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List of Contributors xi
Series Foreword xv
Introduction xvii
Acknowledgments xix
1 Coastal Storm Definition 1Mitchell Harley
1.1 Introduction 1
1.1.1 The challenge of defining coastal storms 4
1.1.2 A general coastal storm definition 7
1.1.3 Approaches to assessing coastal storminess 8
1.2 Synoptic systems and coastal storms 9
1.2.1 Tropical cyclones 9
1.2.2 Extra-tropical cyclones 10
1.2.3 Storm surge 11
1.3 Statistical approaches to identifying coastal storms 12
1.3.1 Coastal storm events from wave time-series 12
1.3.2 Coastal storm events from water-level time-series 15
1.3.3 Indicators of coastal storm severity 16
1.4 Conclusion 18
References 19
2 Hydrodynamics Under Storm Conditions 23Xavier Bertin, Maitane Olabarrieta and Robert McCall
2.1 General introduction 23
2.2 Storm surges 23
2.2.1 Introduction 23
2.2.2 Governing equations 24
2.3 Hydrodynamics of the surf zone during storms 31
2.3.1 Introduction 31
2.3.2 Longshore currents 31
2.3.3 Bed return flows 32
2.3.4 Infragravity waves 33
2.3.5 Swash zone dynamics 35
2.4 Conclusions and future challenges 38
Acknowledgements 38
References 39
3 Sediment Transport Under Storm Conditions on Sandy Beaches 45Troels Aagaard and Aart Kroon
3.1 Introduction 45
3.2 Morphological consequences of coastal storms 46
3.3 Sediment transport processes during storms 48
3.4 Observations of sediment transport on the upper shoreface during storm events 53
3.5 Observations of sediment transport on the lower shoreface during storm events 58
3.6 Conclusions 60
Acknowledgements 60
References 60
4 Examples of Storm Impacts on Barrier Islands 65Nathaniel Plant, Kara Doran and Hilary Stockdon
4.1 Introduction 65
4.2 Barrier island response to storms 66
4.3 Quantifying the changes due to specific storms 70
4.4 Resilience 75
4.5 Summary 76
Acknowledgements 77
References 77
5 Storm Impacts on the Morphology and Sedimentology of Open-coast Tidal Flats 81Ping Wang and Jun Cheng
5.1 Introduction 81
5.2 Sedimentologic characteristics 83
5.3 Erosion-deposition processes and morphodynamics of open-coast tidal flat 88
5.4 Conclusions 96
References 96
6 Storm Impacts on Cliffed Coastlines 99Sue Brooks and Tom Spencer
6.1 Introduction 99
6.2 Methodologies and their application 104
6.3 Storminess and the cliff record 106
6.4 Case study: Soft rock cliff geology and responses to storms 110
6.5 Modelling shoreline retreat for cliffed coasts and the incorporation of storminess 115
6.6 Future storm impacts on clifflines under accelerated sea-level rise and changing storminess 117
6.7 Conclusions 119
Acknowledgements 119
References 119
7 Storms in Coral Reefs 127Ana Vila-Concejo and Paul Kench
7.1 Introduction 127
7.2 Geomorphic units of reefs 129
7.2.1 Reefs as ecomorphodynamic structures 130
7.2.2 Unique interactions of storm waves with coral reefs 132
7.3 Storms on the forereef: Role of spurs and grooves 134
7.3.1 Destructive effects of storms in the forereef and spur and groove 135
7.3.2 Constructive effects of storms in the forereef 136
7.4 Storms on the reef flats: Development of rubble flats and rubble spits 136
7.4.1 Waves on the reef flats 136
7.4.2 Destructive effects of storms on reef flats 136
7.4.3 Constructive effects of storms on reef flats 137
7.5 Storms on the backreef: Sand aprons, reef islands and beaches 139
7.5.1 Sand aprons 139
7.5.2 Reef islands 139
7.6 Conclusion 145
Acknowledgements 145
References 145
8 Storm Clustering and Beach Response 151Nadia Sénéchal, Bruno Castelle and Karin R. Bryan
8.1 Introduction 151
8.2 Storm clustering: Genesis and definitions 153
8.2.1 Genesis 153
8.2.2 Definitions 154
8.3 Approaches used to assess storm clustering impact on coasts 156
8.3.1 Data collection 156
8.3.2 Numerical models 157
8.4 Beach response to storm cluster 159
8.4.1 Bar dynamics under storm clustering 159
8.4.2 Morphological feedback 160
8.4.3 The dynamic equilibrium concept 162
8.4.4 Water level 164
8.4.5 Recovery periods 165
8.5 Conclusions 167
References 167
9 Overwash Processes: Lessons from Fieldwork and Laboratory Experiments 175Ana Matias and Gerhard Masselink
9.1 Introduction 175
9.1.1 Overwash definition 175
9.1.2 Occurrence of overwash 177
9.1.3 Relevance of overwash 180
9.2 Methods to study overwash processes 180
