Preface
Part One: Charting a Course
Chapter 1. Exit Plan
Chapter 2. Leaving Home
Part Two: The Allure of the Loire
Chapter 3. The Winemaker's Cottage
Chapter 4. Two Faces of Eden
Chapter 5. The House on rue Sainte
Chapter 6. Cuisine Volante
Chapter 7. Writer in Residence
Chapter 8. Houseguests
Chapter 9. Saumur Sketches
Chapter 10. Cheese Impresario
Chapter 11. Fruit of the Vine
Chapter 12. Life as a Locataire
Chapter 13. Second Thoughts
Part Three: The Bounty of Basque Country
Chapter 14. The Shipbuilder's Mansion
Chapter 15. Mountains and Ocean
Chapter 16. Let There Be Light!
Chapter 17. Signposts
Chapter 18. Camino Fever
Chapter 19. Homestay
Chapter 20. Saturday Haul
Chapter 21. French Coiffure
Chapter 22. Unacquired Skills
Chapter 23. Cake Culture
Chapter 24. Culinary Boundaries
Chapter 25. From a Distance
Chapter 26. Border Crossings
Chapter 27. The Seduction of Pintxos
Chapter 28. Pharmacie French
Chapter 29. Autumn Roses
Chapter 30. The Last Supper
Part Four: Paris Past, Present, Perfect
Chapter 31. Countryside in the City
Chapter 32. From Terroir to Terreur
Chapter 33. Mourning, Public and Private
Chapter 34. Acts of Deviance
Chapter 35. Minotaur Moving His House
Part Five: Reentry and Reinvention
Chapter 36. "Semi-colon" and Exclamation Point
Chapter 37. How Much to Share -- And With Whom?
Chapter 38. In Guests We Trust
Chapter 39. Turning the Page
Further Reading
Index
