Fashion is intimately tied to the material world. With a focus on diverse cultural practices, this book offers new insights into the dynamic relationships between fashion, bodies, and material culture. In a series of original case studies, both historical and contemporary, the collection explores how fashion and clothing affect articulations of body and self, experiences of time and place, and the shaping of social and local/global relationships.
With chapters from leading international scholars, Fashion and Materiality takes the reader from the study of clothing and biography, and an early modern "foreign dress" collection, to Chinoiserie clothing in 18th-century Europe and fast fashion production in today's China. The book also examines fashion's role in nation building, and entanglements between fashion and migration across clothing donations for Syrian refugees in Germany and the circulation of "refugee chic" on international fashion runways. Scrutinizing the dense connections between fashion, clothing, materiality, and humanity, the book shows how the material interacts forcefully with the personal and political.
Rezensionen / Stimmen
Fascinating and a joy to read ... It offers thought-provoking discussion opportunities for critical studies, and is recommended for inclusion in all dress history libraries. * The Journal of Dress History * Far from being "mere clothing," fashion here is shown to reflect the personal, the social, the economic, and the political. Summing Up: Highly recommended. Upper-division undergraduates through faculty and professionals. * CHOICE * [A] welcome and important addition to the literature that furthers current debates in fashion studies and other disciplines. * Eugenia Paulicelli, Queens College and the Graduate Center, City University of New York, USA * With a rich historical and geographical span, and through highly engaging case studies, this wonderful collection brings materiality into focus in the field of fashion studies. * Agnes Rocamora, London College of Fashion, UK *
Sprache
Verlagsort
Verlagsgruppe
Bloomsbury Publishing PLC
Zielgruppe
Für höhere Schule und Studium
Illustrationen
Maße
Höhe: 234 mm
Breite: 156 mm
Gewicht
ISBN-13
978-1-350-05781-4 (9781350057814)
Copyright in bibliographic data and cover images is held by Nielsen Book Services Limited or by the publishers or by their respective licensors: all rights reserved.
Schweitzer Klassifikation
Heike Jenss is Associate Professor of Fashion Studies at Parsons School of Design, The New School, New York, USA.
Viola Hofmann was, until her untimely death in 2023, a full-time faculty member at the Institute of Arts and Material Culture at TU Dortmund University, Germany.
Herausgeber*in
Parsons School of Design, The New School, USA
Institute of Arts and Material Culture, TU Dortmund University, Germany
List of Illustrations
Acknowledgments
Introduction: Fashion and Materiality
Heike Jenss and Viola Hofmann
SECTION 1: FASHION AND CLOTHING - MATERIALS IN TIME AND PLACE
Introduction
1. Material Subjects: Making Place, Making Time through Fashion
Susan Kaiser
2. Dressed Lives: Biography, Emotion, and Materiality
Christel Koehle-Hezinger
3. The Discovery of Materiality: On Archaeological Clothing Finds, Representation and Knowledge Formation
Daniel Devoucoux
4. Appropriating the World through Clothing: Christoph Kress' Foreign Dress Collection
Jutta Zander-Seidel
SECTION 2: MATERIALITY IN MOTION - TRANSNATIONAL CIRCUITS OF FASHION
Introduction
5. Chinoiserie in Fashion: Material Images Circulating Between China and Europe
Daniel Purdy
6. Tradition in Fashion: Golden Embroidery and the Crafting of Heritage in Bukhara
Lola Shamukhitdinova
7. "Our Dress": Chitenge as Zambia's National Fabric
Karen Tranberg Hansen
8. "Made in China": Material Meanderings of Fast-Fashion Cities
Christina H. Moon
SECTION 3: MATERIALITY AND EMBODIMENT
Introduction
9. Sensorial Cosmologies: Fashion Design and the Embodied Practices of the Wearer
Leyla Belkaid-Neri
10. "The Left-Hand Pose": Alchemic Realism and the Intra-Action of Music, Body, and Dress in Metal Yoga
Otto von Busch
11. "Feeling Premium": Athleisure and the Material Transformation of Sporting Wear
Jennifer Craik
SECTION 4: MATERIAL EXCHANGES - FASHION AND MIGRATION
Introduction
12. International Fashion Shows: Creating Transcultural Relationships through Clothing
Andrea Hauser
13. Entangled Histories: Fashion and the Politics of Migration
Elke Gaugele
Notes on Contributors
Index
