Introduction ix
PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1
Chapter 1 Background Information 3
Geography 3, Climate 4, Population 6, Administration 7, Government 7, Politics 8, International relations 10, Economy 11
Chapter 2 The Icelanders 15
History 15, People 27, Language 30, Beliefs 31, Culture 34
Chapter 3 Natural History 43
Earth 43, Air 45, Fire 47, Water 48, Flora 51, Fauna 53
Chapter 4 Practical Information 69
When to visit 69, Highlights 70, Suggested itineraries 71, Tourist information 73, Tour operators 74, Red tape 75, Embassies and consulates 76, Getting there and away 77, Health 81, Safety 83, What to take 87, Money 91, Budgeting 92, Getting around 93, Accommodation 103, Eating and drinking 108, Public holidays 113, Shopping 114, Activities 114, Arts and entertainment 118, Media and communications 119, Business 121, Cultural etiquette 121, Velkomin! 122
PART TWO THE GUIDE 125
Chapter 5 Reykjavik 127
History 128, Getting there and away 131, Getting around 135, Tourist information 139, Tour operators 139, Where to stay 139, Where to eat and drink 151, Entertainment and nightlife 159, Shopping 163, Other practicalities 165, What to see and do 166, Natural Reykjavik 187, Greater Reykjavik 192
Chapter 6 Reykjanes 203
Getting around 203, Keflavik International Airport (KEF) 204, Reykjanesbaer 205, Vogar 207, Gar?ur 207, Blue Lagoon 208, Grindavik 210, Reykjanesta 211, Eldey 212, Krysuvik 213, Trekking in Reykjanes 213
Chapter 7 Su?urland (South Iceland) 214
Getting around 214, Thingvellir National Park 214, Hverager?i 221, Gullfoss 222, Geysir 224, Skalholt 225, Laugarvatn 226, Selfoss 227, Vestmannaeyjar (The Westmann Islands) 229, Mt Hekla (1,491m) 240, Thjorsardalur 242, Landmannalaugar 242, Hvolsvoellur 246, Skogar 247, Thorsmoerk 248, Vik 250, Kirkjubaejarklaustur 251, Lakagigar 252
Chapter 8 Vesturland (West Iceland) 253
Getting there and around 253, Hvalfjoer?ur 254, Akranes 256, Borgarfjoer?ur 259, Borgarnes 260, The saga circle 262, Husafell 263, Southern shore 263, Snaefellsnes 265, Snaefellsjoekull National Park 265, Olafsvik 271, Grundarfjoer?ur 271, Bjarnahoefn 273, Stykkisholmur 273, Bu?ardalur 276
Chapter 9 Vestfir?ir (The West Fjords) 277
Getting there and away 280, Getting around 281, Isafjoer?ur 281, Vigur 286, AE?ey 287, Bolungarvik 287, Su?ureyri 288, Flateyri 289, Thingeyri 290, Arnarfjoer?ur 291, Bildudalur 294, Patreksfjoer?ur 294, Latrabjarg 296, Around Latrabjarg 298, Vatnsfjoer?ur 299, Brei?afjoer?ur 301, Flatey 302, Reykholar 305, Strandir 306
Chapter 10 Nor?urland vestra (The Northwest) 313
Getting there and around 313, Vatsnes 313, Hunafjoer?ur 317, Vatnsdalur 317, Bloenduos 318, Skagafjoer?ur 319, Sau?arkrokur 319, Drangey 321, Varmahli? 321, Holar 323, Hofsos 325, Siglufjoer?ur 326, Olafsfjoer?ur 328, Dalvik 329, Hrisey 330
Chapter 11 Nor?urland eystra (The Northeast) 331
Getting around 331, Eyjafjoer?ur 331, Akureyri 332, Glerardalur 352, Eyjafjar?arsveit 352, I Fjoer?um 354, Grimsey 355, Kolbeinsey 364, Thingeyjarsveit 365, Go?afoss 365, Laugar 366, Myvatn 367, Beyond Myvatn 377, Husavik 377, Tjoernes 381, Kelduhverfi 382, Joekulsargljufur National Park 383, Melrakasletta 389, Kopasker 390, Raufarhoefn 391, Thorshoefn 392, Sau?anes 393, Langanes 393
Chapter 12 Austurland (East Iceland) 395
Vopnafjoer?ur 395, Moe?rudalur 398, Egilssta?ir 399, Fljotsdalur 401, Hallormssta?ur 403, Vesturoeraefi 404, The East Fjords 405, Borgarfjoer?ur 405, Sey?isfjoer?ur 406, Rey?arfjoer?ur 409, Eskifjoer?ur 410, Neskaupsta?ur 411, Faskru?sfjoer?ur 412, Stoe?varfjoer?ur 412, Brei?dalsvik 412, Djupivogur 413, Papey 414, Vatnajoekull 415, Hoefn 417, Lonsoeraefi 420, Su?ursveit 420, Joekulsarlon 421, Skaftafell National Park 422
Chapter 13 Halendi? (The Highlands) 429
Getting around 430, Kjoelur 432, Hveravellir 434, Kerlingarfjoell 434, Sprengisandur 435, Mt Askja (1,510m) 436, Mt Her?ubrei? (1,682m) 437, Kverkfjoell 437
Appendix 1 Language 439
Appendix 2 Further Information 448
Index 451
