INTRODUCTION
I have loved writing this book. It has been a wonderfully creative exploration of how easy and enjoyable it is to cook with pulses. The truth is that I have not always been a huge fan of dried beans, lentils and chickpeas. I wasn't convinced by their texture, found them a bit bland and never had time to faff about soaking and boiling them. But over the last couple of years I slowly started to include many more pulses in my recipes, both in my capacity as a home cook and as a food writer. And I was starting to really enjoy them. So why the marked change?
BETTER QUALITY
Pulses have been eaten by people throughout history and today form part of the staple diet in many countries. Not in the UK. Our most eaten pulse is the haricot/navy bean and that's because we consume them as baked beans (and those beans are imported from the States, anyway!). Traditionally pulses were considered food of the poor and so we have invested very little in their farming. Finally the tides are turning and higher quality pulses are more widely available. British brands like Bold Bean Co. and Hodmedod's are committed to bringing us more varieties of legumes and you can absolutely taste the difference. They're plump, creamy and flavourful. As well as these homegrown options, we also have greater access to imported pulses from countries likes Spain where they are supported agriculturally and highly prized.
GREAT VALUE
It is hardly coincidence that I started cooking more with pulses just as we went through one of the worst cost of living crises in decades. In the early 2020s food inflation was at an all-time high and everyone needed to cut shopping bills. Pulses are fantastic value. Whether dried or ready-cooked, they are a brilliant low-cost way to include protein and fibre in a diet. Even the newer premium brands mentioned above, which do come at a higher price, are still good value if you consider them as an alternative to meat.
GOOD HEALTH
We are much more conscientious about what we eat nowadays. It is clear that what we put inside our bodies has long-term implications and there is much science-backed evidence on the health benefits of pulses. They are a good source of plant-based protein, they provide fibre, which is essential for a healthy gut, they count towards our five a day and are packed with vitamins, minerals and antioxidants.
ENVIRONMENTAL BENEFITS
For the sake of our planet we need to adapt our diets to include more plant-based proteins. and with some urgency. Intensive animal farming is driving deforestation, creating greenhouse gases and polluting our water systems. Meanwhile the ecological arguments for farming more pulses are indisputable: they're sustainable, easy to grow, water efficient and actually have positive implications for the environment. Many plants in the legume family are 'nitrogen fixers' meaning they have the ability to convert nitrogen in the atmosphere into a form that can be used in the soil, making it more fertile for other crops.
These were all very convincing incentives to eat more pulses and, as I started to cook with them more, I also realized just how underrated they are. They are easy to prepare, so versatile in the ways they can be cooked and there are very few ingredients they don't go with. I hope this book demonstrates how rewarding and wholesome it is to eat pulses every day, without sacrificing the foods you already love. We should all be eating more pulses, and now is a good time to start!
A WHISTLE-STOP GUIDE TO PULSES
Firstly it is important to clarify what exactly is meant by 'pulses'. They are the dried (as opposed to fresh) edible seeds that are found in the pods of plants in the legume family, and this includes all dried beans, peas and lentils. There are many varieties and you'll find that different countries around the world cultivate their favoured species.
I have tried to stick to the most commonly available pulses and have listed them out here. As our appetites for pulses grow I expect we will see more and more varieties on offer, and I urge you to experiment with new and different options where you can.
Aduki beans - a small mahogany coloured bean that is popular in East Asian cooking. They are used in savoury dishes, and also to make red bean paste which is often used in sweets.
Beluga lentils - delicate, glossy black lentils that are said to resemble beluga caviar. They hold their shape well when cooked and look gorgeous in salads.
Black beans - also known as black turtle beans and popular in Latin American cooking, these beans are great in chillies, salsas and salads. Their rich, purple-black colour means they're a good source of polyphenols.
Black eyed beans/peas - distinctive with their black spots on an otherwise off-white bean, these are popular in southern US cuisine and in parts of Africa. They're lovely and creamy when cooked.
Borlotti/cranberry beans - uncooked borlottis are a beauty of a bean with their mottled cream and cranberry-red skins. Once cooked they turn a russet colour with a soft texture. Popular in Italian cooking.
Brown lentils - a great-value lentil (which are so called because of their 'lens'-like shape), with a mild flavour and soft texture.
Butter/lima beans - these large, plump beans have sky-rocketed in popularity in recent years. They're a popular choice when swapping meat out of recipes as they feel substantial and meaty.
Cannellini beans - one of the most widely available white beans, these are mild and creamy and a good all-purpose option.
Carlin peas - expect to hear more about these small, nutty brown peas. They are becoming more widely available in shops, both dried and pre-cooked, and make a great alternative to chickpeas with a similarly impressive nutrient profile.
Chickpeas/garbanzo beans - are actually a type of bean. They have a distinctively nutty flavour and can be eaten whole, crushed or blended until smooth (most commonly in houmous). If anyone tells me they don't like chickpeas, I tell them to buy a jar of Bold Bean Co's queen chickpeas. They're a large variety which is exceptionally plump and tasty!
Flageolet beans - these are immature haricot beans, small in size and light green colour. Probably France's most popular bean.
French green lentils - very small lentils that are mottled slate-grey and dark green. They are firm when cooked with slightly peppery notes.
Haricot/navy beans - the original baked bean, haricots are a small and very tender white bean that can be used interchangeably with cannellini.
Kidney beans - eaten most commonly in the UK in chilli con carne, these deep red beans are so called because of their shape. As with black and aduki beans, their deep colours means they are high in polyphenols.
Mung beans & moong dal - neither classified as a bean or as a lentil, mung beans are small, green pulses (also known as green gram). Popular in Asian cooking, they tend to be sold dried and should be sufficiently soaked before cooking until they start to soften and split. When mung beans are split open and dried, they become yellow moong dal. When whole mung beans are sprouted, they become beansprouts.
Pinto beans - popular in Mexican and Tex-Mex cooking, smooth and earthy pintos are commonly used to make refried beans.
Puy/French lentils - often consider the king of lentils, puy lentils must be grown in a designated area of France. They are robust, nutty and wonderful in salads.
Red split lentils - these cook very quickly from dried and break down into a pulpy texture making them popular in soups and stews.
Split yellow peas - popular in British cooking, split yellow peas were traditionally used in pease pudding and split pea soup. They can be cooked relatively quickly from dried to become soft, mellow and wonderfully comforting.
COOKING WITH PULSES
DRIED, CANNED OR JARRED?
Whether you choose dried pulses or those that have been pre-cooked is totally up to you. Personally I couldn't live without the convenience of cans and jars, and I have written these recipes assuming that many people will choose canned as they are quick to cook, readily available and great value. If you prefer to cook pulses from dried then by all means do so, they are wonderful this way and you can add aromatics (such as onions, bay leaves and black peppercorns) as they simmer.
If cooking from dried, expect pulses to roughly double in weight after cooking. I would also advise to always follow the pack instructions as soaking and cooking times can vary between species. And always make sure that they are cooked until completely soft; undercooked beans are neither pleasant nor easy to digest, I warn you! In the case of kidney beans, they can be toxic if undercooked, so always be extra vigilant that they have been boiled for a minimum of 10 minutes.
CHOOSING THE BEST QUALITY
In any major supermarket you should find a good variety of pulses, not just whether they are dried or pre-cooked, but also different brands, from different origins and at various price points.
It's great to have so much choice, but as with any other ingredient the quality does vary. In the writing of this book, I tasted many different brands of pulses, and some are softer, more tender and more flavoursome than others. I think once you find an option you like and...
