Topics in Ocean Physics
Published on 1. January 1982
572 pages
978-0-444-59774-8 (ISBN)
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Topics in Ocean Physics
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A.R. Osborne | Paola Malanotte-Rizzoli
Topics in Ocean Physics
International Summer School Proceedings
Book
06/1982
Elsevier
€144.30
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Content
- Front Cover
- Topics in Ocean Physics
- Copyright Page
- Table of Contents
- Introduction
- PRT I: THE DYNAMICS OF MESOSCALE AND LAEGE-SCALE FLOWS
- Chapter 1. Dynamics of Ocean Currents and Circulation: Results of POLYMODE and Related Investigations
- REFERENCES
- Chapter 2. Geostrophic Turbulence
- 1.- Introduction
- 2.- The quasi-geostropic equations
- 3.- Two-dimensional turbulence
- 4.- Two-layer rotating turbulence
- 5.- Entropy and absolute equilibrium
- 6·- Closure
- 7.- Beta-plane turbulence
- 8.- Comments
- REFERENCES
- Chapter 3. Observations of Large and Mesoscale Motions in the Near-Surface Layer
- 1.- Introduction
- 2·- Effect of wind and surface currents
- 3.- Surface current response to wind
- 4.- Circulation in the Eastern North Pacific
- 5.- Tracking the Kuroshio
- 6.- Mesoscale eddies off Eastern Australia
- 7.- Envoi
- REFERENCES
- Chapter 4. Planetary Solitary Waves and Their Existing Solutions in the Context of a Unified Approach
- 1.- Introduction
- 2·- A general potential-vorticity conservation equation for planetary motions
- 3.- The general classification of solitary-wave models: specific examples
- 4.- The « minimal » model equation: application of the unified approach
- 5·- Conclusions
- REEFEEENCES
- Chapter 5. The Stability of Planetary Solitary Waves.
- 1.- Introduction
- 2.- The basic model equation, its permanent-form solutions and the related analytical stability analysis
- 3.- Finite-amplitude perturbations in the solitary eddy initial conditions: numerical experiments
- 4.- Collision experiments
- 5.- The stability of the permanent-form solutions to perturbations of the initial phases and relief
- 6.- Conclusions
- REEFEEENCES
- Chapter 6. The Predictability Problem of Planetary Motions in the Atmosphere and the Ocean
- 1.- Introduction
- 2.- The predictability of a flow with many interacting scales of motion
- 3·- The planetary motions and their connection with two-dimensional turbulence
- 4.- The predictability problem in one-dimensional systems: the Fermi-Pasta-Ulam (FPU) model
- 5.- Two- and three-dimensional systems which support solitary-wave solutions
- 6.- Conclusions
- REFEEENCES
- PART II: NONLINEAR WAVE MECHANICS
- Chapter 7. Nonlinear Phenomena of Waves on Deep Water
- 1.- Introduction
- 2.- The governing equations
- 3.- Concept of a wave train
- 4.- Modulational instability
- 5.- The nonlinear Schrodinger equation
- 6.- Envelope solitons
- 7.- Long-time evolution of an unstable wave train and recurrence
- 8.- Relation between initial conditions and long-time evolution
- 9.- Three-dimensional effects
- 10.- Higher-order effects
- 11.- Statistical theory
- 12·- The limiting wave
- 13.- Restabilization
- 14.- Bifurcation of large-amplitude waves
- 15·- Generation of capillary waves by steep gravity waves
- 16.- Wave breaking
- 17.- Conclusion
- REFERENCES
- Chapter 8. Solitons and the Inverse Scattering Transform
- PART I. The Physical Meaning of Equations with Solitons
- 1.- Small-amplitude waves propagating in only one spatial dimension
- 2.- Small-amplitude waves in more dimensions
- 3.- Derivation of the KdV equation
- PART II. Introduction to the Inverse Scattering Transform
- 1.- Linear evolution equations
- 2.- Nonlinear evolution equations
- 3.- Generalizations
- PART III. More Inverse Scattering on the Infinite Interval
- 1.- Hamiltonian mechanics
- 2.- Scattering theory
- 3.- Solutions of the nonlinear Schrodinger equation
- PART IV. The Korteweg-de Vries Equation with Periodic Boundary Conditions
- PART V. Deterministic and Chaotic Models
- 1.- The Painleve property
- 2.- Relation to IST
