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So what is a 'problem', and why do 'problems' arise? A 'problem' may be a minor irritation which inconveniences you, or something which prevents you from achieving certain goals - or it could be a serious behaviour that puts lives at risk.
From your horse's point of view, his actions may be a perfectly sensible response to a situation he finds himself in. The fact that they cause difficulties for you isn't his fault, and may not be yours either; but it is your responsibility as owner or carer to try to understand why he behaves as he does, and to help him learn how to cope with things he finds challenging in a way which is acceptable and safe for both of you. Failure to do so may lead to an escalation of his misbehaviour, and will certainly make it difficult for you to develop a true partnership.
Horses are not difficult on purpose: they do not intentionally set out to annoy us. On the contrary, the fact that they allow us to climb on their backs at all, let alone perform the physically and psychologically demanding tasks we ask of them, is a testament to their willingness and desire to co-operate as much as to their courage.
If you encounter any difficulties it is therefore important to consider all possible reasons for them; furthermore, as well as involving a certain amount of honest and objective self-assessment, it's also helpful to have a basic understanding of what makes your horse tick, both as an equine and as an individual.
Like dogs, the modern-day horse is a product of human intervention as well as of evolution, with intensive breeding for specific qualities giving rise to a whole range of different breeds. But horses have changed far less than our canine friends, partly because they have only been domesticated for around five to six thousand years as compared to around thirty thousand for dogs, and have not been subject to such constant and close human companionship.
It is also due to the fact that so many of the physical and behavioural traits which originally helped the horse survive - such as his sensitivity, being quick to react, co-operative, and able to gallop and jump - are also a key part of what makes him so good at the things we want to do with him. On the whole, horses cope remarkably well with the challenges of the modern-day environment, but domestication can sometimes be a thin veneer, and the very characteristics which make him so suited to our purposes can also underlie behaviours we consider undesirable.
The horse's instinctive responses might be described as the five 'F's: flight, fight, freeze, faint and fool around. Regardless of where an animal is on the food chain, the majority of animals prefer to respond to fear by running away. It is not conducive to survival to engage in conflict, since the risk of injury and even death is increased through fighting. Only if the ability to flee is inhibited for any reason will the majority of animals, including people, either go into 'freeze' or respond with displays of aggression (fight).
When a horse is in 'freeze' his head will be raised, his nostrils may be flared and his eyes will be wide. You may also notice that his heart rate is elevated and his body is tense. Trying to push or beat a horse out of freeze can lead to an explosive reaction, risking injury to both horse and handler. It is far safer, as well as kinder, to encourage him to move a little by stroking along the lead line (or one rein if you are mounted) so as to gently turn his head, or to lower his head without forcing it down (see Exercise 'Stroking the Reins' - see Key to Exercises). He will probably jog or move off a little sharply for the first few strides and may go back into freeze after a couple of steps, but if you stay calm, and keep encouraging him to release through his body with your hands and/or your own body, he will recover more quickly.
A horse that is defensive in his behaviour is not being 'dominant', but is under duress and communicating high levels of concern. If pushed, he may 'faint'. This fear response can be triggered by forceful handling - when loading, for example - and some people sadly believe that the horse is lying down because he 'knows' that by dropping to the floor he cannot be forced into the lorry. 'Faint' is an indicator of extreme levels of stress, and no horse should ever be pushed to this point.
'Fool around' is often misinterpreted as the horse being 'naughty' or lacking focus. The horse may grab the lead line, toss his head around, paw the ground, fidget and so on. It is usually triggered by confusion because the horse is struggling with the situation, but it can be due to anticipation of something either pleasurable or worrying, and is often accompanied by areas of tension through the body. Even if, for example, your horse is working well initially or is enjoying being groomed, if he starts to fool around, stop what you are doing. You may have worked him for too long - even though you may have considered the session brief - or have touched a sensitive area, or he may have become distracted because he did not understand what was being asked of him. Look for the pattern: there will be one, and by noting when and why your horse starts to lose focus or change his behaviour, you can make any necessary alterations to the way you handle and train him.
Modern-day horses may not look much like their distant ancestors, but their senses - vision, hearing, taste and smell, and touch - remain much the same, and are designed to aid in survival. The way a horse perceives the world around him can differ slightly from the way in which we do, and may affect his response to the environments and situations he finds himself in.
Eyesight is one of the horse's most important senses with regard to warning of potential danger. The positioning of the eyes to the side of the head provides good all-round vision - about 350 degrees, with 'blind spots' created by the head and body just in front, at the back of the head, and immediately to the rear - hence the advice always to approach from the side, so as to avoid startling him.
If something seen with one eye catches the horse's attention, by turning his head to look at it he can use binocular vision (both eyes at the same time), which improves his depth perception. But once the object is within three or four feet, the length of his nose begins to obscure it, and to continue looking at it he needs to turn his head again and observe with one eye. Visual information can be transferred from one eye to the other: nevertheless, it is often noticed that a horse will spook at an object he has already seen when passing it for the first time in the opposite direction and seeing it with the other eye.
Horses are very sensitive to movement - not just of people, animals and inanimate objects, but also of shadows moving on the ground or light reflected from the surface of water. The ability to detect motion is greater in their peripheral vision, and this, combined with a reduced ability to see in detail in this area and the wide field of vision, can explain why horses may sometimes appear to spook at nothing.
Although better than us at seeing in low light conditions, horses' eyes adjust less quickly to abrupt changes, which is why they may be reluctant to enter a dark stable or trailer, or may refuse at a show jump or cross-country fence positioned in a shady area.
Some individuals may be long- or short-sighted, and as with humans, ageing can lead to a deterioration in eyesight. The gradual loss of sight in one eye is generally coped with well - often so well that the owner doesn't realize a problem exists. Given time and good care, some horses even learn to manage well with a loss of sight in both eyes. However, horses with poor vision may be more noise-sensitive, and anyway care must also be taken to warn them of your approach through the use of your voice.
When riding, the horse's head carriage can also affect vision; when asked to work in an outline it can limit what he is able to see ahead, in the same way as your own vision is inhibited if you look downwards. If he is overbent, it decreases still more. For a horse, working in an outline requires not just correct training of his physique, but that he places great trust in the rider to keep him safe, both from possible predators and from bumping into anything.
Our own hearing range is around 20Hz-20kHz, and that of a horse is around 55Hz-33kHz: this means that he can hear some high-pitched sounds that we can't, but not some of the lower frequency ones. For example, depending on how close and loud it is, he may be able to hear, and be disturbed by, ultrasonic rodent repellers if you use this form of pest control.
Each ear can be rotated to give all-round hearing without having to move the head, and its funnel shape helps in focusing on a particular sound, just as you might cup a hand round your own ear to shut out extraneous noise to help you hear what someone is saying.
Music is often played on yards, and studies have shown that it can be beneficial in reducing stress in elephants in zoos, soothing dogs in rescue shelters, and calming newly weaned foals. But avoid leaving radios on constantly, and choose the sort of music which horses show definite preferences for - rhythmic and calming instrumental melodies. Consider volume as well: sounds can be muffled to a certain extent by pinning the...
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