The Anthropology of Dress and Fashion

Acknowledgments

Introduction
Brent Luvaas and Joanne B. Eicher

Part 1: Classic Works in the Anthropology of Dress and Fashion
Preface

1. The Principle of Order in Civilization as Exemplified by Changes in Fashion
A.L. Kroeber

2. Customs and Beliefs: Ceremonial
Alfred R. Radcliffe-Brown

3. Dress
Ruth Benedict

4. Fashion
Edward Sapir

5. Dress: Its Origins, Forms, and Psychology, with Special Emphasis on the Sexual Psychology
A.E. Crawley

Part 2: Theorizing Dress and Fashion
Preface

1. Fashion -v- Anti-Fashion
Ted Polhemus

2. The Social Skin
Terence S. Turner

3. Clothing as Language: An Object Lesson in the Study of the Expressive Properties of Material Culture
Grant McCracken
4. Definition and Classification of Dress: Implications for Analysis of Gender Roles
Joanne B. Eicher & Mary Ellen Roach-Higgins

5. The Antisocial Skin: Structure, Resistance, and "Modern Primitive" Adornment in theUnited States
Daniel Rosenblatt

6. Style and Ontology
Daniel Miller

Part 3: Material Culture
Preface

1. The Other Half: The Material Culture of New Fibres
Kaori O'Connor

2. Cloth and Clothing
Jane Schneider

3. Jeanealogies: Materiality and the (Im)permanence of Relationships and Intimacy
Sophie Woodward

4. Wild Silk Textiles of the Dogon of Mali: The Production, Material Efficacy, and Cultural Significance of Sheen
Laurence Douny

5. Clothing sociality: Materiality and the everyday among the Kuna of Panama
Margherita Margiotti

Part 4: Dressing the Body in Culture
Preface

1. Kalabari Cut-Thread and Pulled-Thread Cloth
Tonye Victor Erekosima and Joanne B. Eicher

2. Cloth that Does Not Die: The Meaning of Cloth in Bunu Social Life
Elisha Renne

3. The Political Economy of Elegance: An African Cult of Beauty
Jonathan Friedman

4. The Predicament of Dress: Polyvalency and the Ironies of Cultural Identity
Deborah Durham

5. Body Talk: Revelations of Self and Body in Contemporary Strip Clubs
Katherine Frank

Part 5: Dressing the Colony, Fashioning the Nation
Preface

1. Dressing for Dinner in the Bush: Rituals of Self-Definition and British Imperial Authority
Helen Callaway

2. Fashioning the Colonial Subject
Jean Comaroff and John Comaroff

3. The Ao Dai Goes Global: How International Influences and Female Entrepreneurs Have Shaped Vietnam's "National Costume"
Ann Marie Leshkowich

4. Dress for Sukses:Fashioning Femininity and Nationality in Urban Indonesia
Carla Jones

5. "Doing" Danish Fashion: On National Identity and Design Practices of a Small Danish Fashion Company
Marie Riegels Melchior

Part 6: Clothing, Class, and Competing Cosmopolitanisms
Preface

1. Fashion, Anti-Fashion, and Heteroglossia in Urban Senegal
Deborah Heath

2. Dressed to "Shine": Work, Leisure and Style in Malinda, Kenya
Johanna Schoss

3. Fashionable Muslims: Notions of Self, Religion, and Society in San'a
Annelies Moors

4. Landscapes of Attraction and Rejection: South Asian Aesthetics in Islamic Fashions inLondon
Emma Tarlo

5. Forging Connections, Performing Distinctions: Youth, Dress and Consumption in Niger Adeline Masquelier

6. Fashionably Modest of Modestly Unfashionable?
Eric Silverman

Part 7: Making Global Fashion
Preface

1. The Globalization of Asian Dress: Re-Orienting Fashion or Re-Orientalizing Asia?
Carla Jones and Anne Marie Leshkowich

2. Haute Couture in Tehran: Two Faces of an Emerging Fashion Scene
Alexandru Balasescu

3. Recasting Fashion Image Production: An Ethnographic and Practice-Based Approach to Investigating Bodies in Media
Stephanie Sadre-Orafai

4. Ethnographic Entanglements: Memory and Narrative in the Global Fashion Industry
Christina H. Moon

5. Making Clothes for International Markets: A Clothing Perspective on Globalization
Jianhua Zhao

6. In Patagonia (Clothing): A Complicated Greenness
Sharon J. Hepburn

Part 8: The Afterlives of Dress and Fashion
Preface

1. Other People's Clothes? The International Second-hand Clothing Trade and Dress Practices in Zambia
Karen Tranberg Hansen

2. Making New Vintage Jeans in Japan: Relocating Authenticity
Philomena Keet

3. Fake Brands
Magdalena Craciun

4. On Cutting and Pasting: The Art and Politics of DIY Streetwear
Brent Luvaas

Bibliography
Index