
Climbing Anchors
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Content
- Climbing Anchors
- Contents
- Acknowledgments
- Preface
- Anchor Failure
- Revisiting the Cordelette
- Escaping the Belay
- Introduction
- Secure
- When Does "Good Enough" Become Too Much?
- SRENE-Sound Practice, But Not the Final Word in Anchors
- About This Guide
- A Brief History of Rock Hardware
- Part I: Simple Anchors
- Chapter 1: Natural Anchors
- Trees
- Shrubs and Bushes
- Boulders and Blocks
- Horns
- Threading Tunnels
- Chockstones
- Chapter 2: Passive Chocks
- Tapers
- Oppositional Nuts
- Offset Tapers
- Micro-Tapers (Micro-Nuts)
- All the Rest
- Removing Passive Chocks
- Chapter 3: Mechanical Chocks
- Spring-Loaded Camming Devices (SLCDs)
- Sliding Nuts
- Summary
- Chapter 4: Fixed Gear
- Pitons
- Bolts
- Cold Shuts
- Webbing (Sling Material)
- Cordage
- Chapter 5: Fall Forces and the Jesus Nut
- Static and Dynamic Forces
- Dynamic Forces in a Fall
- The Top Piece
- Conclusion
- Chapter 6: Judging the Direction of Pull
- Direction of Pull and Anchor Building
- Swing
- Direction of Pull on Primary Placements
- Chapter 7: Knots for Anchoring
- Ring Bend
- Double Fisherman's
- Overhand on a Bight and Figure Eight on a Bight
- Clove Hitch
- Bowline-on-a-Bight
- Munter Hitch
- Knot Strength
- Part II: Anchor Systems
- Chapter 8: SRENE Anchors
- Redundancy: The Ongoing Discussion
- Chapter 9: Belay Anchors
- Building Belay Anchors-A Step-by-Step Process
- Static and Pre-equalized Systems
- Cordelettes
- The Sliding X
- The Equalette
- Composite Anchors: Cordelette, Sliding X, and Equalette
- What's Best for Beginners?
- Upward Oppositional Anchors
- Belay Positions
- Anchor Test Results
- Chapter 10: Other Anchors
- Toprope Anchors
- Rappel Anchors
- Bivouac Anchors
- Big Wall Anchors
- Review
- Conclusion
- Appendix
- Gear Manufacturers and Sources
- Essential Reading
- Supplemental Instruction
- Index
- About the Authors
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