9.2.1 Fieldwork measurements 180
9.2.2 Laboratory experiments 181
9.3 Hydrodynamic processes during overwash 183
9.3.1 Oceanographic conditions 183
9.3.2 Hydraulics of overwash flows 183
9.4 Morpho-sedimentary dynamics by overwash processes 185
9.4.1 Morphological changes induced by overwash 185
9.4.2 Morphodynamic processes during overwash 187
9.5 Conclusion 189
Acknowledgements 190
References 190
10 Modeling the Morphological Impacts of Coastal Storms 195Ap van Dongeren, Dano Roelvink, Robert McCall, Kees Nederhoff and Arnold van Rooijen
10.1 Introduction 195
10.1.1 Empirical models 196
10.1.2 Process-based models 197
10.1.3 Process-model applications 201
10.1.4 Operational models 209
10.2 Outlook 209
Acknowledgements 210
References 210
11 Preparing for the Impact of Coastal Storms: A Coastal Manager-oriented Approach 217José Jiménez, Clara Armaroli and Eva Bosom
11.1 Introduction 217
11.2 Coastal vulnerability assessment framework 219
11.2.1 General framework 219
11.2.2 How to characterize storm-induced hazards 219
11.2.3 How to measure the vulnerability 221
11.2.4 How to select the probability to be analyzed 222
11.2.5 The Catalonia coastal vulnerability assessment framework 223
11.3 Coastal early warning systems 227
11.3.1 Generalities 227
11.3.2 Coastal EWSs 228
11.3.3 The Emilia-Romagna coastal early warning system 228
11.4 Conclusion 234
Acknowledgements 235
References 235
12 Assessing Storm Erosion Hazards 241Roshanka Ranasinghe and David Callaghan
12.1 Introduction 241
12.2 The diagnostic conundrum 242
12.3 Quantifying storm erosion volumes for coastal management/planning 243
12.3.1 Coastal profile model application with Extrapolated Wave Exceedance Characteristics (EWEC) 243
12.3.2 Coastal profile model application with the Synthetic Design Storm (SDS) approach 245
12.3.3 The Joint Probability Method (JPM) approach 246
12.3.4 Corbella and Stretch (CS) approach 248
12.4 Application of storm erosion volume estimates in coastal management/planning 250
12.5 Conclusions and recommendations 251
Acknowledgments 254
References 254
Conclusions and Future Perspectives 257
Index 259
Mitchell Harley
Water Research Laboratory, School of Civil and Environmental Engineering, UNSW Sydney, Manly Vale, NSW, Australia
Storms represent nature in one of its most energetic and violent states. The word "storm" is synonymous with images of destruction - strong winds lashing at trees and buildings, intense precipitation flooding towns or dumping meters of snow, large seas eroding beaches and coastal properties, and rapid surges in ocean levels inundating entire islands and vast lowland areas. At the same time, storms are essential to human life and an integral part of the global weather and natural ecosystems. Storms help break droughts by delivering much needed water to drought-stricken areas, thereby recharging reservoirs, river systems and underground aquifers. Many ecosystems are also reliant on the episodic arrival of large storms for their rejuvenation after extended periods of calm, stable conditions (e.g. the flushing of hypersaline lagoons due to hurricanes, Tunnell, 2002).
Globally, storms rank as one of the deadliest of all natural hazards (International Federation of Red Cross and Red Crescent Societies, 2014). In the decade spanning the years 2004-2013, storms were responsible for over 180,000 deaths worldwide - second in terms of lives lost only to those of earthquakes and tsunamis (Table 1.1). Flooding, including marine flooding as a result of waves and storm surge, were meanwhile responsible for over 60,000 deaths worldwide and rank fourth on this list. In the United States, storms have contributed to the vast majority of monetary losses resulting from natural hazards over the last half century. Hurricanes and tropical storms alone have overwhelmingly been the most costly of all natural hazards, having resulted in a total of US$ 267 billion in monetary losses between the years 1960 and 2014 (Figure 1.1). Severe weather, flooding, tornadoes and miscellaneous coastal hazards (loosely defined as hazards including rip currents, coastal flooding, coastal erosion, strong winds, etc.) have also caused combined losses of US$ 364 billion (Hazards and Vulnerability Research Institute, 2015).
