Textile Technology

Name: Textile Technology | An Introduction
Brand: Hanser Publications
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An Introduction

Thomas Gries Dieter Veit Burkhard Wulfhorst(Author)

Hanser Publications (Publisher)

1st Edition

Published on 15. January 2015

457 pages

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978-1-56990-566-1 (ISBN)

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Content

Intro
Preface to the Second Edition
Preface to the First Edition
Preface to the First German Edition
1 Introduction
1.1 Why Are There Fibers and Yarns?
1.1.1 Tenacity and Elongation
1.1.2 Surface and Porosity
1.1.3 Mechanics of Solid Bodies and Textile Structures
1.2 Evolution of Textile Technology
1.3 Production Stages
1.4 Typical Products Made from Natural and Man-Made Fibers
1.5 Yarns
1.6 Textiles
1.7 Textile Products
1.8 Multiscale Model
1.9 Importance of the Textile Industry
1.10 World Trade with Textiles
2 Raw Materials
2.1 Natural Fibers
2.1.1 Plant Fibers
2.1.1.1 Cotton (CO)
2.1.1.2 Flax (Linen) (LI)
2.1.1.3 Other Bast and Hard Fibers
2.1.2 Animal Fibers
2.1.2.1 Wool (Sheep's Wool
WO) and Fine Animal Hair
2.1.2.2 Silk (Mulberry Silk
SE)
2.1.3 Mineral Fibers
2.2 Chemical Fibers
2.2.1 Manufacturing Processes
2.2.2 Chemical Fibers from Natural Polymers
2.2.2.1 Viscose Fibers (CV)
2.2.2.2 Lyocell Fibers (CLY)
2.2.2.3 Cupro Fibers (CUP)
2.2.2.4 Acetate Fibers (CA)
2.2.3 Chemical Fibers from Synthetic Polymers
2.2.3.1 Mechanisms for the Generation of Macromolecules
2.2.4 Chemical Fibers from Inorganic Raw Materials
2.2.4.1 Glass Fibers (GF)
2.2.4.2 Carbon Fibers (CF)
2.2.4.3 Metal Fibers (MTF)
2.2.5 Further Processing
2.2.5.1 Drawing
2.2.5.2 Texturing
2.2.5.3 Production of Staple Fibers
2.3 Examples
2.3.1 Jeans
2.3.2 Carpet
2.3.3 Airbags
3 Principles and Machinery for Yarn Production
3.1 Cotton Spinning
3.1.1 Spinning Preparation Machines
3.1.1.1 Bale Opening
3.1.1.2 Opening and Cleaning
3.1.1.3 Mixing
3.1.1.4 Carding
3.1.1.5 Draw Frames
3.1.1.6 Homogenization of the Sliver
3.1.2 Combing Room
3.1.2.1 Purpose of Combing
3.1.2.2 Combing Machine
3.1.3 Ring Spinning Process
3.1.3.1 Flyer Spinning
3.1.3.2 Ring Spinning
3.1.3.3 Compact Spinning
3.1.4 Nonconventional Spinning Principles
3.1.4.1 OE-Rotor Spinning
3.1.4.2 Air-Jet Spinning
3.1.4.3 Air False-Twist Wrap-Spinning
3.1.4.4 Summary of Other Nonconventional Spinning Methods
3.1.4.5 Comparison of the Most Important Nonconventional Spinning Methods
3.2 Special Spinning Methods
3.2.1 Carded Woolen Spinning
3.2.1.1 Carding
3.2.1.2 Nonconventional Carded Woolen Spinning
3.2.2 Worsted Spinning
3.2.2.1 Intersecting Gill Box and Chain Gill Box
3.2.3 Mock-Worsted Spinning
3.3 Development Trends
3.3.1 Machines for Spinning Preparation
3.3.2 Production of Staple Fiber Yarns with Defined Properties
3.3.3 Production Increase of Ring Spinning Frames
3.3.4 Ring/Traveler Combination
3.3.5 Sliver Spinning
3.3.6 Compact and Condension Spinning
