Introduction vi
PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1
Chapter 1 Background Information 3
Geography 3, Climate 3, Natural history and conservation 3, Archaeology 12, Brief chronology 14, History 15, Government and politics 21, Economy 22, People 23, Language 24, Religion 25, Education 28, Culture 28
Chapter 2 Practical Information 35
When to visit 35, Suggested itineraries 35, Tourist offices 38, Maps 39, Tour operators 39, Activity and special-interest holidays 41, Visas and entry regulations 43, Embassies 44, Getting there and away 45, Health 47, Safety 48, Women travellers 49, Gay travellers 49, Travellers with a disability 49, Toilets 49, What to take 50, Money 50, Getting around 51, Accommodation 55, Eating and drinking 56, Shopping 63, Arts and entertainment 63, Sport 65, Photography 66, Media and communications 66, Business in Bulgaria 67, Buying property in Bulgaria 68, Cultural etiquette 70, Travelling positively 70
PART TWO THE GUIDE 73
Chapter 3 Sofia 75
History 75, Getting there and away 77, Getting around 77, Tourist information 82, Where to stay 83, Where to eat and drink 84, Entertainment and nightlife 85, Shopping 86, Other practicalities 87, What to see and do 88
Chapter 4 The Southwest 103
In the Rila Mountains 103, Blagoevgrad 113, Bansko 115, The far south 122, Gotse Delchev and nearby 129, Around Kyustendil 134
Chapter 5 The Northwest 139
Iskur Gorge 139, Vratsa 140, Vratsa to Vidin 144, Vidin 150
Chapter 6 Central Stara Planina and the Danube Plain 155
Towards Stara Planina 155, Pleven 157, Lovech 159, Troyan 160, Around Troyan 162, Gabrovo 163, Around Gabrovo 165, Veliko Turnovo 171, Around Veliko Turnovo 177, East towards Veliki Preslav 182, Veliki Preslav 183, Shumen 184, Around Shumen 186, The Ludogorie 187, On the Danube 189, Ruse 191, Around Ruse 195
Chapter 7 The Valley of the Roses and Sredna Gora 197
Sredna Gora 197, East towards Kazanluk 206, Kazanluk 210, Stara Zagora 214, Nova Zagora 216, Sliven 218, Yambol 219, Around Yambol 221
Chapter 8 Plovdiv, the Rhodopes and the Thracian Plain 225
The old road from Sofia to Plovdiv 225, Plovdiv 227, Into the Rhodope Mountains 235, Pamporovo 239, Around Pamporovo 241, Smolyan 241, North and west of Smolyan 243, South from Smolyan 250, Smolyan to Kurdzhali 250, Kurdzhali 252, East of Kurdzhali 254, Haskovo to Svilengrad 257
Chapter 9 Strandzha, the Black Sea Coast and Dobrudzha 263
In the Strandzha Mountains 263, The southern coast 267, Sozopol 269, Burgas 271, North of Burgas 274, Sunny Beach 278, From Sunny Beach to Varna 278, Varna 279, The coast north of Varna 283, Balchik 284, Kavarna 285, North of Kavarna 286, North of Kaliakra 287, Dobrudzha 288
Appendix 1 Language 291
Appendix 2 Glossary 299
Appendix 3 Further Information 301
Index 307
Index of advertisers 312
