Law & Odeur

1 - Cover [Seite 1]
2 - § 1 Introduction [Seite 24]
2.1 - I. Fragrance Protection Issue [Seite 24]
2.2 - II. Subject Matter Definition [Seite 27]
2.3 - III. Outline of the Present Study [Seite 29]
3 - Part 1: Fragrance Fundamentals [Seite 31]
3.1 - § 2 Perfume Through the Ages [Seite 31]
3.1.1 - I. Perfume in Ancient Times [Seite 31]
3.1.2 - II. Modern Perfumery [Seite 33]
3.2 - § 3 Behind the Scenes of Perfumery [Seite 36]
3.2.1 - I. The Flavour and Fragrance Industry [Seite 36]
3.2.1.1 - 1. A Handful of Powerful Companies [Seite 36]
3.2.1.2 - 2. The Fragrance Industry [Seite 37]
3.2.2 - II. Perfume and Cosmetic Brands [Seite 38]
3.2.3 - III. The Perfumers [Seite 39]
3.2.3.1 - 1. "Métier" [Seite 39]
3.2.3.2 - 2. Creative Process and Commercial Constraints [Seite 40]
3.3 - § 4 The Two Aspects of Perfume [Seite 43]
3.3.1 - I. The Olfactory Source [Seite 43]
3.3.1.1 - 1. Natural Raw Materials [Seite 43]
3.3.1.1.1 - a) Origin [Seite 43]
3.3.1.1.2 - b) Process [Seite 44]
3.3.1.2 - 2. Synthetic Raw Materials [Seite 45]
3.3.1.2.1 - a) Origin [Seite 45]
3.3.1.2.1.1 - (i) Nature Isolates [Seite 46]
3.3.1.2.1.2 - (ii) Synthesised Chemicals [Seite 46]
3.3.1.2.1.3 - (iii) Discoveries [Seite 46]
3.3.1.2.2 - b) Advantages [Seite 46]
3.3.1.3 - 3. Nature Identical Materials [Seite 47]
3.3.1.3.1 - a) Headspace [Seite 48]
3.3.1.3.2 - b) SPME [Seite 48]
3.3.1.4 - 4. The Mixture of Raw Materials [Seite 48]
3.3.2 - II. The Olfactory Form [Seite 49]
3.3.2.1 - 1. Definition [Seite 49]
3.3.2.1.1 - a) An Abstract Notion [Seite 49]
3.3.2.1.2 - b) Classification [Seite 50]
3.3.2.2 - 2. Evolutionary Character [Seite 51]
3.3.2.2.1 - a) Architecture [Seite 51]
3.3.2.2.2 - b) Transformation [Seite 52]
3.4 - § 5 Perception and Identification of the Olfactory Form [Seite 53]
3.4.1 - I. The Smell Sense [Seite 53]
3.4.1.1 - 1. Physiology [Seite 53]
3.4.1.2 - 2. Memorisation [Seite 55]
3.4.2 - II. The Question of Subjectivity [Seite 55]
3.4.2.1 - 1. Chacun ses Goûts [Seite 55]
3.4.2.2 - 2. Poverty of the Olfactory Language [Seite 56]
3.4.2.3 - 3. The Difficulty of Describing Smells [Seite 57]
3.5 - § 6 Olfactory Measurement Methods [Seite 59]
3.5.1 - 1. Physical and Chemical Measures [Seite 59]
3.5.1.1 - a) Gas Chromatography [Seite 59]
3.5.1.2 - b) Mass Spectrometry [Seite 60]
3.5.1.3 - c) Nuclear Magnetic Resonance [Seite 60]
3.5.1.4 - d) Electronic Noses [Seite 60]
3.5.2 - 2. A Doubled Edged Sword [Seite 61]
3.5.2.1 - a) Fine Fragrance Reverse Engineering [Seite 61]
3.5.2.2 - b) Proving Perfume Copies [Seite 62]
3.5.2.2.1 - (i) Limits of Olfactory Measurement [Seite 62]
3.5.2.2.2 - (ii) Sensory Analysis [Seite 62]
3.6 - § 7 From Fragrance Imitation to Fragrance Infringement [Seite 63]
3.6.1 - I. Lawful Copying of Fine Fragrance [Seite 63]
3.6.2 - 1. Copying as Technical Education [Seite 63]
3.6.3 - 2. Copying as Inspiration [Seite 64]
3.6.3.1 - II. Fine Fragrance Infringement [Seite 64]
3.6.4 - 1. Fragrance Knockoff [Seite 64]
3.6.4.1 - a) Characteristics [Seite 64]
