What is the social merit or purpose of all those bras and panties on perfectly sculpted bodies that we see spread across billboards and magazines? Many women indulge in lingerie to please men. Yet, ever since Antiquity, women have always kept lingerie hidden away under outer garments. Thus, lingerie must be more than erotic bait. Authors Muriel Barbier and Shazia Boucher have researched iconography to explore the relationship of lingerie to society, the economy and the corridors of intimacy. They correlate lingerie with emancipation, querying whether it asserts newfound freedoms or simply adjusts to conform to changing social values. The result is a rigorous scientific rationale spiced with a zest of humour. And the tinier lingerie gets, the more scholarly attention it deserves.
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ISBN-13
978-1-78042-970-0 (9781780429700)
Schweitzer Klassifikation
1 - Contents [Seite 5]
2 - Preface [Seite 7]
3 - ntroduction [Seite 11]
4 - Underwear and fashion [Seite 15]
4.1 - Lingerie, corsetry and hosiery [Seite 17]
4.2 - How underwear began to allow the silhouette evolve [Seite 25]
4.3 - From Ancient Greece to modern woman: what have they been wearing under their clothes? [Seite 43]
4.3.1 - European women in the 15th century [Seite 43]
4.3.2 - Renaissance women [Seite 44]
4.3.3 - Women in "1900" [Seite 51]
4.4 - Colours [Seite 77]
5 - Underwear and Society [Seite 89]
5.1 - Stages of life [Seite 91]
5.1.1 - Rites of passage [Seite 91]
5.1.1.1 - Baptism [Seite 91]
5.1.1.2 - First Communion [Seite 91]
5.1.1.3 - From childhood to adolescence [Seite 93]
5.1.1.4 - Marriage [Seite 93]
5.1.1.5 - Mourning [Seite 94]
5.1.2 - The trousseau and its reflection in Society [Seite 94]
5.1.2.1 - Women's work [Seite 94]
5.1.2.2 - The rise and fall of the trousseau [Seite 97]
5.2 - Caring for linen [Seite 103]
5.2.1 - Care of raw materials [Seite 104]
5.3 - A Woman's private life and clothing [Seite 109]
5.3.1 - The nightdress [Seite 109]
5.3.2 - The negligee [Seite 109]
5.3.3 - The bedroom and private life [Seite 115]
5.3.4 - Underwear according to the season and social status [Seite 125]
5.3.5 - Clothing for children [Seite 125]
5.4 - Contradictory arguments about trousers for women and the corset [Seite 127]
5.4.1 - Trousers or bloomers [Seite 127]
5.4.2 - The corset [Seite 127]
5.5 - Sports underwear [Seite 133]
5.5.1 - Horseback riding [Seite 133]
5.5.2 - Cycling [Seite 133]
5.5.3 - Swimming [Seite 139]
5.5.4 - Dancers [Seite 139]
6 - Eroticism, seduction and fetishism [Seite 141]
6.1 - The eroticism of women's underwear [Seite 143]
6.2 - Seductive and sexy underwear [Seite 157]
6.3 - Fetishism and women's underwear: from private clubs to the catwalk [Seite 185]
7 - Economics [Seite 199]
7.1 - Lingerie manufacturing [Seite 201]
7.1.1 - How fashion was distributed [Seite 203]
7.2 - The current lingerie market [Seite 207]
7.2.1 - Distribution networks [Seite 207]
7.2.2 - Motivation to purchase [Seite 219]
7.2.3 - Communication [Seite 224]
7.2.4 - Advertising goes too far [Seite 227]
7.2.5 - Marketing [Seite 228]
7.2.6 - Some current directions for lingerie [Seite 228]
7.2.6.1 - The youth market [Seite 228]
7.3 - Underwear on top [Seite 231]
7.3.1 - Technological contributions to lingerie [Seite 231]
7.3.2 - Sportswear at the beginning of the 21st century [Seite 231]
7.3.3 - Sexy lingerie [Seite 235]
8 - Conclusion [Seite 259]
9 - Glossary [Seite 260]
9.1 - 1. TECHNICAL AND GENERAL TERMS: [Seite 260]
9.2 - 2. TERMS SPECIFIC TO UNDERWEAR: [Seite 263]
10 - Notes [Seite 268]
11 - Bibliography [Seite 270]
12 - Acknowledgements [Seite 271]