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There are lots of different types of oil that are safe and beneficial for the skin, so you can use them as the base for your skin- and hair-care products. Try to find a cold-pressed, organic version. This is a list of oils that are commonly used.
Apricot-kernel oil is produced by pressing the kernels from apricots (Prunus armeniaca). As the oil resembles the fats that are naturally present in your skin, it is easily absorbed. This oil contains vitamins C and E, along with the unsaturated fatty acids omega 6 and 9 to soften and strengthen your skin.
Almond oil is a mild oil that is produced by pressing the fruits (almonds) of the almond tree (Prunus dulcis). It contains antioxidants and vitamins A, D and E. Particularly suitable for dry, sensitive skin, but it can be used on all skin types. It will combat premature skin aging and promote skin elasticity. The almonds are ground before being pressed for the oil, which is then filtered and bleached.
Argan oil is extracted from the kernel of the fruits growing on the Moroccan argan tree (Argania spinosa). The oil nourishes, hydrates and protects your skin, and it also contains antioxidants to combat premature skin aging. You can also apply it to your hair for a lustrous shine.
Avocado oil is extracted from the flesh of avocados, which are the fruits of the avocado tree (Persea americana). The oil is used in beauty products as it is rich in unsaturated fatty acids, which are both hydrating and nourishing.
Borage oil is pressed from the seeds of the herb borage (Borago officinalis). It is high in gamma linolenic acid (an essential omega fatty acid) and has many other excellent properties for your skin, including nourishing it, boosting its elasticity and moisture content, stimulating the production of sebum and encouraging it to repair itself. It combats the symptoms of eczema, acne and psoriasis, replenishes dry skin, reduces wrinkles, combats premature skin aging and strengthens brittle nails and hair.
The olive tree (Olea europaea subsp. sylvestris) bears fruits that can be pressed to make olive oil. Use a light, organic olive oil for optimal absorption through the skin.
Prickly pear oil is a precious oil that is extracted from the black seeds of the prickly pear cactus (Opuntia ficus-indica). Rich in unsaturated fatty acids, vitamin E and minerals, it nourishes, hydrates and strengthens your skin, improves its texture and protects against premature skin aging.
Castor oil is extracted from the seeds of the green fruits of the castor bean plant (Ricinus communis). It is packed with omega 9 fatty acids that nourish your hair, follicles and scalp, stimulating the growth of hair, beards, eyelashes and eyebrows.
The sea buckthorn oil, available commercially, is pressed from the berries and seeds of the sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides), but you can also make your own oil by macerating sea buckthorn berries in oil (see pages 12-13). Sea buckthorn oil contains vitamin A and stimulates cell renewal in your skin.
Grape-seed oil is pressed from the seeds of grapes grown on grape vines (Vitis vinifera). Choose cold-pressed oil whenever you can, so that you get as many nutrients as possible from this strengthening and deeply nourishing oil, which is ideal for sensitive skin.
Jojoba oil is a liquid wax that is extracted from the seeds of the jojoba bush (Simmondsia chinensis). It is yellow when pressed but is often bleached before being sold. Jojoba oil is very similar to sebum produced by your glands, so it is hugely beneficial for your skin, cleansing it and preventing it from producing excess sebum. Your hair will also love it.
Coconut oil is pressed or extracted from copra, which is the dried, white flesh of the coconut, the fruit of the coconut palm (Cocos nucifera). The oil melts at 24-26°C and is liquid in hot temperatures, but tends to set in cooler climates. Coconut oil is a common ingredient in beauty products as it is packed with vitamins and minerals and nourishes, cleanses and disinfects your skin. Make sure that you buy good-quality coconut oil, ideally from a small-scale grower.
Linseed oil is cold pressed from the seed (linseed) of the flax plant (Linum usitatissimum) and contains omega 3 and 6 fatty acids, along with other unsaturated fats. The oil prevents your skin from drying out and combats premature aging - effects that are enhanced when used in combination with evening primrose and/or borage oil. Linseed mixed with water produces a gelatinous paste that reduces inflammation and draws splinters from your skin.
