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Journey along one of the world's greatest rivers and catch a glimpse into the lives and cultures of the people who live along its banks The Ganges flows through northern India and Bangladesh for more than 1,500 miles before emptying into the Bay of Bengal. It is sacred to Hindus who worship Ganga, the river goddess. But it has also long been a magnet for foreigners, some seeking to unravel its mysteries and others who have come in search of plunder. In On the Ganges, George Black, who chronicled the exploration of the American West and the creation of Yellowstone National Park in Empire of Shadows, takes readers on an extraordinary journey from the glaciers of the Himalayas to the sacred city of Varanasi to the "hundred mouths" of the Ganges Delta. On the Ganges, parts of which originated from a New Yorker article published last year, introduces us to a vivid and often eccentric cast of characters who worship the river, pollute it, and flock to it from all over the world in search of enlightenment and adventure. Black encounters those who run the corrupt cremation business, workers who eke out a living in squalid factories, religious fanatics, and Brits who continue to live as if the Raj had never ended. By the end of his journey, Black has given us a memorable picture of the great river, with all its riddles and contradictions, both sacred and profane, giving the last word to a man scavenging for the gifts left by pilgrims: "There are good days and there are bad days. It all depends. Everything is in the hands of our mother, Ma Ganga."
Table of Contents
Part One: Mountains
Travelers' Tales Present At The Creation The Water Pyramid The Cow's Mouth The Temple On The Rock Cave Dwellers The Raja Of Harsil Winter Quarters Nomads Big Fish Story The Age Of Kali All You Need Is Love The Happy Escapee Good Vibrations From Ocean To Sky Going To Extremes Gateway To God Why Shiva Turned Blue Mrs. Chaurey's Glasses The Best Medicine Fizzy Whizzy
Part Two: Plains
Capstan Baba Butchers Massacre Ghat Manchester Of The East Scavengers Mothers And Children Press One For Mangos Bookworms At Barnett's Hotel Allahabadminton The Moustache Dancer The Abode Of Happiness The Traffic In Mirganj The Invisible River Desolate And Ruinous Armpit Of The Universe The View From The Train Jewel Of The Ear Sacred Fire The Spectacle Of Wood The Commission Men Ashes To Ashes Slowly-Slowly Keepers Of The Flame In The Tiger House I Now Feel I Have Seen India The Poets Of Benares The Lost Boy Ganga Fuji Raga The Mother's Lap Guru Of The World The Field Of Fulfillment Two Brothers Heritage The Forest Of Remembrance
Part Three: Delta
Bored In Bihar India's Coral Strand Easy Like Water The Impossible City Where You Are From? Women Of The Delta The Will Of Allah Fields Of Salt The Tiger Of Chandpai On The Beach Holi On The Hooghly The World Of Apu The Aging Prostitute A Walk In The Park Going Native Last Jewel In The Crown Packed And Pestilential Multiple Personalities The Bollywood Goddess The Coin Collector
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