North African Textiles

This text is a survey of North African textiles from ancient Egypt to the present day. It is published to accompany two exhibitions at the Museum of Mankind: "Modesty and Display: North African Textiles" and "Secular and Sacred: Ethopian Textiles". The rich textile tradition of North Africa is the result of centuries of diverse cultural influences. The civilizations of ancient Egypt, Carthage, Rome and Greece had left their mark well before the Arab invasion of the 8th century, while more recently peoples from Europe, the Middle East, sub-Saharan Africa and India have contributed to its development. The book describes the main types of looms used and the spinning and dyeing techiques. It also looks at embroidery, applique, tie-dye and passementerie and explores the importance of symbols and motifs used in design. There is a contrast between textiles made in different parts of the region, and between town and country areas. Distinctions also reflect the different ways in which the tenets of Islam have been interpreted and expressed in urban and rural environments.
The living tradition of North African textiles is apparent in the founding of weaving co-operatives which adapt old techniques and styles to new materials and markets. The book aims to provide new insights into the significance of textiles in the North African cultural tradition.