3.3.7 Process Control Engineering
3.4 Fineness Measurements of Fibers and Yarns
3.4.1 Length Numbering
3.4.2 Mass/Weight Numbering
3.5 Summary of the Measurement Systems
3.5.1 Spinning Preparation
3.5.2 Combing Room
3.5.3 Ring Spinning
3.5.4 Rotor Spinning
3.6 Examples
3.6.1 Jeans
3.6.2 Carpet
3.6.3 Airbag
4 Principles and Machinery for Production of Woven Fabrics
4.1 Production Principles
4.2 Weaving Preparation
4.2.1 Winding
4.2.2 Twisting
4.2.3 Preparation of the Warp Beam
4.2.4 Warping
4.2.5 Section Warping
4.2.6 Sizing
4.3 Construction of Woven Fabrics
4.3.1 Definitions of Woven Fabrics
4.3.2 Repeating Pattern
4.3.3 Floatation
4.3.4 Weave Diagram
4.3.5 Weave Symbol
4.3.6 Basic Weave Patterns
4.3.6.1 Plain Weave
4.3.6.2 Twill Weave
4.3.6.3 Atlas or Satin Weave
4.3.7 Special Weaving Techniques
4.3.7.1 Cord and Velveteen
4.3.7.2 Terry Woven
4.3.7.3 Two-Ply Fabric
4.4 Design and Principle of Weaving Looms
4.4.1 Warp Let-Off Systems
4.4.2 Machines with Eccentric Drive
4.4.3 Machines with Shaft Drive
4.4.4 Jacquard Looms
4.4.5 Shuttle Loom
4.4.6 Projectile Loom
4.4.7 Rapier Loom
4.4.8 Jet Loom
4.4.9 Multiphase Loom
4.4.10 Weft Insertion Speed
4.4.11 Open-Reed Weaving
4.5 Development Trends
4.6 Examples
4.6.1 Jeans
4.6.2 Carpet
4.6.3 Airbag
5 Processes and Machines for Knitwear Production
5.1 Knitting
5.1.1 Design and Structure
5.1.2 Loop Formation
5.1.2.1 Jacquard Technique
5.1.3 Knitting Machines
5.1.3.1 Flat-Bed Knitting Machines
5.1.3.2 Circular Knitting Machines
5.1.3.3 Spacer Knitting Machines
5.2 Warp Knitting
5.2.1 Design and Structure
5.2.2 Warp-Knitting Machines
5.2.2.1 Coulier Warp-Knitting Machines
5.2.2.2 Warp-Knitting Machines
5.2.2.3 Warp-Knitted Spacer Fabrics
5.3 Development Trends
5.4 Examples
5.4.1 Carpets
6 Processes and Machines for Nonwovens Production
6.1 Basics
6.2 Market
6.3 Raw Materials
6.4 Processes and Machines
6.4.1 Processes of Web Formation
6.4.1.1 Mechanical Web Formation Processes
6.4.1.2 Aerodynamic Web Formation Processes
6.4.1.3 Hydrodynamic Web Formation Processes
6.4.1.4 Spun-Bonded Nonwovens
6.4.1.4.1 Melt-Blown Process
6.4.1.4.2 Reifenhäuser Process
6.4.1.5 Market Overview
6.4.2 Processes of Web Consolidation
6.4.2.1 Web Bonding by Friction Force
6.4.2.1.1 Needle Punching
6.4.2.1.2 Hydroentangling
6.4.2.2 Thermal Bonding
6.4.2.3 Chemical Bonding
6.4.2.4 Stitch Bonding
6.4.2.5 Market Overview
6.4.3 Drying
6.4.4 Finishing
6.4.4.1 Processes for the Improvement of Textile Drapeability
6.4.4.2 Processes for Leather Finishing
6.4.4.3 Heat-Sealing Coating
6.5 Applications
7 Braiding Processes and Machines
7.1 Classification of Braids
7.1.1 Pattern
7.2 Braiding Processes
7.2.1 Conventional Braiding Processes
7.2.1.1 Strand-Forming Braiding Machine
7.2.1.2 Lace Braiding Machine
7.2.1.3 Package Braiding Machine
7.2.2 Processes for the Production of 3-D Braids
7.2.2.1 Circular Braiding (Multilayer-Interlock Braiding or Through-the-Thickness Braiding) and Overbraiding
