I Medina de las Aguas II An Andalusian village III Water, water, everywhere ... IV Back to school V Love in La Manzanilla VI Raining cats, dogs and caterpillars VII La Manzanilla goes to the polls VIII This doesn't feel quite right IX La Manzanilla in the spotlight X Fiesta XI The wheels grind slowly XII Lockdown and beyond XIII A cautionary tale? Acknowledgements