PLAN OF CENTRAL LISBON inside front cover
INTRODUCTION 4
the walks 6
the excursions 6
authors' note 7
the restaurants 8
the recipes 9
portuguese food 10
portuguese wines 10
planning your visit 12
when to go 12
where to stay 13
what to take 14
planning your walks 15
on arrival 17
tourist information 17
city transport pass 12
shopping for self-catering 19
markets 19
Walk 1 ? lisbon city 20
alternative visits: belem, parque das nacoes 31
restaurant: comida da ribeira 31
recipes: salt cod bras-style, leite-creme 32
Walk 2 ? sintra castles and palaces 34
restaurant: restaurante regional de sintra 43
recipes: goan-style curry, coriander soup with poached egg 44
Walk 3 ? monserrate and capuchos 46
restaurants: cafe de paris, sintra 51
recipes: chicken breast stuffed with spinach and nuts,
marinated horse-mackerel 52
Walk 4 ? peninha circuit from azoia 54
restaurants: pao de trigo, azoia 60
recipe: turbot and prawn kebab 61
Walk 5 ? azenhas do mar 62
restaurants: ribeirinha de colares, restaurante da varzea,
azenhas do mar 70
recipes: rabbit stew, prawn bread soup 72
Walk 6 ? westward to cabo da roca 74
restaurant: casa da gale, praia grande 82
recipe: pork with clams, Alentejo-style 75
Walk 7 ? arrabida peninsula 84
restaurant: restaurante bombordo, setubal 90
recipes: rodizio de peixe, orange roll 91
Walk 8 ? sado's rice paddies 92
restaurants: museu do arroz and ilha do arroz, comporta 100
recipes: razor-shell and cockle rice, sweet rice pudding,
duck rice, cockles bulhao pato-style 102
Walk 9 ? cabo espichel 106
restaurant: I love espichel, cabo espichel 116
recipe: drunken pears 117
Walk 10 ? lourinha's dinosaurs 118
restaurant: restaurante foz 126
recipe: fish stew 127
excursion 1 ? alcochete 128
restaurant: solar do peixe, alcochete 131
excursion 2 ? obidos 132
costa de lisboa area map 134
restaurants: cozinha das rainhas, ilustre casa de ramiro 135
choosing bacalhau 136
EAT GF, DF 138
eating in restaurants 138
self-catering 139
gf, df shopping 139
TRANSPORT 135
GLOSSARY (menu decoder, shopping items, conversion table) 140
INDEX 143
IN the restaurant (pocket vocabulary) inside back cover