Bridging theory and practice, this accessible text considers fashion from both cultural studies and fashion studies perspectives, and addresses the growing interaction between the two fields.
Kaiser and Green use a wide range of cross-cultural case studies to explore how race, ethnicity, class, gender and other identities intersect and are produced through embodied fashion. Drawing on intersectionality in feminist theory and cultural studies, Fashion and Cultural Studies is essential reading for students and scholars.
This revised edition includes updated case studies and two new chapters. The first new chapter explores religion, spirituality, and faith in relation to style, fashion, and dress. The second offers a critique of "beauty" and considers dressed embodiment inclusive of diverse sizes, shapes and dis/abilities. Throughout the text, Kaiser and Green use a range of examples to interrogate the complex entanglements of production, regulation, distribution, consumption, and subject formation within and through fashion.
Rezensionen / Stimmen
The second edition of Fashion and Cultural Studies is the resource that fashion scholars, students, activists and designers need at this time of deep transformation in the field of fashion. It brings together critical theories about power and marginalization and illuminates how these frameworks advance understandings of fashion with nuance and accessibility. This book will inspire readers to question, expand and reimagine how they think about fashion in society, and it offers them the interdisciplinary worldviews to advance social justice through their own work. -- Ben Barry, Dean of Fashion, Parsons School of Design, USA Building upon the critical foundation that Susan Kaiser provided for us in 2012, Denise Green and Kaiser work collaboratively to deepen our understanding of the phenomenon of fashion, drawing upon new ways of considering Style-Fashion-Dress. Fashion and Cultural Studies is a recommended text for educators to assign in the classroom, as it offers the most robust and cogent framework for examining why we wear what we wear, focusing on its sociopolitical implications in today's climate. -- Kimberly M. Jenkins, Educator and Founder, The Fashion and Race Database, USA This exciting book demonstrates how Fashion Theory deepens the theoretical and militant tradition of cultural studies in our time, in relation particularly to issues such as bodies, multiple identities, social inclusion, identity/alterity, spirituality. Even more than in the previous edition, the book shows how fashion can be a true political, ethical and aesthetic passion. -- Patrizia Calefato, Universita degli studi di Bari Aldo Moro, Italy Fashion and Cultural Studies is an innovative, engaging, and refreshing text where Susan Kaiser and Denise Green examine the numerous entanglements of identity, fashion, style, dress, (to use their words) "both/and" the body. In the text and imagery, they center and prioritize examples from historically marginalized communities and they also engage in important critical self-reflection as white, middle-class US American women; other fashion studies scholars need to follow their example. This much-needed book is required reading for those interested in, and perhaps more importantly those not interested in, fashioning identities and justice. -- Kelly Reddy-Best, Iowa State University, USA
Auflage
Sprache
Verlagsort
Verlagsgruppe
Bloomsbury Publishing PLC
Zielgruppe
Für höhere Schule und Studium
Produkt-Hinweis
Fadenheftung
Gewebe-Einband
mit Schutzumschlag
Illustrationen
20 bw illus and 30 color illus
Maße
Höhe: 240 mm
Breite: 164 mm
Dicke: 20 mm
Gewicht
ISBN-13
978-1-350-10467-9 (9781350104679)
Copyright in bibliographic data and cover images is held by Nielsen Book Services Limited or by the publishers or by their respective licensors: all rights reserved.
Schweitzer Klassifikation
Susan B. Kaiser is a Professor at the University of California, Davis, in the Departments of Gender, Sexuality, and Women's Studies; and Design. She is the author of The Social Psychology of Clothing (Fairchild 1997), and more than 100 journal articles and book chapters. She is also the editor of the journal Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty.
Denise N. Green is an Associate Professor at Cornell University where she also directs the Cornell Fashion + Textile Collection. She is on the editorial boards of the Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Fashion Studies, Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty, and was the Vice President of Publications for the Costume Society of America, 2017-2021.
