, Gentry, Countrymen"
Middle Classes: Women
Lower Classes: Women
Section IV
Hairdressing
Headgear
"Headdresses: The Gable Headdress, The Béguin, French Version of the Béguin"
Spanish Reticulated Caul
"French Headdresses, The French Hood, The Bag-back Hood"
"Fancy Headdresses, Middle Classes"
Footgear
"Jewellery: Crowns and Coronets, Collars, Chains, Carcanets, Enseignes and Bonet Ornaments, Girdles, Finger Rings, Pendants and Jewels"
Clocks
Guilds and Trade
Weaving and Materials
List of Materials
Patterns
Colours
"Vehicles: Chariot, Charrette, Char, Litter"
Horses
CHAPTER III EDWARD VI (1547-53); QUEEN MARY (1553-8)
SYNOPSIS.
Contemporary Sovereigns
Historical Data
"The Arts: Sculpture, Memorial Brasses, Tapestry, Portraits and Painters"
Section I
"Royalty and Nobility, Men: Edward VI"
"French Fashions: Henry II, The Emperor Charles V"
"Spanish Styles: Maximilian, Philip of Spain"
"Nobility, Men: Edward Courtenay"
Embroidery
Lace
The Yeomen of the Guard
Gentlemen Pensioners
Middle Classes
"The Boys of Christ's Hospital. Royalty and Nobility, Women: The Lady Jane Grey"
"Spanish Styles, The Lady Mary"
"French Fashions: Eleanor, Archduchess of Austria, Catherine de' Medici, Mary Stuart, Queen Mary, Jane Guyldeford"
Section II
Hairdressing
Headgear
"Hairdressing, Women"
"Headdresses: The French Hood, Other French Headdresses"
Footgear
"Jewellery: Collars, Pendants, Rings"
Guilds and Trade
"Weaving, Colours"
Patterns
"Vehicles: Coach, Char"
CHAPTER IV QUEEN ELIZABETH (1558-1603)
SYNOPSIS.
Contemporary Sovereigns
Historical Data
"The Arts: Sulpture, Memorial Brasses, Tapestry, Illum. MSS., Portraits and Painters"
Section I
"Queen Elizabeth: Introduction, Appearance, Character, Accomplishments, Wardrobe, State Robes, Other Costumes, Furniture. Nobility, Women: The Farthingale, The Corset, The Ruff or Band, The Veil, The Fan"
"Margaret Douglas, Mary Stuart"
"The Baldachin, Sunshade, Umbrella"
Mourning Robes
Frances Sidney
Masks
"Nobility, Men: Henry Stewart, Lord Edward Seymour, James VI"
"Personages of Distinction about the Court: William Cecil, Robert Dudley, Sir Christopher Hatton, Edward de Vere, Sir Philip Sidney, Sir John Hawkyns"
"The Doublet, The Jerkin, Corsets"
"Trunks or Slps, and Hosen"
Stockings
Cloaks
Swords and Daggers
The Handkerchief
The Glove
"Perfumes, Pomanders, and Roses"
"French Fashions: Charles IX, Henry, Duc d'Anjou, Francis, Duc d'Alenço
"Noble Ladies: Louise, Queen-Consort of Henry III, Marguerite de Valois,Marie de' Medici"
Italian Influences
Italian Ladies
"Spanish Styles: Philip II, Philip III"
"Noble Ladies: The Great Infanta, Margaret of Austria"
Tenyse'
The Yeomen of the Guard
Gentlemen Pensioners
Section III
"Middle Classes: Gentry, Merchants and Burghers"
London Apprentices
Yeomen
Lower Classes: Peasants and the Poor
Middle-class Women: Gentlewomen
Lower Classes
A Tudor Country Wedding Procession
Section IV
