Fashion, Identity, Image
Published on 5. May 2022
Book
Hardback
176 pages
978-1-350-18321-6 (ISBN)
Description
How has the fashion industry responded to turn-of-the-millennium non-binary identities? Do they have a supportive or exploitative relationship with queer, trans and ageing subjects? Fashion, Identity, Image unpacks these questions and many more in relation to clothing and representation, identity and body politics in British, European and American culture between 1990 and 2020.
Jobling, Nesbitt and Wong explore issues of intersectionality and inclusivity through groundbreaking shows, including Maria Grazia Chiuri's 'We Should All Be Feminists' catwalk show for Dior (Spring-Summer 2017), Alexander McQueen's 'The Widows of Culloden' collection (Fall-Winter 2006), and the role of transgender models such as Oslo Grace since 2015. Looking to the future of our relationship with fashion, there's also an investigation of the android as a redemptive figure in Alessandro Michele's cross-cultural cyborg collection for Gucci (Autumn-Winter 2018/2019) and the impact of the ageing population with analysis of age and memory in work such as Magali Nougarede's Crossing the Line (2002), and pleasure and morality in fashion publicity since the 1990s for the likes of Calvin Klein, D&G and American Apparel.
Jobling, Nesbitt and Wong explore issues of intersectionality and inclusivity through groundbreaking shows, including Maria Grazia Chiuri's 'We Should All Be Feminists' catwalk show for Dior (Spring-Summer 2017), Alexander McQueen's 'The Widows of Culloden' collection (Fall-Winter 2006), and the role of transgender models such as Oslo Grace since 2015. Looking to the future of our relationship with fashion, there's also an investigation of the android as a redemptive figure in Alessandro Michele's cross-cultural cyborg collection for Gucci (Autumn-Winter 2018/2019) and the impact of the ageing population with analysis of age and memory in work such as Magali Nougarede's Crossing the Line (2002), and pleasure and morality in fashion publicity since the 1990s for the likes of Calvin Klein, D&G and American Apparel.
Reviews / Votes
Gives currency to the importance of fashion as an arbiter of change at a time when the multiplicity and fragmentation of gender is affecting the ways we perceive and experience our bodies and our identities. Its contents will incite ideas and heated debates and I am sure it will be a book whose pages will be well-thumbed and whose subject matter will make for long and passionate arguments and conversations. -- Vicki Karaminas, Massey University, New Zealand Utilizing recent and historic examples, the authors offer a robust account of the role of the fashion industry in creating age, race, gender, and posthuman identities, both actual and fantastic. I finished this book with inspiration for my teaching and research. -- Andrew Reilly, University of Hawai`i, Manoa,More details
Language
English
Place of publication
London
United Kingdom
Publishing group
Bloomsbury Publishing PLC
Target group
College/higher education
Illustrations
40 colour illus
Dimensions
Height: 163 mm
Width: 240 mm
Thickness: 14 mm
Weight
448 gr
ISBN-13
978-1-350-18321-6 (9781350183216)
Copyright in bibliographic data and cover images is held by Nielsen Book Services Limited or by the publishers or by their respective licensors: all rights reserved.
Schweitzer Classification
Persons
Paul Jobling is the author of Fashion Spreads (Berg, 1999), Man Appeal (Berg, 2005) and Advertising Menswear (Bloomsbury, 2014). He was Visiting Professor between 2018 and 2020 for the MA Fashion Studies at The New School, Parsons Paris, France.
Philippa Nesbitt graduated from the MA Fashion Studies, The New School, Parsons Paris. Her MA thesis explores the emergence and impact of gender non-conformativity in global fashion modelling and media. She is currently digital curator for Revue magazine.
Angelene Wong graduated from the MA Fashion Studies, The New School, Parsons Paris. She is a doctoral student at School of Art, Design and Media at Nanyang Technological University, Singapore, and a dance artist. Her doctoral thesis focusses on body politics at the intersection of fashion media, dance, and digitalisation.
Philippa Nesbitt graduated from the MA Fashion Studies, The New School, Parsons Paris. Her MA thesis explores the emergence and impact of gender non-conformativity in global fashion modelling and media. She is currently digital curator for Revue magazine.
Angelene Wong graduated from the MA Fashion Studies, The New School, Parsons Paris. She is a doctoral student at School of Art, Design and Media at Nanyang Technological University, Singapore, and a dance artist. Her doctoral thesis focusses on body politics at the intersection of fashion media, dance, and digitalisation.
Content
List of Illustrations
Acknowledgements
Introduction
1. Authoring Fashion, Intersecting Sex and Gender
Introduction
Maria Grazia Chiuri's 'We Should All Be Feminists' T-Shirt for Christian Dior: Branding, identity and authorship
Between the womb and the gay parade: Alexander McQueen's 'The Widows of Culloden' as poetic text
Subverting the symbolic order: McQueen's abject woman
Conclusion: Squaring up to the phallic mother
Notes
2. Written on the body: Fashion, clothing and age
Introduction
'Active ageing', youthfulness and fashion
'Fashion For All Ages' and the new old model army
Race and reversing convention
Conclusion: From idiotic methods to the realities of time and place
Notes
3. (Un)Gendering the runway
Introduction
Forerunners of transgender and non-binary identities in fashion
The advent of transgendered models
The abject trans-model
Between abjection and acceptance
'Come into the (trans)garden': The heterotopia of fashion
The authentic self
Other models: Intersectionality and wider diversity in the fashion industry
Tokenism versus activism
Conclusion: Between tokenism and authenticity
Notes
4. Loving the alien: Fashion and cyborg identities
Introduction
Andrea Giacobbe and 'Simplex Concordia'
Alessandro Michele and the Gucci Cyborg
Compromising race and diversity
A 'genuine cyborg manifesto'?
Conclusion: Towards emancipatory possibilities
Notes
Epilogue
Acknowledgements
Introduction
1. Authoring Fashion, Intersecting Sex and Gender
Introduction
Maria Grazia Chiuri's 'We Should All Be Feminists' T-Shirt for Christian Dior: Branding, identity and authorship
Between the womb and the gay parade: Alexander McQueen's 'The Widows of Culloden' as poetic text
Subverting the symbolic order: McQueen's abject woman
Conclusion: Squaring up to the phallic mother
Notes
2. Written on the body: Fashion, clothing and age
Introduction
'Active ageing', youthfulness and fashion
'Fashion For All Ages' and the new old model army
Race and reversing convention
Conclusion: From idiotic methods to the realities of time and place
Notes
3. (Un)Gendering the runway
Introduction
Forerunners of transgender and non-binary identities in fashion
The advent of transgendered models
The abject trans-model
Between abjection and acceptance
'Come into the (trans)garden': The heterotopia of fashion
The authentic self
Other models: Intersectionality and wider diversity in the fashion industry
Tokenism versus activism
Conclusion: Between tokenism and authenticity
Notes
4. Loving the alien: Fashion and cyborg identities
Introduction
Andrea Giacobbe and 'Simplex Concordia'
Alessandro Michele and the Gucci Cyborg
Compromising race and diversity
A 'genuine cyborg manifesto'?
Conclusion: Towards emancipatory possibilities
Notes
Epilogue