Autor*in
University of California, Davis, USA
Assistant ProfessorCornell University, USA
List of Illustrations
Acknowledgments
1. Fashion Studies and Cultural Studies
Articulation
Style-fashion-dress
The fields of fashion studies and cultural studies
Conceptualizing culture and fashion
Circuit of style-fashion-dress model
Production
Consumption
Distribution
Subject formation
Regulation
2. Intersectional, Transnational Fashion Subjects
Assumption 1: Structure-agency dynamics include processes of persuasion, consent, and resistance.
Assumption 2: Subject formation through style-fashion-dress is a process of navigating intersectionalities.
Assumption 3: Structures of feeling - expressed through subject formation and the fashion process alike - articulate between everyday life and culture through the circuit of style-fashion-dress
Ambiguity
Cultural Ambivalence
Cultural Anxiety
Assumption 4: The field of critical fashion studies needs to move from identity nots to identity (k)nots
Assumption 5: Fashion is transnational - not merely western or "Euromodern"
Assumption 6: The process of negotiating ambiguity is not a level playing field, and it is a material process - especially in a transnational context
3. Fashioning the National Subject
Nation ? essence
Nation as different than: Representing the other
Folk costume, national dress and fashion
Working the hyphen: Nation-state and style-fashion-dress
French Revolution
Chinese Cultural Revolution (and beyond)
From European expansion to globalization
Decolonizing fashion: Beyond the metaphor
Globalization
Intersectionalities and entanglements
4. Racial Rearticulations and Ethnicities
Race and ethnicity: Sliding signifiers
Racial and ethnic rearticulations
Color
Hair
Ethnic re-articulations: Belongings-in-Difference
Sliding into appropriation, sliding into religion
5. Religion, Fashion, and Spirituality
Subject formation
Spirituality, subjectivity, and materiality
Modesty
Piety, orthodoxy, religiosity
Regulation
State alignment with religion
Freedom from religion
Freedom of religion (religious freedom)
Production, distribution, and consumption
The Jewish diaspora and the textile, clothing, and retail industries
The globalization of Muslim fashion
6. Class Matters, Fashion Matters
Conceptualizing class
Caste systems
Sumptuary laws, materials, and the "natural" order
Class, intersectionalities, and industrial capitalism
From textile to apparel production: At home, in the factory, and in protest
Class and fast fashion
Metaphors of class structure and change: The flows of fashion
Status claims and status demurrals
7. Gendering Fashion, Fashioning Gender: Beyond Binaries
Soft assemblages
Marking, unmarking, and remarking gender
Sex, gender, and style-fashion-dress: Feminist deconstructions
Theorizing the body and style-fashion-dress
Transgender studies through bodies and style-fashion-dress
Menswear out of the academic closet
Multiple masculinities
Zoot suit
La SAPE in Congo
US National Survey of Male Intersectionalities
8. Sexual Subjectivities and Style-Fashion-Dress
Sexual subjectivities
Binary "beginnings" and reversals
Homophobic discourses
On the protracted coming out of heterosexuality
1960s and 1970s: Social movements and sexual fashions
1980s and beyond: Queering fashion
Gazing subjects and positionalities
Sexuality through intersectionalities
9. Dressed Embodiment
From phenomenology to dressed embodiment
Abstracting the body and representing embodiment
Anthropometrics and sizing
Stigmatizing and celebrating fat bodies
Sizeism and the fashion industry
Flaunting fat
Dis/abled bodies
Athletics and bodily exceptionalism
Addressing ableism
Disabling environments and style-fashion-dress
Fashioning disability
Concealment
Diversion and reframing
Modifying and making
Compensation
Social uniqueness
Social inclusion
Embodied subjectivities
10. Bodies in Motion Through Time and Space
Time and space (and place)
Age/generation and place
Fashion's way with time in space: Spatiotemporalities
Industrial time
Anti/nonlinear time and space
Nostalgia
Space-Time compression and "speed space"
Uchronic temporality and utopian spaces
Closing/opening thoughts
Bibliography
Index