3.6.4.2 - b) Joint Copies [Seite 65]
3.6.4.3 - c) Replicas of the Fragrance [Seite 66]
3.6.5 - 2. Fragrances with a Completely New Identity [Seite 67]
3.7 - § 8 Conclusion of Part 1 [Seite 68]
4 - Part 2: Fragrances and Patents [Seite 70]
4.1 - § 9 Patent Protection [Seite 70]
4.1.1 - I. Definitions and Legal Bases [Seite 70]
4.1.2 - II. Enforcement [Seite 71]
4.1.2.1 - 1. Patent Application [Seite 71]
4.1.2.2 - 2. Rights under Patents [Seite 71]
4.1.3 - III. Patentability Requirements [Seite 72]
4.1.3.1 - 1. Three of Four Conditions? [Seite 72]
4.1.3.2 - 2. The Concept of Invention in European Law [Seite 73]
4.2 - § 10 The Olfactory Invention [Seite 75]
4.2.1 - I. Inventive Scope [Seite 75]
4.2.1.1 - 1. Exclusion of Aesthetic Creations [Seite 75]
4.2.1.2 - 2. Fragrances as Inventions [Seite 76]
4.2.2 - II. Formula of the Olfactory Source [Seite 77]
4.2.2.1 - 1. Fragrance Formula [Seite 77]
4.2.2.2 - 2. Chemical Formula [Seite 78]
4.2.3 - III. Ingredients of the Olfactory Source [Seite 79]
4.2.3.1 - 1. Natural Raw Materials [Seite 79]
4.2.3.1.1 - a) As Such [Seite 79]
4.2.3.1.2 - b) As Intermediary Chemical Products [Seite 80]
4.2.3.2 - 2. Synthetic Raw Materials [Seite 80]
4.2.3.2.1 - a) Classification [Seite 80]
4.2.3.2.2 - b) A Lucrative Business [Seite 81]
4.3 - § 11 Olfactory Source and Patentability Requirements [Seite 83]
4.3.1 - I. Novelty [Seite 83]
4.3.2 - II. Inventive Step [Seite 84]
4.3.2.1 - 1. Non-Obviousness [Seite 84]
4.3.2.1.1 - a) The Person "Skilled in the Art" [Seite 84]
4.3.2.1.2 - b) Obvious and Non-Obvious Scents [Seite 84]
4.3.2.2 - 2. Perfume and Technical Aspect [Seite 85]
4.3.3 - III. Industrial Applicability [Seite 86]
4.4 - § 12 Practical Relevance of Patent Protection for Perfumes [Seite 87]
4.4.1 - I. Formal Obstacles [Seite 87]
4.4.1.1 - 1. Duration of the Protection [Seite 87]
4.4.1.1.1 - a) Perfumes [Seite 87]
4.4.1.1.2 - b) Synthetic Materials [Seite 88]
4.4.1.2 - 2. Costs of Protection [Seite 88]
4.4.2 - II. Substantial Obstacles [Seite 89]
4.4.2.1 - 1. Necessary Technical Character [Seite 89]
4.4.2.2 - 2. Disclosure of the Formula [Seite 90]
4.5 - § 13 Conclusion of Part 2 [Seite 91]
5 - Part 3: Fragrances and Trademarks [Seite 93]
5.1 - § 14 Trademark Protection [Seite 93]
5.1.1 - I. Trademark Definition [Seite 93]
5.1.1.1 - 1. Function of a Trademark [Seite 93]
5.1.1.2 - 2. Evolution of Trademarks over the Years [Seite 94]
5.1.2 - II. Legal Bases [Seite 95]
5.1.2.1 - 1. Community Law [Seite 95]
5.1.2.1.1 - a) Harmonisation within the Member States [Seite 95]
5.1.2.1.2 - b) Registration Requirements [Seite 96]
5.1.2.1.2.1 - (i) Graphical Representation [Seite 96]
5.1.2.1.2.2 - (ii) Distinctiveness [Seite 97]
5.1.2.2 - 2. International Law [Seite 97]
5.1.2.2.1 - a) Trademark Law Treaty [Seite 97]
5.1.2.2.2 - b) WTO [Seite 98]
5.1.3 - III. Trademark Registration [Seite 98]
5.1.3.1 - 1. Application Process [Seite 98]
5.1.3.1.1 - a) Community Application [Seite 99]
5.1.3.1.2 - b) International Application [Seite 99]
