CHAPTER II.
Table of Contents The Caboceer's Kindness to my Servant-Presents-Names of Caboceer, &c.-Granite Mountains-Tanks-The Aditay-Soil-The Tawee-Mountains-Grain and Vegetables-The Zoglogbo Mountain-Reception by the Caboceer of Zoglogbo-Ascent of the Mountain-Cotton-trees-Mountain-pass-Singular Situation of the Town-Houses-Dahoman Political Agent-Probable Origin of the Mountain-Kpaloko Mountain-Ignorance, assumed or real, of the Neighbouring Country by the Natives-The Dabadab Mountains-Superstition-Singular Method of conveying Cattle-Cruelty to the Brute Creation-Difficult Descent-Agriculture and Manufactures-Height of the Mountains-Death of Three Kings at Zoglogbo-Names of the Caboceer, &c.-Reception at Baffo-Costume of Caboceer and his Wife-His Principal Wives-Beautiful Birds-Gigantic Trees-Parasitical Plants-Singular Tree-Soil-Grain, Fruits, &c.-Cattle-Market-day, and Bustle of the Caboceer-Goods exposed for Sale-Rival Caboceers-Game-Pigeon-trap-Trial of Skill-Dog poisoned-Increasing Illness of my Servant-The Caboceer's principal Cook.
Sunday, July 13th.-Early in the morning the caboceer again sent me plenty of provisions for myself and people, and showed great kindness to Maurice, my white servant, using every means to induce him to partake of some food, bringing amongst other dishes one made of meal and water boiled together, sweetened with honey, and about the consistence of thin gruel. This composition is used as we do tea in England, but is of course much more substantial. I relished it very much. My poor servant also partook of a considerable portion, but he could not rally, having lost all the courage of which he had so often boasted. The caboceer then desired us to proceed again to the market-place, where we found two fine bullocks tied to a tree; one was a present to the King of Dahomey, and the other to myself.
After going through the usual compliments on either side, we marched on our journey till we came to the gates on the north-east of the town, where several of the principal officers of the staff of the caboceer's household approached him, apparently in great anxiety, whispering something to the caboceer. After this, the captain of my guard communicated to me that the caboceer of Paweea begged that I would honour himself and head men so far, as to enter their names in my book. This is, in all places in the Dahoman kingdom, considered the highest honour that can possibly be conferred upon them. To this request I readily acceded; and in a short time had all their names registered in my fetish-book, as they called it. After entering the names, as given by the caboceer's principal officer, I was very shrewdly asked to call each individual by their name, as this was considered a puzzler for me; but when they found that I called the roll correctly, they all seemed surprised and delighted. A report to the same effect soon spread over the greater part of the Mahee country. We now took our final departure from the town of Paweea.
I here record the names of the head men according to my Journal:-
Caboceer's name Terrasso-Weea. 1st Head man Adah. 2d do. Chaaoulong. 4th do. Daowdie. 5th do. Avamagbadjo. 6th Head Musician Hawsoo-Agwee.
[2] The names of Mayho's traders from Abomey, who treated myself and people with provisions and peto at Paweea[3] were:-
Tossau.
Yakie.
Bowka.
Adassie.
Howta.
Kossau.
Nookodoo.
We now passed through the gate, which is very strong. The walls of the town are very thick, and are composed of reddish-coloured clay. Close to the gates is the weekly market-place, held under several large trees, which afford a grateful shade from the sun, as well as a temporary protection from the rain. In the whole of the Mahee country which I have yet visited, I find that the weekly markets are held without the walls, to prevent as much as possible strangers entering the town. The daily markets are seldom attended by any except their own people, principally for a mutual exchange of goods of native manufacture.
