The history of the fashion industry has been well written as it relates to people who conform to certain physical norms and cultural stereotypes, whereas the inequality in access to the world of fashion has been largely ignored. Despite this lack of coverage, much work has taken place over the centuries to enable people who live with disability to participate in fashionable culture. This book tells that story via perspectives of notable historical figures, events and movements, and continues the discourse with a look at some of the contemporary developments in clothing and fashion.
The Intersection of Fashion and Disability takes the long view, from early attempts to conceal 'unsightly' bodies of royalty and nobility via creative innovation through growing contemporary awareness of inclusive fashion and how future work can be driven by technology and cultural acceptance.
Rezensionen / Stimmen
Infused in a historical context of adapted clothing designs, lies a recurrent reminder to each of us with disabilities that we deserve continued designs to assure our unadulterated inclusion in society. Kate's decades of dedicated work will enable me, and other Occupational Therapy educators, to proliferate the future of dedicated and skilled therapists to join Kate's efforts to promote a cultural change in the inclusion of all bodies, despite each person's uniqueness. May the memory of my friend Birdie Minor continue to shine through many more women with disabilities as they advocate for disability rights adorned in clothing that allows them to feel whole. -- Paige Moore, Licensed Occupational Therapist and Adjunct Faculty at James Madison University and Mary Baldwin University, USA Marginalized fashion consumers are finally given voice in Kate Annett-Hitchcock's hugely important book. This is fashion history as well as fashion present, the most timely analysis of fashion and disability that we all need to read. -- Dr Kate Strasdin, Senior Lecturer, Cultural Studies, Fashion and Textiles Institute, Falmouth University, UK The Intersection of Fashion and Disability provides great historical background, which I feel many of my students need before starting to design. -- Grace Jun, Assistant Professor of Graphic Design, University of Georgia, USA Finally! This is the book that I've been waiting for ... Annett-Hitchcock's prose is itself a pleasure, and the book does a superb job of making accessible a fashion history for those new to the field, alongside original (and I must say fabulous) research and insights. By moving between case studies, historical narrative, and a dedicated analytic timeline, it moderates between history, aesthetics, economics, and sociology. -- Jessica Burstein, Associate Professor of English, University of Washington, USA An essential text that illuminates an untold history, while crafting a blueprint for Disabled people to be creators, consumers and a collective within the fashion system. * Sinead Burke, CEO & Founder, Tilting the Lens *
Sprache
Verlagsort
Verlagsgruppe
Bloomsbury Publishing PLC
Zielgruppe
Für höhere Schule und Studium
Illustrationen
Maße
Höhe: 224 mm
Breite: 156 mm
Dicke: 20 mm
Gewicht
ISBN-13
978-1-350-14311-1 (9781350143111)
Copyright in bibliographic data and cover images is held by Nielsen Book Services Limited or by the publishers or by their respective licensors: all rights reserved.
Schweitzer Klassifikation
Kate Annett-Hitchcock is a Professor in the Wilson College of Textiles at North Carolina State University, USA. Prior to this, she was on the faculty at East Carolina University, Virginia Tech and the Savannah College of Art and Design. Her research focuses on clothing for health and well-being; fashion entrepreneurship, and historical and cross-cultural inspirations in fashion.
Autor*in
North Carolina State University, USA
List of Figures
Contributors
Preface
Foreword
Acknowledgements
Abbreviations
Glossary
1. Establishing Significance
Introduction
1.1 Purpose of the book: It's a fashion story!
1.2 Medical and social models of disability
1.3 Framing of disability fashion history
Summary
2. Underpinnings: Events Prior to 1800
Introduction
2.1 Setting the stage for the historical discussion
2.2 Pre-eighteenth century
2.3 Impact of the Age of Enlightenment: 1740-1800
Summary
Boxed Profiles: Mrs. Morrell and Miss Hawtin
3. Improvisation and Innovation: 1800-1920
Introduction
3.1 The early to mid-nineteenth century
Charitable Organizations
3.2 The late nineteenth century: Effects of war
3.3 The early twentieth century: War, therapy & industry
Summary
Boxed Profile: Lavinia Warren
4. Rehabilitation, independence & finally fashion: 1930s to early 1970s
Introduction
4.1 Impact of work, World War Two and rehabilitation: 1925-1950
4.2 Academic and government funded research: 1950-1973
4.3 Independent designers-Research and practice: 1950-1960
4.4 Connecting research, outreach and small business through independence & civil rights movements: 1960-1973
4.5 Other activist efforts and government initiatives
Summary
Boxed Profile: Frida Kahlo
5. Individual appearance management between two Acts: 1973-1990
Introduction
5.1 Impact of the 1973 Rehabilitation Act
5.2 Centers and workshops
Design Without Limits
Center for Universal Design
5.3 Other relevant publications
5.4 The beginning role of retail
Summary
Boxed Profile: Sunae Park Evans, Senior Costume Conservator, Smithsonian Institution
6. Contemporary Design and Technology
Introduction
6.1 The Americans with Disabilities Act
6.2 Fashion design developments in context
6.3 Design interviews
Alexandra Palmer on Izzy Camelleri of IZAdaptive
Lucy Jones of FFORA
Grace Jun of OpenStyleLab
Justin LeBlanc on Justin LeBlanc Design
6.4 Do we have a disability design process?
6.5 Harnessing technological developments
Summary
7. A Story of disabled makers
Introduction
7.1 Disabled makers in history
7.2 The legacy of disabled makers
Summary
8. Tying it all together
Introduction
8.1 Patterns of success
8.2 Tying it all together
8.3 Where we could be heading
8.4 Disability fashion history timeline
