PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1
Chapter 1 Background Information 3
Geography 3, Climate 6, Natural history and conservation 6, History 8, Economy 50, People 62, Language 67, Religion 68, Culture 71
Chapter 2 Practical Information 77
When to visit 77, Highlights 77, Suggested itineraries 79, Tour operators 79, Red tape 82, Embassies and consulates 83, Getting there and away 85, Health 89, Safety 93, What to take 93, Money 93, Getting around 94, Accommodation 95, Eating and drinking 96, Nightlife 97, Shopping 98, Photography 100, Media and communications 100, Time zone 103, Cultural etiquette 103
PART TWO THE GUIDE 107
Chapter 3 Pyongyang 108
Geography 109, History 109, Getting there and away 116, Getting around 116, Where to stay 122, Where to eat and drink 124, Entertainment and nightlife 127, Shopping 127, Other practicalities 127, What to see and do 128
Chapter 4 Pyongyang to Sariwon, Kaesong and Panmunjom 153
Sariwon 153, Kaesong 158, Panmunjom and the DMZ 165
Chapter 5 Nampo, Mount Kuwol and Haeju 171
Nampo 172, Mount Kuwol 177, Haeju 179
Chapter 6 North from Pyongyang: Pyongsong and Mount Myohyang 184
Pyongsong 184, Myohyangsan 187
Chapter 7 East Coast Central: Pyongyang to Wonsan 197
Wonsan 197
Chapter 8 Wonsan to Mount Kumgang, or Kumgangsan 204
Kumgang flora and fauna 204, Kumgangsan 205
Chapter 9 East Coast to Tanchon 215
Hamhung 215, Hungnam 218, Tanchon 219, Komdok 220
Chapter 10 Northernmost Corner 223
Chongjin 226, Chilbosan 229, Rajin and Sonbong, collectively known as Rason 232, Hoeryong 239
Chapter 11 Mount Paektu/Paektusan 243
Flora and fauna 245, Getting there and away 245, Where to stay 246, What to see and do 246
Chapter 12 The Border with China and Beyond 252
Sinuiju 252, Dandong 256, South from Dandong 262, North from Dandong 262
Appendix 1 Language 271 Appendix 2 Further Information 274 Index 284
