Dress helps us fashion identity, history, community, and place. Dress has been harnessed as a metaphor for both progress and stability, the exotic and the utopian, oppression and freedom, belonging and resistance. Dressing with Purpose examines three Scandinavian dress traditions-Swedish folkdraekt, Norwegian bunad, and Sami gakti-and traces their development during two centuries of social and political change across northern Europe.
By the 20th century, many in Sweden worried about the ravages of industrialization, urbanization, and emigration on traditional ways of life. Norway was gripped in a struggle for national independence. Indigenous Sami communities-artificially divided by national borders and long resisting colonial control-rose up in protests that demanded political recognition and sparked cultural renewal. Within this context of European nation-building, colonial expansion, and Indigenous activism, traditional dress took on special meaning as folk, national, or ethnic minority costumes-complex categories that deserve reexamination today.
Through lavishly illustrated and richly detailed case studies, Dressing with Purpose introduces readers to individuals who adapt and revitalize dress traditions to articulate who they are, proclaim personal values and group allegiances, strive for sartorial excellence, reflect critically on the past, and ultimately, reshape the societies they live in.
Rezensionen / Stimmen
This book deserves to become a central point of reference for anyone interested in traditional costume.
- Chloe Middleton-Metcalfe (Folklore)
Sprache
Verlagsort
Zielgruppe
Produkt-Hinweis
Illustrationen
142 color illus., 11 b&w photos, 1 map - 11 Halftones, black and white - 1 Maps - 142 Halftones, color
Maße
Höhe: 282 mm
Breite: 218 mm
Dicke: 26 mm
Gewicht
ISBN-13
978-0-253-05857-7 (9780253058577)
Copyright in bibliographic data and cover images is held by Nielsen Book Services Limited or by the publishers or by their respective licensors: all rights reserved.
Schweitzer Klassifikation
Carrie Hertz is Curator of Textiles and Dress at the Museum of International Folk Art in Santa Fe, New Mexico.
Dedication
Acknowledgements
Map of Scandinavia
A Note on Terms and Place Names
Foreword, by Khristaan Villela
Introduction: Can We Talk about Traditional Dress?, by Carrie Hertz
Part One: Folkdraekt in Sweden
1. Swedish Folkdraekt, by Carrie Hertz
2. They Are at Peace Here, Like Old Friends in Their Caskets: Traditional Dress Collections as Heritage-making, by Lizette Graden
Part Two: Bunad in Norway
1. Norwegian Bunad, by Carrie Hertz
2. Headdress and Hijab: Bunad in Multicultural Norway, by Camilla Rossing
3. The Transnational and Personalized Bunad of the Twenty-First Century, by Laurann Gilbertson
Part Three: Gakti in Sapmi
1. Sami Gakti, by Carrie Hertz
2. The Legacy of Ladjogahpir: Rematriating Sapmi with Foremother's Hat of Pride, by Eeva-Kristiina Harlin and Outi Pieski
Conclusion: The Future of Traditional Dress, by Carrie Hertz
Bibliography
List of Contributors
Index