5.1.3.2 - 2. Advantages of Trademark Protection [Seite 99]
5.2 - § 15 The Olfactory Sign [Seite 100]
5.2.1 - I. Different Kinds of Olfactory Signs [Seite 100]
5.2.1.1 - 1. Fragrant Products [Seite 100]
5.2.1.1.1 - a) Naturally and Usually Scented Products [Seite 100]
5.2.1.1.2 - b) "Unscented" Products [Seite 102]
5.2.1.1.2.1 - (i) Fragrant Valorisation of Neutral Smelling Products [Seite 102]
5.2.1.1.2.2 - (ii) Hiding a Natural Unpleasant Smell [Seite 102]
5.2.1.2 - 2. Perfumed Places [Seite 103]
5.2.1.2.1 - a) Corporate Smells [Seite 103]
5.2.1.2.2 - b) Atmosphere Smells [Seite 104]
5.2.2 - II. From the Olfactory Sign to the Olfactory Mark [Seite 105]
5.2.2.1 - 1. Why an Olfactory Mark? [Seite 105]
5.2.2.2 - 2. The Perception Problem [Seite 108]
5.2.2.2.1 - a) Access to the Smell [Seite 108]
5.2.2.2.2 - b) Evolution and Recognition [Seite 109]
5.3 - § 16 The Registration of Olfactory Signs in Practice [Seite 110]
5.3.1 - I. Pioneering Applications in Common Law [Seite 110]
5.3.1.1 - 1. The First Historical Registration in the US [Seite 110]
5.3.1.2 - 2. Three Olfactory Mark Applications in the UK [Seite 112]
5.3.1.2.1 - a) The Chanel Failure [Seite 113]
5.3.1.2.2 - b) Perfumed Tyres and Darts Successes [Seite 113]
5.3.1.3 - 3. Olfactory Trademark Practice in Australia and New Zealand [Seite 114]
5.3.2 - II. Regressive Evolution of the Jurisprudence in the EU [Seite 115]
5.3.2.1 - 1. Controversial Acceptance of Olfactory Marks by the OHIM [Seite 116]
5.3.2.1.1 - a) "The Smell of Fresh Cut Grass" [Seite 116]
5.3.2.1.1.1 - (i) Acceptance of the First Olfactory Community Mark [Seite 116]
5.3.2.1.1.2 - (ii) The Controversy [Seite 117]
5.3.2.1.2 - b) "The Scent of Raspberries" [Seite 120]
5.3.2.1.2.1 - (i) Confirmation of the Registrability [Seite 120]
5.3.2.1.2.2 - (ii) Lack of Distinctive Character [Seite 120]
5.3.2.2 - 2. Clear Opposition by the European Court of Justice [Seite 121]
5.3.2.2.1 - a) The "Sieckmann" Case [Seite 121]
5.3.2.2.2 - b) Community Jurisprudence in the Light of the "Sieckmann" Case [Seite 125]
5.3.2.2.2.1 - (i) Only Few and Unsuccessful Applications [Seite 125]
5.3.2.2.2.1.1 - 1) "Coloured Matrix" (CTM-Application No. 521 914) [Seite 125]
5.3.2.2.2.1.2 - 2) "Virginia Tobacco" (CTM-Application No. 566 596) [Seite 126]
5.3.2.2.2.1.3 - 3) The "Smell of Ripe Strawberries" (CTM-Application No. 1 122 118) [Seite 127]
5.3.2.2.2.1.4 - 4) "The Smell of Vanilla" (CTM-Application No. 1 807 353) [Seite 128]
5.3.2.2.2.1.5 - 5) The Smell of Lemon (CTM-Application No. 1 254 861) [Seite 128]
5.3.2.2.2.1.6 - 6) The Taste of Oranges (CTM-Application No. 3 132 404) [Seite 129]
5.3.2.2.2.2 - (ii) A Negative Impact on National Jurisprudence [Seite 129]
5.4 - § 17 The Inherent Difficulties of Olfactory Signs [Seite 131]
5.4.1 - I. The Graphical Representation Ambiguity [Seite 131]
5.4.1.1 - 1. Discrepancy Between Legal Texts and Reality [Seite 131]
5.4.1.1.1 - a) Direct Representation v. Indirect Representation [Seite 131]
