From Helene Jawhara Piner, Gourmand World Cookbook Award-winning author of Sephardi: Cooking the History, comes a collection of 125 meticulously crafted recipes showcasing the enduring flavors that define Sephardic culinary heritage. Matzah and Flour: Recipes from the History of the Sephardic Jews offers a tantalizing exploration of the central role of matzah and flour in Sephardic cuisine. Journey through centuries of tradition as flour, from various grains like chickpea, corn, and barley, intertwines with cultural narratives and religious observance. Delve into the symbolism of matzah, from its origins in the Exodus story to its embodiment of resilience and identity. Each of this cookbook's thoughtfully prepared recipes is a testament to the transformative power of flour in Sephardic culinary heritage. From savory delicacies to sweet delights, these timeless flavors have sustained Sephardic families through history. Matzah and Flour is a celebration of tradition, history, and the enduring legacy of Sephardic Jewish cuisine.
Rezensionen / Stimmen
"While the unleavened bread of Passover is the root of the story, Piner offers recipes that use this simple but complicated cake to make meals that work well at any time of year. In the process, she also explores and engages readers in the deeper meanings of what is traditionally called the "bread of affliction" and how food can be a symbol of freedom and a sustainer of not only the individual but society as well. Whether you trace your roots back to Spain or the Mayflower, the story of Passover is a universal tale of overcoming oppression and celebrating through food. If you need a guide, I can think of few better than Helene Piner and this amazing new book!" -Matt Robinson, Jewish Unpacked
"Matzah and Flour is a cookbook of its time, with abundant and gorgeous photography, and readers are bound to learn something with each recipe headnote." -Alix Wall, The Jewish News of Northern California
"Matzah and Flour is an exceptional work that intertwines tradition and modernity with unique mastery. Helene Jawara Piner takes us on a culinary journey that not only explores the cultural roots of cuisine but also reinterprets ancestral ingredients with surprising creativity and sensitivity. As a chef, I am deeply inspired to see how this book reimagines classic recipes for a new generation, while preserving the soul of each dish." - Chef Daniel Ovadia, owner of Merkava restaurant and others
"There is no better conduit of ancient Sephardic tradition than my friend, Helene Jawhara Piner. She has dedicated her life to this work to bring us the history and recipes of medieval Spanish Jewry with this fascinating cookbook. A must read-Matzah and Flour is historically eye-opening and of course, delicious." - Mike Solomonov, Co-owner & Chef of Zahav
"What a brilliant concept for a Jewish cookbook! Leave it to Helene to find a way to offer her groundbreaking scholarly work through such a delicious, accessible lens. Through her concise writing and beautifully photographed recipes, she shows us just how essential flour in all its forms has been to Sephardic cooking, and how it reflects the community's rich history from ancient to modern timeline." - Adeena Sussman, author of Shabbat: Recipes and Rituals From My Kitchen To Yours and Sababa: Fresh, Sunny Flavors from My Israeli Kitchen
"Helene's ability to teach me about the history of Jewish food-ways always has me at the edge of my seat, the fact that I want to make every recipe in this book is just a bonus!" - Jake Cohen, New York Times bestselling author of Jew-ish and I Could Nosh "In this deeply researched book, Helene has done an amazing job weaving together history, culture, religion, and food to tell the story of how flour is at the root of so much spirituality and is the heart of Sephardic Jewish cooking." - Chef Jose Andres
"Piner's Matzah and Flour is a brilliant culinary journey. Piner takes the reader on her quest for Sephardic bread recipes. Leaving no stone unturned, she time travels throughout history using ancient primary sources as a guide. The result is a fascinating foray, rich with stunning photographs and irresistible recipes that beautifully showcase the breadth of the Sephardic diaspora." - Sari Kamin, Public Programming at the James Beard Foundation
"Only an erudite food historian could give us this unique treasure of recipes from ancient Judea, medieval Europe, and the worldwide Sephardic diaspora. Matzah and Flour makes Sephardic history edible. This is a cookbook like no other. A revelation!" - Barbara Kirshenblatt-Gimblett, Ronald S. Lauder Chief Curator, Core Exhibition, POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews
"Helene Jawhara Piner masterfully demonstrates how a quotidian ingredient like flour can reveal multifaceted aspects of Jewish life and culinary practices throughout the ages. Add to that historic recipes that are as intriguing as they are mouthwatering." - Gabriella Gershenson, co-author of Love Japan: Recipes from Our Japanese American Kitchen
"Matzah and Flour is more than just a cookbook; it's a culinary journey that blends the vibrant flavors of Sephardic heritage with Mexican cuisine. It is a celebration of diversity and tradition, with each carefully curated recipe telling a story of cultural fusion and Jewish culinary heritage. As someone who loves both Mexican cuisine and the rich tapestry of Jewish food, I was thrilled to explore this delightful cookbook." - Pati Jinich, James Beard Award Winning Chef & TV Host; author of Treasures of the Mexican Table
"Matzah and Flour is a marvelous book-at once scholarly, practical, and fun. Helene Jawhara Piner traces the Sephardic diaspora through the Old World and into the New, from Spain and Morocco to Mexico, Brazil, and beyond. Drawing on sources that range from the Bible and Maimonides to the records of Inquisition tribunals, she tells stories through matza and muffins, noodles and couscous, tortillas and empanadas. Her easy-to-follow recipes feature flours made from wheat, barley, chickpeas, chestnuts, rice, and more. She takes readers on a journey to see the existential, emotive, and practical importance of food for Jewish peoples and their neighbors across the ages." - Heather J. Sharkey, University of Pennsylvania
"Matzah and Flour is an exceptional work that intertwines tradition and modernity with unique mastery. Helene Jawara Piner takes us on a culinary journey that not only explores the cultural roots of cuisine but also reinterprets ancestral ingredients with surprising creativity and sensitivity. As a chef, I am deeply inspired to see how this book reimagines classic recipes for a new generation, while preserving the soul of each dish." - Chef Daniel Ovadia, owner of Merkava restaurant
Helene Jawhara Piner received her PhD in Medieval History and the History of Food from the University of Tours and the University of Bordeaux. Author of Sephardi: Cooking the History (2021) and Jews, Food, and Spain (2022)-a National Jewish Book Award finalist-she has lectured at Yale University, the University of Pennsylvania, Bar Ilan University, and other prestigious institutions. Recently, Piner was awarded a Visiting Research Fellowship from the Schoenberg Institute for Manuscript Studies at the University of Pennsylvania Libraries, where she'll conduct her research in 2024.