- 3.- Applications
- REFERENCES
- Chapter 9. Small-Scale Ocean Waves
- 1.- Introduction
- 2·- Water wave solitons
- 3.- Modelling criteria for long water waves
- 4.- Excitation of standing edge waves on beaches
- REFERENCES
- Chapter 10. Internal Solitons in the Andaman Sea
- 1.- Introduction
- 2.- Historical setting
- 3.- The soliton
- 4.- Internal solitons
- 5.- The Andaman Sea internal-wave data
- 6.- Discussion
- REFERENCES
- PART III: MIXED-LAYER DYNAMICS
- Chapter 11. Mixed-Layer Physics
- 1.- Observations of the ocean mixed layer and its equations of motion
- 2.- Models of vertical transport of heat and momentum
- 3.- Mixed-layer experiments and their simulations with models
- REEFERENCES
- PART IV: MODELS OF OCEAN SURFACE WAVES
- Chapter 12. Summary of Probability Laws for Wave Properties
- 1.- Introduction
- 2.- The Rayleigh distribution for wave heights
- 3·- The significant wave height
- 4·- A distribution for crest elevation
- 5.- A probability law for wave periods and amplitudes
- REFERENCES
- Chapter 13. Techniques for Computer Simulation of Ocean Waves
- 1.- Introduction
- 2.- Pseudorandom numbers
- 3.- Filters
- 4.- Simulation concepts
- 5.- Time domain simulation by matrix multiplication
- 6.- Time domain simulation by filtered white noise
- 7.- Time domain simulation with random-phase structure
- 8.- Frequency domain probability structure
- 9.- Frequency domain simulation by matrix multiplication
- 10·- Frequency domain simulation by filtered white noise
- 11.- Frequency domain simulation by random-phase structure
- 12.- Computer requirements for frequency domain simulations
- 13.- Constrained and conditional simulations
- 14.- Nonlinear wave simulation
- 15.- Sea surface simulation procedures
- 16.- Simultaneous simulation of multiple wave properties
- 17.- The above-mean-water-level problem
- 18.- Conditional simulation of kinematic properties
- 19.- Summary and conclusions
- REFERENCES
- Chapter 14. Statistical Precision of Directional Spectrum Estimation with Data from a Tilt-and-Roll Buoy
- 1.- Introduction
- 2.- Basic data
- 3·- Data Fourier transforms
- 4.- Population functions
- 5.- Spectral estimates
- 6.- Consequences of statistical linear wave theory
- 7.- Simulation theory
- 8.- Characteristic function for the spectral estimates
- 9.- The central moments for the spectral estimates
- 10.- Expectations and second-order central moments
- 11.- Spreading-function characterization
- 12.- Centered Fourier coefficients
- 13.- Bias and error for 00 and S0
- 14.- Accuracy of the second-order approximations
- 15.- Conclusions
- REFERENCES
- Chapter 15. Extremal Statistics in Wave Climatology
- 1.- Introduction
- 2.- Problem No .1
- 3.- Problem No. 2
- 4.- Return period and encounter probability
- 5.- Asymptotic extremal probability laws
- 6.- Plotting position formula
- 7.- The use of plotting paper
- 8.- Extrapolation to longer return periods
- 9.- The right-tail function
- 10.- Problem No .3
- 11.- Probabilities for the highest wave and associated variables
- 12.- An example of extremal estimates by extrapolation
- 13.- Plotting and distribution formulae
- 14·- Sample variability
- 15.- Population assumptions
- 16.- The greatest danger
- 17.- Extremal prediction by model building
- 18.- The joint-probability method
- 19.- State of art in hindcast procedures
- 20.- Sources of error in modeling
- 21.- Possible future improvements
- 22.- Summary
- REFERENCES
- Chapter 16. Experimental Characteristics of Wind Waves
- REFERENCES
- Chapter 17. Generation and Dissipation of Wind Waves
- REFERENCES
- Chapter 18. Mathematical Models for Wave Forecasting
- REFERENCES
- Chapter 19. The Simulation and Measurement of Random Ocean Wave Statistics
- 1.- Introduction
- 2.- Sea state spectra
- 3.- The Monte Carlo simulation
- 4.- Statistical parameters of a random sea
- 5.- Simulation results
- 6.- Comparison to data
- 7.- Conclusions
- APPENDIX A
- APPENDIX B
- REFERENCES
- PEOCEEDINGS OF THE INTEENATIONAL SCHOOL OF PHYSICS « ENEICO FEEMI »