7.2.2.2 Magnaweave/Omniweave or Four-Step Braiding Processes
7.2.2.3 Two-Step Braiding Process
7.2.2.4 Further Developments of the Known Processes
7.2.2.5 3-D Rotary Braiding
7.3 2-D and 3-D Braids
7.4 Development Trends
8 Noncrimp Fabrics
8.1 From Warp-Knit to Multiaxial Fabric
8.2 Biaxial Noncrimp Fabrics
8.2.1 Structure
8.2.2 Principle
8.2.3 Stitch Types
8.3 Multiaxial Noncrimp Fabrics
8.3.1 Structure
8.3.2 Principle
8.4 Spacer Noncrimp Fabrics
8.4.1 Structure
8.4.2 Principle
8.5 Weft-Knitted NCF
8.5.1 Structure
8.5.2 Principle
8.6 Development Trends
9 Textile Finishing
9.1 Pretreatment
9.1.1 Dry Pretreatment
9.1.2 Wet Pretreatment
9.1.3 Fiber-Specific Processes
9.1.3.1 Cotton
9.1.3.2 Wool
9.1.3.3 Silk
9.2 Drying
9.3 Coloration
9.3.1 Dyeing
9.3.2 Printing
9.4 Appret
9.4.1 Chemical Appret
9.4.2 Mechanical Finishing
9.4.3 Thermal Finishing
9.5 Coating
9.6 Embroidery
9.6.1 Standard Embroidery (Sozni Stitch)
9.6.2 Chain Stitch Embroidery (Ari Stitch)
9.6.3 Tailored Fiber Placement (TFP)
9.7 Development Trends
9.8 Examples
9.8.1 Jeans
9.8.2 Carpets
9.8.3 Airbags
10 Processes and Machines for Clothing Manufacture
10.1 Separation
10.1.1 Pattern Design
10.1.2 Directional Orientation
10.1.3 Pattern Orientation
10.1.4 Types of Patterns
10.1.5 Processes for the Construction and Transfer of Patterns
10.1.6 Cutting
10.1.7 Marking
10.1.8 Work Preparation
10.2 Joining Processes
10.2.1 Sewing
10.2.1.1 Take-Up Lever
10.2.1.2 Thread Tightener
10.2.1.3 Transport
10.2.1.4 Seam Classification
10.2.2 Bonding and Setting
10.2.3 Welding
10.3 Forming
10.4 Automation
10.5 Development Trends
11 Technical Textiles
11.1 Definitions
11.2 Examples of Technical Textiles
11.2.1 Fiber-Reinforced Material (FRM)
11.2.1.1 Fiber-Reinforced Plastics
11.2.1.2 Conveyor Belts
11.2.1.3 Tires
11.2.2 Protective Textiles (Mobiltech, Protech)
11.2.2.1 Mobility Textiles (Mobiltech)
11.2.2.2 Airbags
11.2.2.3 Armoring of Automobiles
11.2.2.4 Protective Garments for Firefighters
11.2.3 Textiles for Civil Engineering (Buildtech)
11.2.3.1 Textile-Reinforced Concrete
11.2.3.2 Coated Textiles
11.2.3.3 Ecological Laboratory House of TU Dresden
11.2.4 Geotextiles (Geotech)
11.2.5 Medical Textiles (Medtech)
11.2.5.1 Hygiene Textiles
11.2.5.2 Medical Textiles
11.2.5.2.1 Extracorporeal Medical Textiles
11.2.5.2.2 Implants (Intracorporeal Textiles)
11.3 Development Trends
12 Textile Testing
12.1 Standards
12.2 Testing Chamber Climate
12.2.1 Determination of Testing Climate
12.3 Fiber Testing
12.3.1 Fineness (Linear Density)
12.3.1.1 Importance
12.3.1.2 Characteristic Values
12.3.1.3 Measuring Principles
12.3.2 Fiber Length
12.3.2.1 Staple Diagram
12.3.2.2 Measuring Methods
12.4 Yarn Testing
12.4.1 Fineness
12.4.2 Twist
12.4.2.1 Spun fiber Yarns
12.4.2.2 Filament Yarns
12.4.2.3 Ply-Yarns
12.4.3 Mechanical Properties
12.4.3.1 Measurement
12.4.4 Evenness
12.4.4.1 Measuring Principle
12.4.4.2 Diagram
12.4.4.3 CV Value
12.4.4.4 Normal Spectrogram
