CONTENTS
Introduction vi
PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1
Chapter 1 Background Information 3
Geography and climate 3, Natural history and conservation 4, History 10, Economy 34, People 35, Language 40, Religion 41, Culture 42
Chapter 2 Practical Information 57
When to visit 57, Highlights 58, Suggested itineraries 59, Tourist information 59, Tour operators 60, Red tape 63, Embassies 64, Getting there and away 66, Health 70, Safety 72, Women travellers 72, Gay travellers 72, What to take 74, Money and budgeting 74, Getting around 76, Accommodation 80, Eating and drinking 82, Shopping 87, Arts and entertainment 87, Photography 88, Media and communications 88, Business 92, Cultural etiquette 93, Interacting with local people 94, Travelling positively 95, Other practicalities 96
PART TWO THE GUIDE 97
Chapter 3 Belgrade 99
History 100, Getting there and away 100, Getting around 105, Tourist information 108, Local tour operators 108, Where to stay 112, Where to eat and drink 123, Entertainment and nightlife 133, Culture and festivals 136, Shopping 141, Other practicalities 145, Suggested itineraries 148, What to see and do 149, Nearby city escapes 183
Chapter 4 Along the Danube 185
Travel along the River Danube 185, Smederevo 185, From Smederevo to Veliko Gradiste 191, Golubac 192, The Homoljske region 194, ?erdap National Park 195, Donji Milanovac 197, Tekija 199, Kladovo 200, Negotin 203
Chapter 5 Central Serbia 207
Kragujevac 208, The Knic area 212, Kraljevo 213, East of Kraljevo 217, Vrnjacka Banja 218, Krusevac 220, Topola 223, Valjevo 225
Chapter 6 Vojvodina 229
Geography 229, History 229, Novi Sad 233, Sremski Karlovci 257, Fruska Gora National Park 260, Sremska Mitrovica 265, Sombor 268, Bac 270, Subotica 271, Becej 280, Pancevo 281, Kovacica 283, Kikinda 285, Zrenjanin 287, Vrsac 289, Bela Crkva 293, Deliblato Sands (Deliblatska Pescara) 294
Chapter 7 West and Southwest Serbia 295
Uzice 295, Cacak 301, Guca 303, Around Cacak 305, Zlatibor 306,Villages in the Zlatibor region 309, Tara National Park 315, South along the Ibar Valley 316, Kopaonik region 318, The Raska region 321, Novi Pazar 322, Around Novi Pazar 327, Sjenica 330, Nova Varos 331, Prijepolje 332, Onward travel to Kosovo 333
Chapter 8 East and Southeast Serbia 339
Zajecar 339, Cuprija 344, Jagodina 345, Despotovac 347, Nis 349, Sokobanja 363, East of Nis 365, Knjazevac 366, Stara Planina 368, Pirot 369, Around Pirot 371, Leskovac 373, Vranje 375, Kursumlija 379
Appendix 1 Language 381
Appendix 2 Glossary of Serbian Terms 387
Appendix 3 Further Information 389
Index 395
