PART ONE: THEN 1) The Ancient Kingdoms; 2) Ummayads, Abbasids and Ottomans; 3) The Emergence Of Modern Iraq PART TWO: NOW 4) Saddam's Iraq; 5) Life Under Sanctions; 6) The 2003 War Without End; 7) Post-Saddam Iraq: New Dawn Or Breakfast In Hell?; 8) Iraqi Voices PART THREE: THE COUNTRY AND ITS PEOPLE 9) The North; 10) Baghdad and Central Iraq; 11) The South; 12) Culture; 13) Iraq's archaeological heritage; 14) The Iraqis in Exile; APPENDICES: Further reading, Information for Travelers