Introduction VIII
part one general information 1
Chapter 1 Background Information 3
Geography 3, Climate 4, Natural history and conservation 5, History 9, Government and politics 21, Economy 23, People 24, Language 28, Religion 29, Education 32, Culture 33
Chapter 2 practical Information 48
When to visit 48, Highlights 49, Suggested itineraries 49, Tour operators 50, Red tape 56, Getting there and away 59, Health 62, Safety 66, Women travellers 68, Disabled travellers 68, Travelling with a family 69, What to take 69, Money and banking 70,
Budgeting 71, Getting around 72, Accommodation 74, Eating and drinking 76, Public holidays and festivals 78, Shopping 79, Arts and entertainment 79, Photography 80, Media and communications 80, Business 82, Cultural etiquette 82, Travelling positively 83
pART TWO THe GUIde 85
Chapter 3 Bishkek 87
History 90, Getting there 91, Getting around 93, Safety 95, Tourist information 96, Where to stay 96, Where to eat and drink 101, Entertainment and nightlife 105, Sports 106, Shopping 106, Other practicalities 109, What to see and do 113
Chapter 4 Chui province 121
Valleys south of Bishkek 121, Chui Valley 126, Chong- Kemin Valley 131, Boom Gorge 133, Kara-Balta 134, Suusamyr Valley 134
Chapter 5 Lake Issyk-Kul . north Shore 139
Lake Issyk-Kul 139, Balykchy 144, Tamchy 148, Cholpon-Ata 150, Karkara Valley 160
Chapter 6 Lake Issyk-Kul South and the Central Tien Shan 165
Karakol 165, Around Karakol 175, Trekking south of Karakol 181, Th e Central Tien Shan 183, Lake Issyk- Kulfs southern shore 187, Barskoon 187, Tamga 191, Bokonbaevo 193, Th e southwest shore 197
Chapter 7 Talas province 199
Talas 199, South of Talas 204, West of Talas 204, East of Talas 205
Chapter 8 naryn province 207
Kochkor 207, Excursions from Kochkor 211, West to the Suusamyr Valley 213, Lake Song-Kol 214, Naryn 217, East of Naryn 222, Naryn to the Torugart Pass 223, The Torugart Pass 228, Naryn to Kazarman 231
Chapter 9 Jalal-Abad province 233
Jalal-Abad 233, Kazarman to Jalal-Abad 238, Kazarman 239, Saimaluu-Tash 240, Ortok 241, Arslanbob 242, Th e Road to Bishkek 247, Western Jalal-Abad Province 250, Lake Sary-Chelek 252, Arkyt 254, West to the Chatkal Valley 255
Chapter 10 Southern Kyrgyzstan 257
Osh 257, Around Osh 266, Ozgon 268, The Alay Valley 270, The Irkeshtam crossing to China 272, The Road south to Tajikistan 274, Batken Province 275
Appendix 1 Language 279
Appendix 2 Glossary of Kyrgyz Terms 286
Appendix 3 Further Information 288
Index 292
