INTRODUCTION (1) PART 1: AZERBAIJAN OVERVIEW Practical Information (Visas, Getting there, Getting around, Money, Accommodation, Food, Drink, Health, Annoyances and safety, Climate, What to wear, things to take, Sources of information, Post and telecommunications ) Facts about the country (History, Religion, Culture and attitudes, Festivals and holidays, Language, Entertainment and the arts, Carpets, Sports and games) What to see, where to go (Geographical overview , Land of fire, Beaches, Mud volcanoes, Post-Soviet curiosities, Architecture, Museums, Into the mountains, Flora and fauna) (2) PART 2: BAKU (Orientation, Information and guides, Naming confusions, History, Exploring the Old City, Around the Old City (Suggested walk), Central Baku, Best of ... overviews, Station area, The Yasamal Slopes, Shahidlar Xiyabany, Zorge and Officer parks, Ganclik and the Embassy area, Tabriz Avenue, In the distant suburbs, Bazaars, Shops and services, Accommodation, Restaurants, Cafes, pubs and bars, Discos, clubs and pick-up bars, Entertainment, Getting around, Getting to/leaving Baku) (3) AROUND BAKU Baku to Alat (Baku to Sahil, Sahil to Gobustan, Gobustan and the mud volcanoes, Alat), Absheron peninsula (History, Beaches, Getting around, Places to visit, North-West Absheron) (4) THE NORTH (Introduction, Regional history, Baku to Gilazi, Gilazi to Alti Aach and the tough route to Shamakha, Gilazi to Qandov, Qandov to Nabran, Nabran , Qandov to Quba, Quba, Excursions from Quba, Quba to Qachrash and beyond, Hiking excursions from Xinaliq, Quba to Samur, Quba to Qusar, Excursions from Qusar) (5) Shamakha-Shaki route (Introduction , Baku to Maraza, Maraza to Shamakha, Shamakha, Around Shamakha (north), Around Shamakha (south), Shamakha to Ismaili, Ismaili, Around Ismaili, Ismaili to Qabala, Qabala , North of Qabala, North-west of Qabala , South of Qabala, Qabala to Shaki, Shaki, Around Shaki, Shaki to Qax, Qax, South of Qax, North-east of Qax/Ilisu, Qax to Zaqatala, Zaqatala, North of Zaqatala/Car, Zaqatala to Balakan, Balakan, Postbina (Crossing the border to/from Georgia) (6) CENTRAL AZERBAIJAN (Introduction , Alat to Kurdamir, Goychay to Mingachevir , Mingachevir , Yevlax, Barda, Barda to Tartar and Naftalan, Naftalan , Goranboy and the Todan Loop, Ganja, Around Ganja, Bayan-Dashkasan-Hosh Bulaq, Ganja to Shamkir, Shamkir, Shamkir-Gadabay-Tovuz loop, Tovuz to Qazax, Qazax, Qazax to the Georgian border, Krasni Most/Red Bridge (Georgian Border) Towards Karabagh (Background, Shusha, Lesser-known sites in the occupied area, Getting to Karabagh, Towards the occupied area) (7) THE SOUTH (Introduction , Alat to Salyan, Salyan to Neftchala , Salyan to Masalli, Masalli, Around Masalli, Masalli Istisu to Yardimli, Yardimli, Around Yardimli, Yardimli to Lerik, Masalli to Lankaran, Lankaran, Around Lankaran, Lankaran to Lerik, Lerik, Towards Kalaxan, Astara region, Astara town) (8) PART 8: NAKHCHIVAN (History, Practical Information, Nakhchivan City, Southern Nakhchivan , Alinja Castle, Northern Nakhchivan, North-Western Nakhchivan ) (9) PART 9: EXCURSIONS TO GEORGIA (SAKARTVELO) Facts about the country (Introduction, History, Religion, Visas, Getting there, Getting around, Money, Accommodation, Food, Health, Climate, Sources of information , Staying in touch) Tbilisi and around (Exploring the centre, Accommodation, Where to eat and drink, Greater Tbilisi) Kaheti and routes to Azerbaijan (Tbilisi to Lagodekhi direct, Tbilisi to Telavi, Telavi, Telavi to Lagodekhi/Azerbaijan border, David Gareja cave monasteries) Routes to Turkey (Tbilisi to Posof via Akhaltsikhe, Tbilisi to Trabzon via Batumi, Into the Georgian Mountains, Swaneti and Khevsureti) (10) APPENDICES Bibliography, Menu decoder, Glossary, Who's who, Useful words and phrases, Names (11) INDEX