Madrid After Dark

Introduces visitors to the nocturnal allure of Madrid not found in guidebooks. In 1762 the philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau observed that we are blind half our lives because of what we miss during the night. Yet we fear the dark, and are led to believe that bad things happen during the small hours, especially in cities. This is when insomniacs, psychopaths, and photophobicsthose who are afraid of the lightroam the streets; the time when normal people should be tucked up in their beds. The Elizabethan playwright Thomas Middleton wrote that there should be no occupation but sleep, feed, and fart during night-time hours. Yet there have long been literary walkers, flneurs, who have wandered the dark streets of their cities to uncover the secrets of the night: from Restif de la Bretonne, in his 1789 Les Nuits de Paris, labeled both eccentric and pornographicto Charles Dickens, who in his Night Walks (1861) evoked the sleeplessness of a man who defied the night, with all its sorrowful thoughts. As cities became lighter, through the advance of technology and commerce, the writers fascination in the mystery of the nighttime city faded. But some cities, restless metropolises like New York and London, retain their nocturnal allure. Madrid is one such city. The writer Ben Stubbs was drawn to explore the Spanish capital at night like the flneurs of the past. He set out when the sun went down to examine the life of the night in this often-maligned city, a place famed for its late hours and exuberant nightlife. Exploring the history of everything from tapas to the new politics of Podemos, he encountered the citys cultural quirks and clandestine stories while talking to many Madrileos who are normally denied a voice in the city. As each hour of the night unfolds, Stubbs discovers different layers within M