12.5 Textiles
12.5.1 Geometry and Design
12.5.1.1 Thickness
12.5.1.2 Length and Width
12.5.2 Tenacity (Stress) and Elongation (Strain)
12.5.3 Behavior against Water
12.5.3.1 Water Absorption
12.5.3.2 Water-Retention Capability
12.5.3.3 Water Repellency
12.6 Ready-Made Textiles
12.6.1 Surface Changes
12.6.1.1 Abrasion Resistance
12.6.1.2 Pilling
12.6.2 Behavior against Humidity and Water
12.6.2.1 Change of Geometric Dimensions
12.6.3 Colorfastness
12.6.3.1 Definitions
12.6.3.2 Gray Scale
12.6.3.3 Blue Scale (DIN EN ISO 105-B01 and -B02)
12.6.4 Fall and Drapeability
12.6.4.1 Measuring Methods
12.7 Physiology of Clothing
12.7.1 Heat Balance of the Human Body
12.7.2 Hohenstein Skin Model
12.7.3 Thermoregulation Model
12.8 Technical Textiles
12.8.1 Fibers
12.8.2 Yarns
12.8.3 Textiles
12.8.4 Composites
12.9 Development Trends
13 Disposal and Recycling of Textiles
13.1 Circulation of Material in the Textile Industry
13.1.1 Life Cycle of a Product
13.1.2 Economic Cycle and Waste Law
13.2 Material Recycling
13.2.1 Fiber Retrieval
13.2.2 Clothing
13.2.3 Carpets
13.2.4 Automotive Textiles
13.2.4.1 Seat Covers
13.2.4.2 Safety Belts
13.3 Processing and Treatment of Reprocessed Fibers
13.3.1 Preparation
13.3.2 Processing
13.4 Thermal Material Recycling
13.5 Depolymerization
13.6 Thermal Recycling
13.7 Environmental Issues in Textile Production
13.8 Development Trends
13.9 Examples
13.9.1 Jeans
13.9.2 Carpets
13.9.3 Airbags
14 Simulation
14.1 Simulation with and without Computer
14.2 Cost Effectiveness and Validation
14.3 Modeling
14.3.1 Types of Modeling
14.3.2 Expert Systems and Knowledge-Based Models
14.4 Analytical Simulation of Machines and Processes
14.4.1 Optimizing Machine Settings
14.4.2 Optimizing Product Quality
14.4.3 Simulating Yarn Production
14.4.4 Simulating Fabric Production
14.4.5 Simulating Finishing Techniques
14.4.6 Practical Advice
14.5 Numerical Simulation of Machines and Processes
14.5.1 Neural Networks
14.5.1.1 Biological Background
14.5.1.2 Model
14.5.1.3 Applications
14.5.1.4 Practical Advice
14.5.2 Genetic and Evolutionary Algorithms
14.5.2.1 Basics
14.5.2.2 Evolutionary Theory
14.5.2.3 Genotype and Phenotype
14.5.2.4 Mathematical Model
14.5.2.5 Applications
14.5.3 Fuzzy Logic
14.5.3.1 Basics
14.5.3.2 Mathematical Model
14.5.3.3 Applications
14.5.3.4 Practical Advice
14.6 Simulation of Yarns and Textile Structures
14.6.1 Yarns
14.6.2 Textile Structures
14.7 Industry 4.0: Control Systems and Cognitive Machines
About the Authors
Thomas Gries
Dieter Veit
Burkhard Wulfhorst
Coauthors
Acknowledgments
Index

Raw materials Yarn production Fabric production Knitwear production Nonwovens production Braiding processes and machines Noncrimp fabrics Textile finishing Clothing manufacture Technical textiles Textile testing Disposal and recycling Simulation

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Textile Technology

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