About nine A.M. we recommenced our journey, the path bearing N.E., and at one mile N. 35° E. I noticed the chain of mountains running N.E. and S.W., distant about four miles, and bearing north from Paweea. The country round, however, is level, and studded with palm and other trees. In the distance, the immense blocks of granite appeared stratified, or divided into perpendicular sections, but upon a nearer approach were found to be only marks left by the running down of the water which accumulates in naturally formed basins or tanks on the tops, apparently formed by the heavy rains acting powerfully on the softer parts of the rock. From the excessive heat, this water soon becomes foul, and the first succeeding rains cause an overflow, marking the rock in dark streaks, and giving it the appearance I have stated.
At a mile and a half, bearing north, the soil became gravelly, studded with trees. At two miles and a half, bearing again north, we crossed the brook Aditay, running eastward, over a rocky bottom of blue granite. This beautiful clear stream is, on an average, during the season only two feet deep and six wide. It is a permanent stream, capable of propelling machinery. At three miles and a half, the bearing changed to E. N. E., with clear springs, impregnated with iron. The temperature was 64° Fahrenheit. The land is still level, and the soil of the dark colour of decayed vegetation. At five miles we crossed the river Tawee, running east. This river is wider than the last, with a gravelly bed; current less rapid, but also capable of turning machinery.
At seven miles I observed two mountains of considerable magnitude, and very picturesque, distant from the path two miles, and bearing N. 35° W. The land is beautifully cultivated along the foot of the mountains. The drilling system is followed here with the corn, both in the Dahoman and Mahee countries, and with all sorts of grain, as well as with the sweet potato; but yams are planted in mounds about three feet in height, of a conical form. In this part, however, the yams are inferior generally to those grown on the coast, being what are called water-yams, which are much softer than those found near Whydah. Four different sorts of maize, or Indian corn, are grown here, the smallest of which produces four crops in twelve months. The Guinea corn is also very abundant, as well as another grain which grows about the same height. This grain very much resembles mustard-seed.
At ten miles, we arrived at the foot of the mountain of Zoglogbo, a splendid specimen, although not more than eighteen hundred feet high on the south-east side. We halted at a small kroom at its foot, in the market-place, where I changed my dress at the desire of the captain of my guard, and put on my regimentals to receive the caboceer of Zoglogbo. I had scarcely finished, when he arrived with his retinue. He is a remarkably fine old man, apparently about sixty years of age, and of a very venerable appearance. He is nearly six feet high, and altogether of a noble and graceful figure. He approached within about five yards of the place where I was seated, by the side of the caboceer or captain of my guard, when, before speaking a word, he, together with his head men and attendants, prostrated themselves, throwing dust on their heads, and rubbing their arms with the same. My own caboceer next prostrated himself, going through similar forms of humility. Both parties afterwards remained on their knees, and delivered the King's message respecting the King's stranger, as they constantly called me. We then drank water with each other, previous to the introduction of rum, of which our new and venerable friend Kpatchie seemed very fond.
We now proceeded to ascend the mountain by a narrow fissure or fracture nearly perpendicular, passing in our ascent many very large cotton-trees, dispersed irregularly in the different crevices of the rock. Numbers of large monkeys of different species were playing amongst the boughs, but they were rather wild, being hunted for their flesh, which is used here for food. The passage up the side of the mountain is so narrow, as only to admit of one man passing at a time, and very steep and difficult, on account of the many blocks of stone which impede the ascent. It would have been impossible for me to ascend with my shoes on, had not the old caboceer of the mountain walked in front and given me his hand, and another person pushed at my back, as occasion required.
After a somewhat toilsome though romantic journey, we arrived at the gates of the town, which were of very thick planks of seven inches, strongly barred with iron. After passing the gates the path was much easier and not so steep, from the fissure not being filled so high, so that the top of the fissure was far above the head, apparently above twenty yards. After passing a little distance farther we came upon the town, which is situated in a basin, or crater, formed in the centre of the top of the mountain. Round the outer edge of this immense basin are thrown tremendous blocks of various sizes, underneath which many houses are built. Although these blocks are placed on each other in such a tottering position, the houses in the centre of the town are erected with considerable taste and regularity. The...
