Wellington, Manawatu, Wairarapa, Eastland & New Zealand's Hawke's Bay

Eastland is one of the least visited, most isolated and most scenic areas of New Zealand. This is an area of huge importance to the Ngati Porou - the second-largest tribe of Maori. This is a stunning part of New Zealand, an area that is largely untouched by tourists, and most New Zealanders will never make their way here. You might just feel as if you're traveling through a national park. The winding road is lined with masses of trees, and the off-shore islands jut out of the sea. On clear, calm days the turquoise water will beckon you in and, with so many safe swimming beaches, it's not a bad idea. The beaches along the way are strewn with driftwood... piles and piles of the stuff. From Whakatane, the approach to Opotiki is through seemingly endless stands of pohutukawa trees. Summertime here means the hills are on fire with the red flowers. And then there is Hawke's Bay. First, there is the Mediterranean climate, the stunning scenery, the sunshine and the coast. And then there's the wine and food; you'd better leave your diet at home. Add wilderness, in the form of hot springs, rivers and one of New Zealand's Great Walks. Home to the world's most accessible mainland gannet colony, the National Aquarium, the Art-Deco city of Napier, and the agriculturally wealthy central portion of the region, Hawke's Bay really does have all bases covered. Eastland has a decidedly Pacific Island feel - it's laid-back and relaxed and people have more than the time of day for you. I am a firm believer that travel isn't worthwhile unless you get out and talk to the folks who live in the place and nowhere is that more important than around Eastland. Take your time and spend an hour or two shooting the breeze with people. Horses are still used for transport, and a day doesn't go by when you won't see someone riding down the road with little more than a rope around their horse's neck. Wairarapa bills itself as a rural retreat and that's as good a description as any. The coastline is rugged, exposed and isolated - great for fishing, taking time out and, for the experienced, surfing. The settlements that dot the coast are centered on fishing. Driving between the small towns of the Wairarapa, you'll be in a long valley - flat, gorgeous and green. Springtime is definitely a great time to be here, when pure white lambs dot the pastures and their antics are free for the watching. And finally, Wellington. This isn't just the national capital. It's a hilly harbor town with great food, lots of museums and galleries, fantastic outdoor adventures and, at least in my opinion, more heart and soul than the other major cities. The San Francisco of New Zealand, Wellington sits on an earthquake fault, has some impossibly windy days and is vibrantly diverse. It is home to Te Papa (the Museum of New Zealand), The Royal New Zealand Ballet and the New Zealand Symphony Orchestra, and Wellington is probably the best city in New Zealand for theater. This guide focusses on these key areas of New Zealand's North Island, with complete details on what to see and do, where to stay and eat. Based on our larger guides to all of New Zealand, there are color maps and photos throughout.