Introduction viii
PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1
Chapter 1 Background Information 3
Geography 3, Climate 4, Natural history and conservation 4, History 10, Government and politics 18, Economy 18, People 19, Language 20, Religion 21, Education 22, Culture 23
Chapter 2 Practical Information 28
When to visit 28, Suggested itineraries 29, International tour operators 29, Red tape 31, Embassies and consulates 32, Getting there and away 33, Health 38, Safety 44, What to take 46, Money 46, Budgeting 48, Getting around 49, Accommodation 52, Eating and drinking 55, Public holidays and festivals 56, Shopping 57, Arts and entertainment 58, Visiting museums and churches 58, Media and communications 58, Cultural etiquette 61, Travelling positively 62
PART TWO THE GUIDE 65
Chapter 3 Asuncion 66
History 66, Getting there and away 67, Orientation 67, Getting around 68, Tourist information, tour operators and agencies 73, Where to stay 77, Where to eat and drink 84, Entertainment and nightlife 89, Shopping 91, Other practicalities 95, What to see and do 97, Excursions 119
Chapter 4 Circuito de Oro 121
Getting out of Asuncion 123, Suggested circuits 128, Fernando de la Mora 131, Travelling along Ruta 2 131, San Lorenzo 132, Capiata 135, Itaugua 138, Ypacarai 140, Caacupe 141, Itacurubi de la Cordillera 144, Towns north of Ruta 2 144, Luque 144, Aregua 148, San Bernardino 153, Altos 156, Emboscada 157, Atyra 158, Tobati 159, Vapor Cue 162, Towns south of Ruta 2 162, Pirayu 163, Piribebuy 163, Valenzuela 167, Sapucai 168, Travelling along Ruta 1 169, Ita 170, Yaguaron 172, Paraguari 176, Carapegua 177, Ybycui 178, La Colmena 179, Salto Cristal 179, San Roque Gonzalez 180, Quiindy 181, Parque Nacional Lago Ypoa 181, Caapucu 183
Chapter 5 Misiones and the Jesuit Reductions 185
Villa Florida 187, San Miguel 190, San Juan Bautista 191, San Ignacio Guasu 196, Santa Maria de Fe 205, Santa Rosa 210, Santiago 212, Ayolas 214
Chapter 6 Southwest to Neembucu and the Old Battlegrounds 223
Pilar 225, Humaita 232, Fishing pueblos along the Rio Parana 235, Northern Neembucu 240
Chapter 7 Southeast to Itapua and the Ruins 241
San Cosme y Damian 241, Carmen del Parana 247, Trinidad 247, Jesus 256, Colonias Unidas 259, Excursion to San Ignacio Mini 260, Excursion to San Rafael Nature Reserve 267, Encarnacion 268
Chapter 8 Excursion to the Iguazu Falls 277
Puerto Iguazu 279, Foz do Iguacu 286
Chapter 9 Ciudad del Este and the East 295
Ciudad del Este 295, Itaipu 304
Chapter 10 Villarrica and Central Eastern Paraguay 309
Coronel Oviedo 311, Yataity 312, Independencia 313, Villarrica 315, Excursions from Villarrica 320, Caazapa 322
Chapter 11 Concepcion and the Northeast 329
Getting there and away 329, Travelling along Ruta 3 330, San Pedro de Ycuamandyyu 334, Concepcion 337, The far north 342, Pedro Juan Caballero 346, Parque Cerro Cora and the surrounding area 351, The far north of Cerro Cora 354, The east-northeast 354
Chapter 12 The Chaco 361
Within reach of Asuncion 363, Travelling along the Ruta Transchaco 364, The humid Chaco, up to Pozo Colorado 366, Filadelfia 367, Boqueron 371, Loma Plata 372, Salt Lakes 373, Mariscal Estigarribia 374, The Pantanal 377
Appendix 1 Language 384
Appendix 2 Glossary 392
Appendix 3 Selective list of fauna 397
Appendix 4 Further information 399
Index 405
Index of Advertisers 412
