For centuries, the fashion industry has struggled to reconcile style with sustainability. In Historical Perspectives on Sustainable Fashion, you will be transported back in time to discover the historical dimensions of today's sustainable fashion movement. An array of success stories and cautionary tales provide both inspiration and warnings for the eco-conscious designer, encouraging an innovative approach that builds on predecessors' discoveries to move the practice of fashion forward.
The 1st edition, Sustainable Fashion: Past, Present and Future, emerged from the Museum at FIT's groundbreaking exhibition 'Eco-Fashion: Going Green'. This revised edition broadens perspectives even further, incorporating eye-opening examples of designers, brands and activists working for change across the world today. Likewise, a new chapter examines the globalized mainstream fashion system and historical alternatives that provide compelling inspiration for reimagining the status quo.
Fascinating and timely, Historical Perspectives on Sustainable Fashion examines progressive fashion through a historical lens, encouraging readers to question the state of the industry and demonstrating the value of historical insights in enabling and inspiring change.
Rezensionen / Stimmen
Succeeds in bringing together many of the themes and ideas around ethical fashion. (1st edition) -- Costume I have really valued this book since it was first published. It is well-written and accessible, but most importantly, through giving the historical perspectives, it shows the antecedents of the issues plaguing fashion now. -- Alice Payne, Queensland University of Technology, Australia The book is aimed at fashion students - its layout, photographs and pitch make it a successful academic text. It is a springboard from which they are invited to delve deeper into the subject. (1st edition) -- Hayley Mildren * Resource * The ecological issues of the present day are pressing and we do not have all the answers. By looking to the lessons of history, fashion designers, manufacturers, consumers and resistors can each gain a deeper understanding of how we got to where we are today, and how we might use past practices as a departure point for radical change and as a sourcebook of inspirational methods to refresh present-day thinking. Through a clear structure, covering Materials and Process, Design and Manufacture, Reuse and Recycling, Labour Practices, and Treatment of Animals, the authors construct a usable past of origin stories and contemporary parallels in the production and consumption of clothing. The historical research sits alongside museum examples of surviving garments, while the contemporary debates engage with the latest arguments and the freshest responses to the urgent need to do fashion differently. By the close of the final chapter, which looks at fashion systems in the round, and encourages imaginative and speculative thinking, readers will be inspired to take up history's gauntlet and find new solutions to fashion's enduring problems. - Annebella Pollen, Professor of Visual and Material Culture, University of Brighton, UK
Auflage
Sprache
Verlagsort
Verlagsgruppe
Bloomsbury Publishing PLC
Zielgruppe
Für höhere Schule und Studium
Produkt-Hinweis
Fadenheftung
Gewebe-Einband
mit Schutzumschlag
Illustrationen
Maße
Höhe: 252 mm
Breite: 192 mm
Dicke: 18 mm
Gewicht
ISBN-13
978-1-350-16044-6 (9781350160446)
Copyright in bibliographic data and cover images is held by Nielsen Book Services Limited or by the publishers or by their respective licensors: all rights reserved.
Schweitzer Klassifikation
Amy Twigger Holroyd is Associate Professor of Fashion and Sustainability in the School of Art & Design at Nottingham Trent University, UK.
Jennifer Farley Gordon is an affiliate faculty member in the Apparel, Events & Hospitality Management department at Iowa State University, USA. She is also an independent researcher, writer, and curator, and formerly worked as an assistant curator at The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology (MFIT) in New York, USA.
Colleen Hill is Curator of Costume and Accessories at the Museum at FIT in New York, USA.
Autor*in
Research FellowNottingham Trent University, UK
Iowa State University, USA
The Museum at FIT, USA
Introduction
1. Materials and processes
Materials and processes: how did we get here?
The development of cotton
Wool and its competitors
Silk and rayon
Synthetic fibers
Unconventional materials
The invention of synthetic dyes
Human impacts of dyeing
Environmental impacts of dyeing
Materials and processes: inspiration for change
Organic cotton
The resurgence of wool
Hemp and flax
Lyocell and bamboo
Lower impact dyes
Natural dyes
Materials and processes: thinking critically
Materials and processes: further reading
2. Design and Manufacture
Design and manufacture: how did we get here?
Clothing production before mechanization
Advancements in spinning and weaving
The sewing machine and ready-made clothing
Choice and disposability
Design and manufacture: inspiration for change
Wartime restrictions and quality
Post-war couture
Artisanal techniques and slow fashion5
Design features
Design and manufacture: thinking critically
Design and manufacture: further reading
3. Reuse and Recycling
Reuse and recycling: how did we get here?
Repurposing practices
Shawls and scraps
The Great Depression and the Second World War
Shoddy recycling
Reuse and recycling: inspiration for change
Post-war repurposing
The rise of vintage
Repurposing and upcycling in the 1990s and 2000
A new era of fiber recycling
Reuse and recycling: thinking critically
Reuse and recycling: further reading
4. Labor Practices
Labor practices: how did we get here?
Textile mills
Child labor
Garment factories
Globalization and sweatshops
Subcontracting and safety
Labor practices: inspiration for change
Unionization
Labeling
Designer-led action
Labor rights in a globalized industry
Cooperatives and fair trade
Labor practices: thinking critically
Labor practices: further reading
5. Treatment of Animals
Treatment of animals: how did we get here?
Feather adornments
The use of fur
Trapping and farming
Treatment of animals: inspiration for change
Anti-feather campaigns
Anti-fur campaigns
Fake and "ethical" fur
Treatment of animals: thinking critically
Treatment of animals: further reading
6. Fashion systems
Fashion systems: how did we get here?
Enclosure, capitalism and modernity
The European fashion system and the Industrial Revolution
Consumerism and change
Fashion systems: inspiration for change
How clothes are used
New approaches to dressing the body
Challenging social norms
Domestic and custom making
Local production and local distinctiveness
Restricting and managing production
Fashion systems: thinking critically
Fashion systems: further reading
Conclusion
Notes
Select bibliography
Glossary
Index