Moringa oil is extracted from the seeds of the Moringa oleifera; a tree that is known for its healing properties and high levels of nutrients and antioxidants. The oil is rich in vitamins A, B and C and contains minerals including iron, magnesium and zinc. It sets at temperatures below 20°C and is both anti-aging and hydrating.
Neem oil is extracted from the seeds of the olive-shaped fruits of the Asian neem tree (Azadirachta indica) as well as the fruits themselves. Neem oil is used in Asia as a medicinal oil to repel insects, counter skin infections (such as eczema) and reduce inflammation. The viscous oil is either golden, brown or reddish and has a strong, not particularly pleasant smell. It is also used as hair oil and an ingredient in shampoo.
Rosehip oil is extracted from the seeds of rosehips from the dog rose (Rosa canina) and other rose varieties. This deeply nourishing oil contains vitamin A, among other ingredients, and helps to reduce scarring, minimize stretch marks and combat premature skin aging.
Evening primrose oil is pressed from the seeds of the evening primrose (Oenothera biennis) and is rich in unsaturated fatty acids. The oil's high content of gamma-linolenic acid means it helps to reduce inflammation.
Walnut oil is cold pressed from the fruit of the walnut tree (Juglans regia) and is soothing, healing and slightly astringent. The oil reduces inflammation, benefits dry and more mature skin, and gives some protection against the sun.
Beeswax is extremely hydrating, contains vitamin A and will not block your pores, so it is an ideal base for creams. It is also anti-inflammatory and antibacterial, so it is effective against breakouts and blackheads, plus it nourishes your scalp and hair follicles. Beeswax melts at between 62 and 65°C, but it starts to soften at 40°C, so holding it in your hand will start the process. Beeswax comes from the honeycombs in beehives. Although removing it may seem harsh, a beekeeper friend of mine told me that the honeycombs need to be cleaned annually anyway, which involves removing some of the wax. Try to buy your beeswax from a reputable, reliable beekeeper or producer. Beeswax is an animal product so it is not vegan.
Candelilla wax is a good plant-based alternative to beeswax. It is extracted from the leaves and stems of the candelilla bush (Euphorbia antisyphilitica or Euphorbia cerifera) that grows in desert areas in northern Mexico and the southwestern United States. Boiling the leaves and stems releases the wax, which is then processed further to clean it. Candelilla wax melts at 70°C, so it is slightly harder than beeswax. It can be used to thicken creams and is ideal for chapped skin and sensitive baby skin.
Carnauba wax is extracted from the leaves of the carnauba palm (Copernicia prunifera) that is native to Brazil. Beating the leaves releases the wax, which is then refined and bleached. Carnauba wax is harder than both candelilla wax and beeswax and melts at 85°C.
Shea butter is a common ingredient in beauty products. It is derived from the nuts of the African shea tree (Vitellaria paradoxa), which are dried and then processed into shea butter. Shea butter melts at 27°C, contains vitamins A and E and is used in ointments, lotions, soaps and hydrating creams.
Cocoa butter is extracted from the seed of the cacao tree (Theobroma cacao). The cacao beans are ground into a kind of fatty pulp - the cocoa mass - which is pressed to separate out raw cocoa butter and cocoa powder. The cocoa butter is sometimes refined to remove its colour. Cocoa butter melts at around 36°C (so it is classified as butter).
Wool fat (also called lanolin) is derived from sheep's wool and can sometimes be used as a base for creams. Wool fat is ideal for treating extremely dry and cracked skin. It smells of sheep - which attracts some people and puts others off. Wool fat melts at 42°C.
This jelly-like product can be used as a base for creams. As it is a byproduct of petroleum, I prefer not to use it for skin care products. Vaselines melts at between 40 and 60°C.
Pure essential oils are derived from plants, flowers and resins, although synthetic equivalents are also available. I asked Frank Bloem, perfume maker at The...
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