5.4.1.1.2 - b) Criticism as to Potential Constitutional Conflicts [Seite 132]
5.4.1.1.3 - c) Graphical Representation Conditioned by Flexible Interpretation of Legal Texts [Seite 134]
5.4.1.2 - 2. Review of the Graphical Representation Means [Seite 135]
5.4.1.2.1 - a) The Verbal Description [Seite 135]
5.4.1.2.1.1 - (i) Simple Smells [Seite 136]
5.4.1.2.1.1.1 - 1) Colour and Music Analogy [Seite 136]
5.4.1.2.1.1.2 - 2) Scope of Protection and Common-Sense [Seite 137]
5.4.1.2.1.2 - (ii) Complex Scents [Seite 140]
5.4.1.2.1.2.1 - 1) Limits of Verbal Description. [Seite 140]
5.4.1.2.1.2.2 - 2) Accurate Description of a Fragrance by its Name [Seite 141]
5.4.1.2.2 - b) Picture of the Fragrant Product [Seite 142]
5.4.1.2.3 - c) The Chemical Formula [Seite 142]
5.4.1.2.4 - d) Samples [Seite 144]
5.4.1.2.4.1 - (i) Invalid Means of Graphic Representation [Seite 144]
5.4.1.2.4.2 - (ii) Practical Issues [Seite 145]
5.4.1.2.5 - e) Modern Smell Recording Methods [Seite 146]
5.4.2 - II. Distinctiveness Issue for Fragrances [Seite 147]
5.4.2.1 - 1. The Smell, Substance or Signature? [Seite 147]
5.4.2.2 - 2. Generic Fragrances [Seite 149]
5.5 - § 18 Conclusion of Part 3 [Seite 150]
6 - Part 4: Fragrances and Copyright [Seite 151]
6.1 - § 19 Copyright Protection [Seite 151]
6.1.1 - I. Definition [Seite 151]
6.1.1.1 - 1. Origin and Purpose [Seite 151]
6.1.1.2 - 2. Copyright /Authors' Rights [Seite 152]
6.1.2 - II. Application [Seite 152]
6.1.2.1 - 1. Legal Basis [Seite 152]
6.1.2.2 - 2. Copyright Conditions [Seite 153]
6.1.2.2.1 - a) Non-Exhaustive Legal Framing [Seite 153]
6.1.2.2.2 - b) Existence of a Perceptible Form [Seite 154]
6.1.2.2.3 - c) Originality [Seite 155]
6.1.2.3 - 3. A Generous Protection [Seite 156]
6.2 - § 20 Chronology of Fragrances and Copyright Case Law [Seite 157]
6.2.1 - I. Short Overview [Seite 157]
6.2.2 - II. 1974- 1999: First Hesitant Decisions [Seite 158]
6.2.2.1 - 1. 3 July 1975: Rochas v. de Laire [Seite 158]
6.2.2.2 - 2. 6 June 1997: Kenzo and Tamaris v. Parfums Via Paris [Seite 160]
6.2.2.3 - 3. 28 June 2000: Clarins v. Batignolles and Pierre Cattier [Seite 161]
6.2.2.4 - 4. 24 Sept. 1999: Mugler v. Molinard [Seite 162]
6.2.3 - III. 2003-2006: A Succession of Favourable Decisions in France [Seite 164]
6.2.3.1 - 1. 26 May 2004: L'Oréal v. Bellure [Seite 164]
6.2.3.2 - 2. 4 June 2004: BPI v. Bellure et Eva France [Seite 165]
6.2.3.3 - 3. 17 Sept. 2004: BPI v. Bellure and Euro Media [Seite 166]
6.2.3.4 - 4. 23 May 2006: BPI v. Senteur Mazal [Seite 167]
6.2.4 - IV. 2006: Cassation Quash and Divergent Decisions of European Higher Instances [Seite 168]
6.2.4.1 - 1. 13 June 2006: Nejla Bsiri-Barbir v. Haarmann-Reimer [Seite 168]
6.2.4.2 - 2. 16 June 2006: Lancôme v. Kecofa [Seite 169]
6.2.5 - V. 2006-2007: Clear Resistance of Lower French Courts [Seite 171]
6.2.5.1 - 1. 28 Nov. 2006: L'Oréal v. Bellure [Seite 171]
6.2.5.2 - 2. 14 Feb. 2007: BPI v. Senteur Mazal [Seite 171]
6.2.5.3 - 3. 13 Sept. 2007: Lancôme v. Argeville [Seite 172]
