Climbing Anchors
3rd Edition
Published on 2. July 2013
224 pages
978-1-4930-0133-0 (ISBN)
Description
This completely revised and updated edition with all new color photos brings together in a single volume the anchoring systems most popular among climbers. Most climbers today learn their craft on artificial climbing walls and on sport routes with fixed protection. Their first efforts to lead on trad routes often come as a rude shock--they find that they haven't the skills and training to safeguard the climb or to set up solid belays. This new edition of Climbing Anchors is the climber's complete and authoritative source of information on protection, from fundamental knots to sophisticated rigging and equalizing skills.
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John Long | Bob Gaines
Climbing Anchors
Book
07/2013
3rd Edition
Falcon Guides
€25.50
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Persons
John Long is the author of the best-selling How to Rock Climb!, the world's foremost book of climbing instruction, now in its fifth edition. He lives in Venice, California.
Content
- Climbing Anchors
- Contents
- Acknowledgments
- Preface
- Anchor Failure
- Revisiting the Cordelette
- Escaping the Belay
- Introduction
- Secure
- When Does "Good Enough" Become Too Much?
- SRENE-Sound Practice, But Not the Final Word in Anchors
- About This Guide
- A Brief History of Rock Hardware
- Part I: Simple Anchors
- Chapter 1: Natural Anchors
- Trees
- Shrubs and Bushes
- Boulders and Blocks
- Horns
- Threading Tunnels
- Chockstones
- Chapter 2: Passive Chocks
- Tapers
- Oppositional Nuts
- Offset Tapers
- Micro-Tapers (Micro-Nuts)
- All the Rest
- Removing Passive Chocks
- Chapter 3: Mechanical Chocks
- Spring-Loaded Camming Devices (SLCDs)
- Sliding Nuts
- Summary
- Chapter 4: Fixed Gear
- Pitons
- Bolts
- Cold Shuts
- Webbing (Sling Material)
- Cordage
- Chapter 5: Fall Forces and the Jesus Nut
- Static and Dynamic Forces
- Dynamic Forces in a Fall
- The Top Piece
- Conclusion
- Chapter 6: Judging the Direction of Pull
- Direction of Pull and Anchor Building
- Swing
- Direction of Pull on Primary Placements
- Chapter 7: Knots for Anchoring
- Ring Bend
- Double Fisherman's
- Overhand on a Bight and Figure Eight on a Bight
- Clove Hitch
- Bowline-on-a-Bight
- Munter Hitch
- Knot Strength
- Part II: Anchor Systems
- Chapter 8: SRENE Anchors
- Redundancy: The Ongoing Discussion
- Chapter 9: Belay Anchors
- Building Belay Anchors-A Step-by-Step Process
- Static and Pre-equalized Systems
- Cordelettes
- The Sliding X
- The Equalette
- Composite Anchors: Cordelette, Sliding X, and Equalette
- What's Best for Beginners?
- Upward Oppositional Anchors
- Belay Positions
- Anchor Test Results
- Chapter 10: Other Anchors
- Toprope Anchors
- Rappel Anchors
- Bivouac Anchors
- Big Wall Anchors
- Review
- Conclusion
- Appendix
- Gear Manufacturers and Sources
- Essential Reading
- Supplemental Instruction
- Index
- About the Authors
