The book explores the dandy as a cultural type across Europe and Russia from the eighteenth century through the present day. Olga Vainshtein offers a unique view on dandyism as a cultural tradition, based not merely on fashionable attire, but also as a particular lifestyle with specific standards of behaviour, bodily practices and conceptual approaches to dress. The dandy is described as the prototypical hero of the modern cult of celebrities. From clubbing manners, the techniques of virtual aristocratism, urban flaneurs and the correct way to examine people, Vainshtein walks us through optical duels and the techniques of visual assessment at social gatherings. Readers will learn about strategies of subversive behaviour found in practical jokes, the fine art of noble scandal, dry wit, bare-faced impudence and mocking politeness. Looking at dandyism as a nineteenth-century literary movement, Vainshtein examines representation of dandies in fiction. Finally, a large section is devoted to Russian and Soviet dandyism and the dandies of today.
Rezensionen / Stimmen
"Fashioning the Dandy: Style and Manners is a brilliant and fascinating book by one of the world's foremost authorities on dandyism."-Valerie Steele, Director and Chief Curator, The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, USA.
"Vainshtein's brilliant and insightful book reveals the essentially performative nature of dandyism. It's all in the subtitle: style and manners. The dandy's gestures, stance and movement, his fashionable inscrutability, his disdain, laconic wit and social provocation come vividly to life in this wide-ranging, erudite and compelling study." -Caroline Evans, Professor emerita, Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, UK.
"Starch your tie, don a dinner jacket and settle into this wonderfully erudite tour through dandyism past and present. Vainshtein marshals exceptional insight from across nineteenth-century European thought, from London to Petersburg and all points in between, as well as a modern global sensibility to this superbly written study." -Bruce Grant, Professor and Chair of Anthropology, New York University, USA.
"Acknowledging and analysing the existing canon of works on dandyism, Vainshtein deftly and intriguingly builds a new discussion and approach that provides a comprehensive interpretation of historic and contemporary Dandies, exploring the dandy's body, dress, toilet, manners and attitudes, critically presenting material previously not available in English." -Shaun Cole, Associate Professor in Fashion, Winchester School of Art, University of Southampton, UK.
Reihe
Sprache
Verlagsort
Zielgruppe
Produkt-Hinweis
Broschur/Paperback
Klebebindung
Maße
Höhe: 229 mm
Breite: 152 mm
Dicke: 25 mm
Gewicht
ISBN-13
978-1-83999-684-9 (9781839996849)
Copyright in bibliographic data and cover images is held by Nielsen Book Services Limited or by the publishers or by their respective licensors: all rights reserved.
Schweitzer Klassifikation
Olga Vainshtein is a fashion historian. She works at the Russian State University for the Humanities in Moscow.
List of Illustrations; Acknowledgements; Introduction; Chapter 1. Fashioning the Dandy; Chapter 2. Literature and Legends; Chapter 3. Charisma and Chameleonism; Chapter 4. Manners ; Chapter 5. The Body; Oscar Wilde; Chapter 7. Russian Dandyism; Chapter 8. Dandyism Revisited; Conclusion; Bibliography; Subject Index ; Name Index
