Preface 5
Acknowledgements; Books; Glossary 6
Getting about 7
Picnics and short walks 8
Touring 12
1 The foothills of the Apennines - the Mugello 14
2 Hilltop villages and gentle hills of the Chianti 17
3 Marble mountains of the Alpi Apuane,
and the Garfagnana 20
4 The cool hills and forests of the Pratomagno,
and the valley of the Casentino 24
5 Hilltop fortress towns west of Siena 28
6 The dramatic landscape of the Sienese Crete 31
7 Around Monte Amiata - volcanic landscape,
hot springs and skiing 34
8 Southern Tuscany, forgotten since the Etruscans 37
Walking 40
Grading, maps, waymarking, GPS 40
When to walk in Tuscany 41
Where to stay 41
Right of way 42
What to wear 42
What to carry 42
A word of caution 43
What you need to know 43
How to ask for help 43
Refreshments 44
Fences and gates at vineyards 45
Buses 45
Websites and emergency telephone number 46
The country code and safety guidelines 46
The walking notes 47
WALKS NORTH OF FLORENCE
Around Florence
1 From Bivigliano to Fiesole 48
2 Circuit from Fiesole via Settignano and Vincigliata 52
3 Circuit from Cercina via Monte Morello 57
The Mugello
4 Circuits around San Piero a Sieve and Trebbio 61
5 Circuit from Sant'Agata via the Apennine ridge 66
In the Alpi Apuane
6 Along Michelangelo's road 69
7 Circuit below Monte Procinto via the Alta Matanna refuge 72
8 Circuit from Fociomboli via Favilla and the Foce di Mosceta 75
In the Garfagnana
9 Bagni di Lucca circuit 79
The Alpe di San Benedetto
10 Monte Falco, Monte Falterona and the source of the Arno 83
WALKS BETWEEN FLORENCE AND SIENA
In the Pratomagno
11 Circuit from the abbey at Vallombrosa via Monte Secchieta 86
12 Circuit from Caspri via Monte Cocollo and
Poggio Montrago 89
The Chianti
13 Circuit from the Badia a Passignano 93
14 Sezzate River circuit 96
15 Circuit from Gaiole via the Castello di Meleto
and Barbischio 100
16 Circuit from Monte San Michele via Volpaia 101
17 Volpaia circuit via Castelvecchi 107
Around Volterra
18 Circuit from San Donato (near San Gimignano) 110
19 Circuit from the walls of Volterra 113
WALKS SOUTH OF SIENA
In the Crete
20 Circuit from Monte Oliveto via San Giovanni d'Asso 116
The Val d'Orcia
21 From Montalcino to the abbey of Sant'Antimo 120
22 Circuit round Bagno Vignoni 124
23 Circuit of three castles, from Castiglione d'Orcia 128
24 Circuit from Vivo d'Orcia on the slopes of Monte Amiata 132
WALKS IN SOUTHERN TUSCANY
25 From Pitigliano to Sovana 136
26 Circuit from Saturnia 140
Index 143
Fold-out touring maps inside back cover
ARTICLES
Tuscan food 29
Monte Senario 50
Ice house 51
Stonemasons 53
Castello di Vincigliata 55
The parish church at Cercina 58
Mezzadria 63
Cattle 65
Cyclamen 68
Marble from the Alpi Apuane 71
Sweet chestnuts 74
Charcoal-making 77
Hunting 82
Hellebores 86
Wild boar 88
Terraces 90
Badia a Passignano 94
Church bells 95
Olives and olive oil 99
Vineyards 103
Iris 106
The hoopoe bird 106
Cypress tree 107
Country dwellings 111
Burraia 112
Umbrella pines 115
Monte Oliveto Maggiore 117
Truffles 118
Glow-worms or fireflies 121
Religious street furniture 127
Ilex tree 129
Willows 130
Tracks 131
Peasant life 135
The Etruscans 137
Wild food 139