6.2.5.4 - VI. 2008-2009: Double Confirmation of Cassation's Position [Seite 173]
6.2.5.5 - 1. 1 July 2008: BPI v. Senteur Mazal [Seite 173]
6.2.5.6 - 2. 22 Jan. 2009: Lancôme v. Argeville [Seite 173]
6.2.6 - VII. 2009-2010: Resistance at Any Cost [Seite 173]
6.2.6.1 - 1. 6 April 2009: Lancôme v. Patrice Farque [Seite 173]
6.2.6.2 - 2. 30 April 2009: BPI v. Coscentra Sales et Autres [Seite 174]
6.2.6.3 - 3. 22 Oct. 2009: L'Oréal v. Bellure [Seite 174]
6.2.6.4 - 4. 20 May 2010: BPI v. Millenium Diffusion [Seite 175]
6.2.6.5 - 5. 10 December 2010: Lancôme v. Argeville [Seite 176]
6.2.7 - VIII. 2012-2013: Judgement and Condamnation!? [Seite 177]
6.2.7.1 - 1. 11 April 2001 and 10 December 2013: Lancôme v. Patrice Farque [Seite 177]
6.2.7.2 - 2. 11 April 2014: Lancôme Parfums et Beauté & Cie et a.c./Pin (Pirate-Parfum) [Seite 179]
6.3 - § 21 Olfactory Form and Implicit Copyright Requirements [Seite 180]
6.3.1 - I. Non-Exhaustive Legal Framing and Intention of Legislation [Seite 180]
6.3.2 - II. Perceptibility of the Olfactory Form [Seite 183]
6.3.2.1 - 1. Stability of the Olfactory Form [Seite 183]
6.3.2.2 - 2. Objective Description of the Olfactory Form [Seite 185]
6.3.3 - III. Determination and Pitfalls of Originality [Seite 187]
6.3.3.1 - 1. Personal Imprint [Seite 187]
6.3.3.2 - 2. Novelty [Seite 188]
6.3.3.3 - 3. Success [Seite 189]
6.3.3.4 - 4. Creative Process [Seite 190]
6.4 - § 22 Is an Olfactory Form a Work of Intellect? [Seite 191]
6.4.1 - I. Intellectual Activity and Know-How in Perfumery [Seite 191]
6.4.1.1 - 1. Perfume and Music [Seite 191]
6.4.1.2 - 2. Perfume and Culinary Recipes [Seite 193]
6.4.1.3 - 3. Perfume and Industrial Environment [Seite 195]
6.4.1.4 - 4. Chemists or Artists? [Seite 196]
6.4.2 - II. The Ambivalent Position of the Cour de Cassation [Seite 199]
6.4.2.1 - 1. A Devious Reasoning? [Seite 199]
6.4.2.1.1 - a) Introduction of a Preliminary Obstacle [Seite 199]
6.4.2.1.2 - b) Arbitrary Exclusion of a Style [Seite 200]
6.4.2.1.3 - c) Incontestable Interaction of Art and Know-How [Seite 202]
6.4.2.2 - 2. Or a Wise Decision? [Seite 203]
6.4.2.2.1 - a) Fear of Consequences [Seite 203]
6.4.2.2.2 - b) Limits of Chemical Senses [Seite 204]
6.4.2.2.3 - c) Applicability to Fragrances Opens a Wide Way [Seite 205]
6.4.2.2.3.1 - (i) Dangers of a Too Welcoming Right [Seite 205]
6.4.2.2.3.2 - (ii) Unpleasant Smells [Seite 206]
6.4.2.2.3.3 - (iii) Other Sensorial Creations [Seite 207]
6.4.2.2.4 - d) Legal Consequences for the Fragrance Industry [Seite 208]
6.4.2.2.5 - e) Economic Repercussions [Seite 211]
6.5 - § 23 Conclusion of Part 4 [Seite 212]
6.6 - § 24 Recapitulation and Final Summary [Seite 213]
6.6.1 - I. Recapitulation [Seite 213]
6.6.1.1 - 1. Mitigated Relevance of Patent Protection for Olfactory Inventions [Seite 213]
6.6.1.2 - 2. The Unlucky Fate of Olfactory Marks [Seite 214]
6.6.1.3 - 3. The Ambivalent Negation of Olfactory Works [Seite 216]
6.6.2 - II. Final Summary [Seite 216]
7 - Bibliography [Seite 222]