Uniform: Clothing and Discipline in the Modern World examines the role uniform plays in public life and private experience. This volume explores the social, political, economic, and cultural significance of various kinds of uniforms to consider how they embody gender, class, sexuality, race, nationality, and belief. From the pageantry of uniformed citizens to the rationalizing of time and labour, this category of dress has enabled distinct forms of social organization, sometimes repressive, sometimes utopian. With thematic sections on the social meaning of uniform in the military, in institutions, and political movements, its use in fashion, in the workplace, and at leisure, a series of case studies consider what sartorial uniformity means to the history of the body and society.
Ranging from English public school uniform to sacred dress in the Vatican, from Australian airline uniforms to the garb worn by soldiers in combat, Uniform draws attention to a visual and material practice with the power to regulate or disrupt civil society. Bringing together original research from emerging and established academics, this book is essential reading for students and scholars of fashion, design, art, popular culture, anthropology, cultural history, and sociology, as well as anyone interested in what constitutes a "modern" appearance.
Rezensionen / Stimmen
What does it mean to wear a uniform? How does uniformity transform bodies? These are just two of the questions addressed in this book. The answers are revealing, complex, and utterly compelling. A "must read" for anyone curious about the power of clothes in the modern world. * Joanna Bourke, Birkbeck, University of London, UK * Rigorous, theoretically rich, transnational and transhistorical in scope, this book brings exciting new perspectives to the study of dress, institutions and disciplinary power. * Ilya Parkins, University of British Columbia, Canada * Innovative and fascinating ... a much needed approach to uniform as embedded social practice. * Sophie Woodward, University of Manchester, UK * [A]n invaluable resource for students of fashion, clothing, dress history and cultural studies. * Kevin Almond, University of Leeds, UK *
Sprache
Verlagsort
Verlagsgruppe
Bloomsbury Publishing PLC
Illustrationen
Maße
Höhe: 232 mm
Breite: 154 mm
Dicke: 20 mm
Gewicht
ISBN-13
978-1-350-22722-4 (9781350227224)
Copyright in bibliographic data and cover images is held by Nielsen Book Services Limited or by the publishers or by their respective licensors: all rights reserved.
Schweitzer Klassifikation
Jane Tynan is Assistant Professor of Design History and Theory, Vrije Universiteit Amsterdam, Netherlands.
Lisa Godson is Programme Leader of the MA in Design History and Material Culture at the National College of Art and Design, Dublin, Ireland.
Herausgeber*in
Vrije Universiteit Amsterdam, Netherlands
Lecturer in Visual CultureNational College of Art and Design, Ireland
List of Illustrations
Notes on Contributors
Acknowledgments
1 Understanding Uniform: An Introduction - Jane Tynan and Lisa Godson
Part One: Uniforming Political Movements
2 The Public Order Act: Defining Political Uniform in 1930s Britain - Annebella Pollen
3 Revolutionary Culture, Girl Power, and the Red Guard Uniform During the Chinese Cultural Revolution - Li Li
Part Two: Uniforming Institutions
4 Uniform Adoption in English Public Schools, 1830-1930 - Kate Stephenson
5 Dissolving Vatican Uniform Hegemony: The Marist Road to Dress Freedom - William J. F. Keenan
Part Three: Uniforming Leisure
6 Fashionably Rational: The Evolution of Uniformed Leisure in Late Nineteenth-Century Britain - Geraldine Biddle-Perry
7 Uniformity in Fashion Practices During the Modernization Period in Turkey - F. Dilek Himam
Part Four: Uniforming Workers
8 Uniforming the Corporate Body in the City of London - Samira Guerra
9 A Cast of Thousands: Martin Grant and the New Qantas Uniform - Prudence Black
Part Five: Uniforming Fashion
10 Overalls: Functional, Political, Fashionable - Djurdja Bartlett
11 Utility Chic: Where Fashion and Uniform Meet - Jane Tynan
Part Six: Uniforming the Military
12 Military Uniform and Lethal Targeting in International Law on Armed Conflict - Amin Parsa
13 Military Uniforms and Women in the Ulster Defence Regiment - Stephen Herron
Conclusion
Notes
Select Bibliography
Index
