Introduction ix
PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1
Chapter 1 The Country 3
Geography 3, Climate 3, A brief history 5, Government and politics 11, Economy 11
Chapter 2 People and Culture 13
Origins 13, Beliefs and customs 13, Malagasy society 20, Ethnic groups 24, Language 30
Chapter 3 Natural History 33
Introduction 33, Geology 35, Flora 38, Fauna 47, Madagascar's ecosystems 67, Conservation 71, Protected areas 75
Chapter 4 Practical Information 77
When to visit 77, Choosing a trip to suit you 77, Highlights and itineraries 83, Tour operators 86, Red tape 90, Getting there 91, What to take 93, Money 96, Getting around 97, Accommodation 103, Eating and drinking 105, Public holidays 107, Shopping for souvenirs 109, Arts and entertainment 111, Communications 111, Business hours 112
Chapter 5 Health and Safety 115
Before you go 115, Travel clinics and health information 119, Specific health issues 119, Medical kit 124, Safety 124, Advice for specific types of traveller 128
Chapter 6 Madagascar and You 133
Responsible tourism 133, How you can help 139
PART TWO THE GUIDE 147
Chapter 7 Antananarivo and Area 149
History 149, Ivato airport area 150, What to see and do near the airport 155, Antananarivo city 158, What to see and do in Tana 175, Day excursions from Tana 178, Overnight excursions 180
Chapter 8 The Highlands South of Tana 183
Tana to Antsirabe 183, Antsirabe (PK 169) and around 187, Ambositra (PK 259) and around 194, Ambositra to Fianarantsoa 198, Ranomafana National Park 200, Fianarantsoa (PK 408) and around 203, Ambalavao (PK 465) and around 208, Andringitra Massif 212, Ambalavao to Ihosy 214
Chapter 9 The South 216
History 216, Ihosy to Ranohira 218, Isalo National Park 219, The Makay Massif 222, Ranohira to Toliara 223, Toliara (PK 945) 225, Ifaty and Mangily 236, North of Ifaty 240, Anakao 243, South of Anakao 246, Toliara to Taolagnaro (Fort Dauphin) 248, The far south 250, Mandrare Valley 251, Taolagnaro (Fort Dauphin) 256
Chapter 10 East of Tana 267
Antananarivo-Cote Est Railway 267, Tana to Moramanga 268, Lake Alaotra 271, Zahamena National Park 273, Moramanga to Andasibe 273, Andasibe area 273, Andasibe to Brickaville 280, Brickaville to Toamasina 281
Chapter 11 South of Toamasina 283
Pangalanes Canal 28, The east coast from Vatomandry to Mananjary 288, The east coast from Mananjary to Taolagnaro 289
Chapter 12 Toamasina and the Northeast 297
History 297, Toamasina (Tamatave) 298, Toamasina to Soanierana-Ivongo 306, Soanierana-Ivongo to Maroantsetra 309, Masoala Peninsula 316, Antalaha to Iharana (Vohemar) 319, Andapa area 326
Chapter 13 Ile Sainte Marie (Nosy Boraha) 333
Ile Sainte Marie, main island 334, Ile aux Nattes (Nosy Nato) 341
Chapter 14 The North 343
Antsiranana (Diego Suarez) 343, Ramena and the east coast 350, Excursions west from Antsiranana 353, Montagne d'Ambre (Amber Mountain) National Park 354, Excursions south from Antsiranana 357, Ankarana National Park 358, From Antsiranana to Iharana (Vohemar) by road 362, Ambilobe to Ambanja (and on to Nosy Be) 365, Bays and inlets accessible to yachts 367
Chapter 15 Nosy Be and Nearby Islands 369
History 369, Transport 371, Activities and excursions 371, Hell-Ville (Andoany) 376, Ambatoloaka 379, Beach hotels and other accommodation 381, Islands around Nosy Be 385, Mitsio Islands (northeast of Nosy Be) 389, Islands southwest of Nosy Be 390
Chapter 16 The West 393
Mahajanga (Majunga) 395, Ankarafantsika National Park 402, Southwest of Mahajanga 405, Fly-in beach resorts northeast of Mahajanga 407, Northeast of Mahajanga by road 409, Maintirano to Morondava 412, Morondava 422, Morondava to Toliara 426, River trips 432
Appendix 1 Historical Chronology 435
Appendix 2 The Malagasy Language 438
Appendix 3 Further Information 441
Index 448