Table 1.1 Total number of people killed globally by natural disasters between 2004 and 2013 according to disaster type
* includes wave and surge events
(Source: International Federation of Red Cross and Red Crescent Societies, 2014, p. 226)
Figure 1.1 Total hazard losses in the United States (1960-2014) by hazard type
(Source: Hazards and Vulnerability Research Institute, 2015).
There are few regions more vulnerable to storms than the narrow ribbon of the Earth's surface that constitutes the coastal zone. Situated at the interface between land and large water bodies such as oceans, seas and lakes, the coastal zone is a region in constant flux as consolidated and unconsolidated sediments are constantly shaped and re-shaped by Earth's forces. As these forces - winds, waves and currents - interact with coastal sediments, energy is dissipated to such a degree that under normal everyday conditions, their short-term effects on the adjacent coastal hinterland are minimal. During destructive storm conditions, however, the elevated energy and/or water levels may well be beyond the capacity of the coastal zone to dissipate, potentially exposing the backshore and coastal hinterland to unusually large forces and hazardous conditions.
Given the low-lying nature as well as the sheer density of people living close to the coast (with an estimated 23% of the world's population and population densities greater than three times the global average, Small & Nicholls, 2003), the exposure to elevated water levels, waves and currents that may occur during storm conditions can have devastating effects. Some historical examples of extreme storms striking the coast include the 1900 hurricane in Galveston, Texas that claimed the lives of an estimated 8000-12,000 people and is recognized even today as the deadliest natural disaster in the United States' history (Blake & Gibney, 2011). In 1953, a large storm surge in the North Sea inundated tens of thousands of hectares of coastal hinterland in the Netherlands, Belgium and the United Kingdom and claimed over 2500 lives. In Bangladesh, the Bhola cyclone of 1970 is considered one of the worst natural disasters of all time, generating a 10 m storm surge that killed up to 500,000 people and left a huge toll on the country's population and economy. Such devastation was repeated in the same region 21 years later, when another tropical cyclone caused a surge that extended 160 km inland and resulted in 138,000 deaths (Haque, 1997).
In more recent years, coastal storms have received considerable attention as access to news and information via the Internet has grown exponentially and the world has become more aware of the dangers associated with climate change. A particularly significant event that has remained in the conscience of many people was that of Hurricane Katrina that struck the Louisiana coastline in 2005. Hurricane Katrina demonstrated that even in an age of significant advancements in scientific understanding, technology and computer forecasts, nations can still be caught off-guard by the arrival of coastal storms. Hurricane Katrina also highlighted that when coastal storms do occur, it is often the most vulnerable people of a society that are affected the most (Laska & Morrow, 2006). Some other recent examples of coastal storms include Cyclone Sidr in Bangladesh (2007), the Xynthia cyclone in France (2010), Hurricane Sandy in the Caribbean, New Jersey and New York (2012), Typhoon Haiyan in the Philippines (2013), the 2013/2014 winter storms in the United Kingdom and Tropical Cyclone Pam in Vanuatu (2015). Figure 1.2 indicates a rare occurrence of three concurrent tropical cyclones close to the coastline that was observed in southern hemisphere waters in March 2015.
Figure 1.2 A composite image taken from the NASA of three tropical cyclones occurring simultaneously in the southern hemisphere in March, 2015. Tropical Cyclone Pam to the right of the image struck the island of Vanuatu and is considered one of the worst natural disasters in the island's history
(Source: NASA Earth Observatory: http://earthobservatory.nasa.gov/).
Considering their destructiveness and relevance to today's world, surprisingly few books have dealt specifically with the subject of coastal storms and no overarching definition presently exists to assist in their identification. Indeed a degree of confusion surrounding the use of the term coastal storm is evident. An inspection of Table 1.1, for example, indicates that coastal storms fall into the category of both storms and floods, but are not recognized as a category on their own. This is in spite of the fact that the processes governing the formation and development of coastal storms are very different from those of, for instance, river floods. Figure 1.1, meanwhile, highlights the variety of ways in which coastal storms are classified in the commonly-used SHELDUS database for US disaster statistics, with hurricane/tropical storms and coastal hazards treated separately.
As this chapter discusses, the lack of clarity when it comes to defining coastal storms stems from the complexities surrounding the ways in which storm energy is generated, transported and interacts with the coastline. A robust definition of a coastal storm is, however, necessary if we want to answer important societal questions, such as:
This chapter begins by first summarizing the challenges of defining coastal storms. These challenges are then taken into consideration to form a general qualitative coastal storm definition that can be applied to all coastlines. Section 1.2 follows by describing the most common synoptic conditions associated with coastal storms. Section 1.3 then presents the various approaches taken to identify coastal storm events from observational records and summarizes ways of quantifying coastal storm severity.
The term storm is defined as:...
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