"Hairdressing, Men: French Hairdressing, Italian Hairdressing, Spanish Hairdressing"
"Headgear: Hats, Caps, Etiquette connected with Headgear"
"Hairdressing, Women: Fancy Hairdressing, French Hairdressing, Italian Hairdressing, Spanish Hairdressing"
"Headdresses: The French Hood, Hats, Other Headdresses of Mary Stuart, Cauls and Capes, Head Ornaments, French Headdresses, Widows' Weeds, Italian Headdresses, Spanish Headdresses"
Middle Classes
Footgear
Jewellery: Crowns, Collars, Chains, Carcanets, Necklaces, Pendants, Jewels, Miniatures, Jewels of Queen Elizabeth, Hat and Head Ornaments, Girdles, Bracelets, Earrings, Ruff and Sleeve Ornaments, Aiglettes, Finger Rings, French Jewellery, Jewels of Mary Stuart
Clocks
Watches
Guilds and Trade
Weaving and Materials
List of Materials
Patterns
List of Colours
"Vehicles: The Litter, Coach, Chair"
GENERAL INDEX TO BOOKS I AND II
INDEX OF NAMES IN BOOKS I AND II
ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR AND HALF-TONE
BOOK I
I. KING HENRY VII AND QUEEN ELYSABETH
II A. "ISABELLA, QUEEN OF CASTILE"
II B. "FERDINAND V, KING OF ARAGON"
III. "YEOMEN OF THE GUARD, 1501-30 AND 1530-50"
IV. QUEEN ELYSABETH OF YORK
V. "JOANNA, QUEEN OF CASTILE"
VI. "AN ENGLISH NOBLEMAN, 1510"
VII. "A LANDSKNECHT; FRANCIS I, KING OF FRANCE"
VIII A. "CHARLES, COMTE DE FLANDRES, 1506"
VIII B. "CHARLES, V, KING OF THE ROMANS 1526"
IX. "KING HENRY VIII AT THE FIELD OF THE CLOTH OF GOLD, 1520"
X A. "THE PRINCESS KATHERINE OF ARAGON, 1501"
X B. "KING HENRY VIII, 1521"
XI. "ELEANOR OF AUSTRIA, QUEEN OF PORTUGAL, c. 1518"
XII. "THE PRINCESS MARY TUDOR, 1514"
XIII. "KING HENRY VIII, 1542"
XIV. "FRANCIS I, KING OF FRANCE"
XV. "QUEEN JANE SEYOMOUR, 1536"
XVI. "A NOBLE LADY OF THE COURT OF HENRY VIII, 1530-40"
XVII. "A NOBLE LADY, 1540-50"
XVIII. ARTICLES OF JEWELLERY
BOOK II
XIX KING EDWARD VI
XX. KING EDWARD VI
XXI. "HENRY II, KING OF FRANCE, 1558"
XXII. "PRINCE PHILIP OF SPAIN, 1554"
XXIII. "YEOMEN OF THE GUARD, 1550-75 and 1575-95"
XXIV. "THE LADY JANE GREY, 1553"
XXV. "QUEEN MARY, 1553"
XXVI. "QUEEN MARY, 1554"
XXVII. "QUEEN ELIZABETH IN CORONATION ROBES, 1559"
XXVIII. "QUEEN ELIZABETH WITH GODDESSES, 1560"
XXIX. "QUEEN ELIZABETH, 1560-70"
XXX. "QUEEN ELIZBETH, 1570"
XXXI. "QUEEN ELIZABETH, 1570-75: FOUR SUBJECTS"
XXXII. "QUEEN ELIZABETH, 1578-85: FOUR SUBJECTS"
XXXIII. "MARY STUART, QUEEN OF SCOTLAND AND FRANCE, 1560-1"
XXXIV. "MARY STUART, QUEEN OF SCOTLAND, 1562"
XXXV. "CATHERINE DÉ MEDICI AND HER FAMILY, 1561"
XXXVI. "CHARLES IX, KING OF FRANCE, 1561"
XXXVII. "QUEEN ELIZABETH, 1587"
XXXVIII. "QUEEN ELIZABETH, 1588"
XXXIX. "QUEEN ELIZABETH, 1588"
XL. "QUEEN ELIZABETH, 1589"
XLI. "QUEEN ELIZABETH, 1589-94: FOUR SUBJECTS"
XLII. "QUEEN ELIZABETH, 1590"
XLIII. "QUEEN ELIZABETH IN PARLIAMENT, 1601"
XLIV. "MARY FITTON, AGED 17, 1596"
XLV. "QUEEN ELIZABETH AT BLACKFRIARS, 1600"
XLVI. "PHILIP II, KING OF SPAIN, c. 1580"