Introduction VII PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1 Chapter 1 Background Information 3 Geography 3, Climate 4, Natural history 5, Conservation 11, History 12, Government and politics 20, Economy 22, People 24, Language 24, Religion 25, Culture 25 Chapter 2 Practical Information 41 When to visit 41, Highlights 41, Suggested itineraries 41, Tour operators 42, Red tape 43, Embassies 44, Maps 46, Getting there 47, Health 52, Safety 56, What to take 57, Money 58, Budgeting 59, Getting around 59, Accommodation 62, Eating and drinking 64, Public holidays and festivals 67, Shopping 68, Communications 69, Media 70, Travelling positively 70 PART TWO THE GUIDE 73 Chapter 3 Montevideo 75 History 75, Climate 79, Getting there 79, Getting around 83, Orientation 85, Tourist information 86, Where to stay 87, Where to eat 93, Nightlife 98, Entertainment 103, Shopping 106, Other practicalities 108, City tour 110, Museums 122 Chapter 4 Southern Uruguay 131 Canelones Department: West 131, Wineries of Uruguay 135, Florida Department 150, San Jose Department 155, Canelones Department: East 160, Lavalleja Department 163 Chapter 5 Eastern Uruguay 173 Maldonado Department 173, Rocha Department 221 Chapter 6 Western Uruguay 245 Colonia Department 245, Soriano Department 262, Rio Negro Department 269, Paysandu Department 279, Salto Department 287 Chapter 7 The Interior 297 Artigas Department 297, Rivera Department 304, Tacuarembo Department 309, Durazno Department 315, Flores Department 319, Treinta y Tres Department 323, Cerro Largo Department 327 Appendix 1 Language 334 Appendix 2 Further Information 337 Index 341