Introduction vii
PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1
Chapter 1 Background Information 3
Geography and climate 3, Natural history and conservation 6, History 9, Government and politics 26, Economy 27, People 28, Language 30, Religion 31,
Education 34, Culture 34
Chapter 2 Practical Information 39
When to visit 39, Highlights 39, Suggested itineraries 40, Tour operators 41, Red tape 42, Embassies 45, Getting there and away 46, Health 48, Safety 62, What to take 66, Money 66, Getting around 67, Maps 73,
Accommodation 74, Eating and drinking 75, Public holidays 77, Shopping 78, Photography 79, Media and communications 80, Business 82, Cultural etiquette 82, Travelling positively 84
PART TWO THE GUIDE 87
Chapter 3 Khartoum and Omdurman 89
History 89, Getting there 91, Getting around 94, Tourist information/local tour operators 96, Where to stay 96, Where to eat 99, Entertainment and
sports 103, Shopping 105, Other practicalities 106, Media and communications 107, What to see and do 107
Chapter 4 Northern State 119
Meroe and the pyramids 120, Naqa 123, Musawwarat es Sufra 125, Karima 127, Nuri 131, El Kurru 132,
Ghazali 133, Old Dongola 134, Dongola 135, Kawa 136, Travel along the Nile 137, Kerma 138, West bank
temples 141, Abri 144, Wadi Halfa 145
Chapter 5 Nile State 151
Shendi 151, Atbara 153, Ed Damer 155, Berber 155,
Abu Hamed 155
Chapter 6 Red Sea 157
Port Sudan 157, Excursions from Port Sudan 162, Scuba
diving from Port Sudan 163, Suakin 168
Chapter 7 Al Qadarif and Kassala 173
Kassala 173, Gedaref 178
Chapter 8 Central Sudan 181
Kosti 181, Aba Island 184, Sennar 185, Wad Medani 189
Chapter 9 Kordofan 191
El Obeid 191, The Nuba Mountains 196
Chapter 10 Darfur 205
Background 207, Travel in Darfur 212, Nyala 214, El
Fasher 214, El Geneina 214
Appendix 1 Language 215
Appendix 2 Glossary 219
Appendix 3 Further Information 221
Index 225