Foreword
Introduction
Map
THE OLD AND HOLY BREADS
Ancient Judean Bread
1. Ancient Judean Bread
The Mishneh Torah Breads of the Rambam
2. Rambam's "Poor Man's Bread" (Lechem Oni) for the First Day of Passover
3. Rambam's Sweet Passover Matzah for the Other Holy Days of Passover
4. Rambam's Savory Passover Matzah for the Other Holy Days of Passover
The Shulchan Arukh
5. The "Shulchan Arukh" Orach Chayim 455:6 Matzah
6. The "Shulchan Arukh" Orach Chayim 453:2 Matzah
7. Matzah Ashirah: Rich Man's Egg Matzah from "Shulchan Arukh" Orach Chayim 444:1
MATZAH & FLOUR
FOOD & HOLIDAYS
ROSH HASHANA
Spain
8. Suares Fried Unleavened Tortillas for Rosh Hashana (Matute, Spain)
YOM KIPPUR
Spain
9. Maria Garcia's Matzah and Chicken Soup to Prepare for the Yom Kippur Fast
10. Isabel Rodriguez's Hojuelas to Break the Fast (Toledo, 1677)
11. Toledan Biscuits and Hot Chocolate from Isabel Rodriguez to Break the Fast (1677)
12. Creamy Hot Chocolate
Mexico
13. Gaspar Vaez's Fish Empanadas for after Yom Kippur
14. Manuel de Lucena and Alvaro de Carrion Yom Kippur Tortillas
SUKKOT
Mexico
15. Quince Cake with Honey
16. Caramelized Quince Sauce
17. Turcos
18. Fig and Almond Tortas
19. Beef Empanadas
20. Manjar Blanco (White Pudding)
21. Roasted Chicken with Preserved Lemon and Dates
HANUKKAH
Spain
22. Suares Fried Pastelicos
23. Bimuelos: Fried Sephardic Anise Donut Balls
Mexico
24. Turcos: The Crypto-Jewish Sweet and Sour Pastry
Morocco
25. Isfeng: The Andalusian Donut
PASSOVER
Brazil
26. Pascoa do Pao Asmo: Passover of the Unleavened Bread (Bahia, 1591-1592)
Portugal
27. Bolos Asmos for Jejum das filhos: The Fast of the Flat Cakes
28. Isabel Gomes' Five Flatbreads of Salvation
29. Felipa Cardosa's Chestnut Matzah for Passover
30. Cecilia Cardosa's Matzah and Sweet Lamb for Passover
Spain
31. Rollicos de Angelina
32. Madam Bernal's Egg Tortas for the Easter of the Flowers
33. Cristobal and Angelina de Leon's Round Tortillas
34. Pesach Wine Flat Cakes from Juana de la Fuente and Beatriz Dias Lainez
35. Catalan Matzah "Brie," From Mossen Dalmau of Tolosa
36. Hormiguillos: Milk, Honey and Almond Matzah Soup
37. Gerona Rabbi's Lamb and Pa Alis
38. Joan Carriera Salmon, Artichokes and and Pa Alis Stew (Gerona)
39. Isabel Nunez's "Dirty" Bread with Passover Salad (Salamanca, 1620)
40. Gabriel and Graciana's Matzah and Lamb Pies for Passover
41. Andalusian Soup from Maria Dias's Passover Seder
42. Ana Cortes' Cocas and Roasted Lamb from the Jewish Ghetto of Majorca
43. Unleavened Flat Snow Cakes of Maria Gonzales
Mexico
44. Blanca Enriquez's Mexican Small Cakes
45. Salomo?n de Machorro's Fish Tacos
46. Passover Indian Wheat and Herbs Crackers
47. Chestnut and Date Haroset Balls from Ferrara
48. The Castellanos' Lamb and Lettuce Stew with Unsalted Bread
49. Shmira Matzah: Freekeh Bread
Morocco
50. Murakkaba: Moroccan Mufleta for Mimouna
51. Seffa: Sweet Fideos for Mimouna
52. Sweet Couscous
SHAVUOT
Italy
53. Monte Sinai: The Jewish Marzipan Pastry
Spain
54. Bread of the Seven Heavens
Morocco
55. Barkoukch: Sweet and Creamy Couscous Porridge
SHABBAT
Brazil
56. Meat Pie of the Fernandes Conversos from Bahia for Shabbat
Mexico
57. Mexican Shabbat Fried Fish
58. Salted Flatbreads
