Contents Introduction vi
PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1
Chapter 1 Background Information 3
Geography 3, Climate 5, Natural history and conservation 6, History 16, Government 30, Economy 30, People 32, Language 36, Religion 38, Education 41, Culture 42
Chapter 2 Practical Information 48
When to visit 48, Transylvania highlights 48, Itineraries 49, Tour operators 52, Tourist offices 56, Red tape 57, Embassies and consulates 58, Getting there and away 58, Health 65, Safety 68, Women travellers 69, Travelling with children 70, Disabled travellers 70, Gay travellers 70, What to take 71, Money 72, Budgeting 74, Getting around 76, Accommodation 83, Eating and drinking 87, Public holidays and feast days 94, Shopping 103, Arts and entertainment 105, Castles, fortresses, palaces and ruins 107, Spas 108, Sports and activities 109, Media and communications 113, Maps 116, Business 117, Buying property 118, Public toilets 121, Cultural etiquette 121, Travelling positively 124
PART TWO THE GUIDE 127
Chapter 3 Braov County 128
Braov 129, Places to visit en route from Bucharest to Braov 137, Entering Braov County and Transylvania 139
Chapter 4 Covasna County 151
Sfantu Gheorghe 151, Around Sfantu Gheorghe 154
Chapter 5 Harghita County 162
Miercurea-Ciuc 162, Around Miercurea-Ciuc 166, From Praid to Bicaz Gorges 172, From Gheorgheni to Borsec 173
Chapter 6 Mure County 175
Targu Mure 175, Heading east 181, Heading north 182, Sighioara 184, Around Sighioara 189
Chapter 7 Sibiu County 193
Sibiu 193, Heading south and west 202, Heading north 206, Heading east 212
Chapter 8 Hunedoara County 218
Deva 218, Around Deva 222
Chapter 9 Alba County 232
Alba Iulia 232, Around Alba Iulia 236, Heading north from Alba Iulia 243
Chapter 10 Cluj County 247
Cluj-Napoca 249, Heading west 254, Heading north 257, Heading southeast 259
Chapter 11 Bistria-Nasaud County 262
Bistria 262, Around Bistria 267
Chapter 12 Salaj County 271
Zalau 271, Around Zalau 273
Appendix 1 Language 275
Appendix 2 Further Information 284 Index 292
