Introduction xi
PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1
Chapter 1 Background Information 3
Geography 3, Climate 5, Natural history and conservation
5, History of the Carretera Austral - an overview 13,
Government and politics 19, Economy 19, People and
culture 21, Language 23
Chapter 2 Planning 24
When to visit 24, Highlights 24, Suggested itineraries 26
Chapter 3 Practical Information 40
Tour operators 40, Tourist information 42, Red tape 42,
Embassies 43, Getting there and away 43, Health 46,
Safety 49, Women travellers 49, LGBTQ+ travellers 49,
Travelling with a disability 49, Travelling with kids 50,
What to take 50, Money and budgeting 53, Getting around
55, Accommodation 62, Eating and drinking 64, Public
holidays 66, Shopping 66, Activities along the Carretera
Austral 66, Media and communications 71, Cultural
etiquette 72
PART TWO THE NORTHERN CARRETERA AUSTRAL 77
Chapter 4 Puerto Montt 79
History 80, Getting there and around 82, Tourist
information and tour operators 85, Where to stay 86,
Where to eat and drink 88, Entertainment and nightlife
91, Shopping 91, Other practicalities 92, What to see and
do 93
Chapter 5 Puerto Montt to Villa Santa Lucia 97
Towards Hornopiren 97, Hornopiren 112, Parque
Nacional Hornopiren 119, Around Hornopiren 120,
Towards Chaiten 122, Chaiten 122, Parque Nacional
Pumalin Douglas Tompkins 132, El Amarillo to Villa
Santa Lucia 136
PART THREE THE CLASSIC ROUTE 141
Chapter 6 Futaleufu to La Junta 143
Futaleufu 144, Palena - a detour 153, Puerto Ramirez
159, La Junta and around 159, Raul Marin Balmaceda - a
detour 167, Lago Verde - a detour 170
Chapter 7 La Junta to Puyuhuapi and Cisnes 174
Puyuhuapi 174, Puerto Cisnes - a detour 186, Villa
Amengual and a detour to Paso Rio Frias-Apeleg 194
Chapter 8 Puerto Aysen and Chacabuco 199
Manihuales and around 199, Puerto Aysen/Puerto
Chacabuco 202, Reserva Nacional Rio Simpson 212
Chapter 9 Coyhaique 215
History 215, Getting there 216, Tour operators 219, Where
to stay 223, Where to eat and drink 227, Entertainment
and nightlife 228, Shopping 229, Other practicalities 230,
Sightseeing and excursions 232
Chapter 10 South of Coyhaique: to Cruce El Maiten via Lago General Carrera 235
Lakes south of Coyhaique 236, Balmaceda - exiting the
Carretera Austral 237, Puerto Ibanez and the Levican
Peninsula - a detour 239, Cerro Castillo 245, Bahia Murta
and Puerto Sanchez - a detour 254, Puerto Rio Tranquilo
259, Cruce El Maiten 269, Cruce El Maiten to Chile Chico
- a detour 271
PART FOUR THE SOUTHERN CARRETERA AUSTRAL 287
Chapter 11 The Deep South: Cruce El Maiten to Caleta Tortel 289
Puerto Bertrand 289, Parque Nacional Patagonia 294,
Cochrane 301, Caleta Tortel - a detour 309
Chapter 12 Exiting/Entering the Carretera Austral: Villa O'Higgins and beyond 319
Villa O'Higgins and around 320, Crossing into Argentina
328, El Chalten (Argentina) 333
Appendix 1 Islands and Villages Inaccessible by Land 335
Appendix 2 Language 339
Appendix 3 Further Information 344
Index 351
Index of Advertisers 361