59. Carne Asada: Grilled Marinated Beef
60. Ground Nut Halvah
Spain
61. Beef Empanada
62. Maria Garcia's Young Pigeon Pie for Shabbat
63. Bernal and Maria Alvares' Breadcrumb and Swiss Chard Frittata
64. Cilantro and Garlic on Unleavened Bread with Cheese
65. Diego Garcia Costello's Fish Empanadas for Shabbat
66. Goat Meat Stew and Unsalted Barley Cakes for Sabbath in the Canary Islands
67. 13th Century Andalusian Challah
68. Garlic and Parsley Challah Croutons
69. The Geniza Hummus + my hummus recipe
Arabia
70. Hari?sa: Wheat Grain and Chicken Stew
MARZIPAN
Spain
71. Ruperto de Nola's Marzipan, 1529
72. Unbaked Marzipan with Egg Whites
73. Original Marzipan
EVERY OCCASION
Italy
74. Pignolata al Miele: Fried and Honeyed Italian Pastries
75. Frittole: Sweet Orange and Raisin Italian Donuts
76. Rafioli Fatte all'Hebrea: The Venice Inquisition Sweet
77. Pignorati: De' Medici Italian Cookies with Pine Nuts and Almond Paste
Thessalonica
78. Formigo: White Garlic and Almond Soup with Picos Camperos Breadsticks
Spain
79. Hormigo: Breadcrumb Chicken
80. Ysabel Veles's Stewed Chards with Cheese and Breadcrumbs
MAIMONIDES
Morocco
81. ?arira: Flour Soup
82. Modern ?arira: Tomato and Flour Soup
THE PORTRAIT OF LOZANA:
THE LUSTY ANDALUSIAN WOMAN
Andalusia
83. Fideos: Tuna with Vermicelli Noodles
84. Aldonza's Empanadillas
85. Couscous With Chickpeas
86. Small Green Meatballs with Cilantro
87. Hojuelas: Rolled and Fried Pastry for Esther
88. Pestin?os: Deep-Fried Pastry from Andalusia
89. Hemp Nougatine (Brittle)
90. Sesame Seed Nougatine (Brittle)
91. Nue?gados: Orange and Honey Fried Pastry
92. Cordovan Sopaipas: Small Fried Cakes
93. Hojaldres: The Siam Squash Puff Pastry
94. Hormigos: Hand Made Semolina Couscous
95. Talvinas: Barley Porridge with Silan
96. Zahi?nas: Sorghum and Orange Porridge
97. Nabos sin Tocino y con Comino: Turnips with Cumin Seeds and Bread Crust
98. Olla Reposada: Adafina, The Iconic Sephardic Dish
99. Col Murciana con Alcaravea: Murcian Cabbage with Caraway
100. Boronia: Eggplant and Meatball Stew
101. Cazuela de Berenjenas Moji?: Stuffed Eggplant Casserole
102. Rosquillas de Alfaxor: Honey Stuffed Rings
103. Alfajor: Honey and Nut Sandwich
CREATIONS
104. Shortbread with Dates
105. Eid al Banat: Fried and Honeyed Crowns for Girls' Day
106. Mantecados: Velvety Cinnamon Spanish Cookies
107. Date and Pomegranate Cake for Rosh HaShana
108. Passover Chocolate and Nut Bars
109. Sephardic Matzah Toffee
110. Mollete: Floured Rolls from Antequerra
111. Middle Eastern Cookies with Tehina, Chocolate, Sesame, and Labneh
112. Mexican Sopaipillas with Sweet Chipotle Sauce
113. Sweet and Buttery Braided Challah
114. Za'atar and Nigella Chickpea Crackers with Labneh
115. Potato Matzah
116. Purple Corn Tortilla and Fried Eggplant with Tehina, Lime and Cilantro sauce
117. Cheese Tapioca Matzah
118. Ma'assal: Moroccan Lamb Stew
119. Batbot: Flat and Chewy Moroccan bread
120. Passover Muruzia jam
121. Apple Bunuelos with Tea and Honey
122. Ocho Candelikas: Hanukkiah Challah Candles
123. Burnt Basque Cheesecake
124. Andalusian Angel Hair Challah
125. Salmorejo and Matzah: Cold Tomato Soup from Andalusia
Index
Bibliography
Acknowledgments
