The Ascent of the Matterhorn
INCLUDING THE FORGOTTEN PHOTOGRAPHS
Published on 29. May 2025
Book
Paperback/Softback
288 pages
978-1-78334-184-9 (ISBN)
Description
Few thought of travelling to the Alps until John Ruskin extolled their rugged beauty in 1842. More than anyone, it was 25-year-old Edward Whymper who imbued them once again with a sense of alarming mystery after his Alpine memoir and first ascent of the Matterhorn. Inspiring the birth of mountain climbing, his book is still as fresh as when he wrote it as a love letter to the unique Alpine world and the fierceness of nature he discovered. Armed with a pick-axe, he climbed in tweeds and leather shoes, alone or with local hunters and craftsmen who carried the ropes, stores, tents and hacked steps in the ice. Even today, the mountain is treacherous and has recorded over 500 deaths since Whymper reached its peak.
As an engraver, Edward Whymper enthusiastically embraced the rapidly advancing art of photography. In 1874, he took a portable camera and plates up the Matterhorn-a first-to turn photographs into engravings for a new edition of his book, and, in 1883, to include as lantern slides with talks (inspiring in teenage Winston Churchill, for one, a lifelong passion for the Alps). In this volume, these photographs are added to Whymper's original engravings and Alpine advice, to accompany his dramatic story-and many appear in print for the first time.
As an engraver, Edward Whymper enthusiastically embraced the rapidly advancing art of photography. In 1874, he took a portable camera and plates up the Matterhorn-a first-to turn photographs into engravings for a new edition of his book, and, in 1883, to include as lantern slides with talks (inspiring in teenage Winston Churchill, for one, a lifelong passion for the Alps). In this volume, these photographs are added to Whymper's original engravings and Alpine advice, to accompany his dramatic story-and many appear in print for the first time.
Reviews / Votes
'Unapproachable in Alpine literature... vivid memories of his happy time... you can almost hear the tinkle of bells on the Alps; you breathe the fresh fragrance of the pine trees.' THE TIMES; 'A classic of mountaineering literature and all storytelling.' ; DAILY TELEGRAPH; 'The vigour and power that only personal observation can give.' BIRMINGHAM POST; 'An exceptional book.' HERALD (GLASGOW); 'Still a better introduction to the Dauphine Alps and some of the finest valleys and high passes of central Europe than from modern climbing guide books.' SYDNEY MORNING HERALDMore details
Language
English
Place of publication
London
United Kingdom
Product notice
Paperback (trade)
Unsewn / adhesive bound
Illustrations
130 b/w illustrations; 56 b/w photographs
Dimensions
Height: 234 mm
Width: 156 mm
Thickness: 17 mm
Weight
498 gr
ISBN-13
978-1-78334-184-9 (9781783341849)
Copyright in bibliographic data and cover images is held by Nielsen Book Services Limited or by the publishers or by their respective licensors: all rights reserved.
Schweitzer Classification
Persons
Edward Whymper was born into a family of engravers in Lambeth, South London, and soon became a celebrity engraver, illustrating Charles Darwin's On the Origin of Species and Heinrich Schliemann's books on Troy and Mycenae. After ascending the Matterhorn, he travelled the world and explored Greenland and the Andes, while dreaming of conquering the Himalayas and Mount Kilimanjaro.
Theresa May was Britain's Prime Minister and MP of Maidenhead from 1997 to 2024 and is an author. She shares her passion for the Alps with Edward Whymper and he was one of her choices for a dream dinner party.
Theresa May was Britain's Prime Minister and MP of Maidenhead from 1997 to 2024 and is an author. She shares her passion for the Alps with Edward Whymper and he was one of her choices for a dream dinner party.
Content
Foreword by Theresa May
Edward Whymper
1860-1863
Preface
I Introductory
II The Ascent of Mont Pelvoux
III My First Scramble on the Matterhorn
IV Renewed Attempts to Ascend the Matterhorn
V The Val Tournenche-Direct Pass from Breuil to Zermatt Breuljoch)-Zermatt-First Ascent of the Grand Tournalin
VI Our Sixth Attempt to Ascend the Matterhorn
1864
VII From St. Michel to La Berarde by the Col des Aiguilles d'Arve, Col de Martignare, and the Breche de la Meije to la Brerarde
VIII The First Ascent of the Pointe des Ecrins
IX From Val Louise to La Berarde by the Col de Pilatte
X The First Passage of the Col de Triolet, and First Ascents of Mont Dolent, Aiguille de Tre la Tete, and Aiguille d'Argentiere
XI The First Passage of the Moming Pass-Zinal to Zermatt
XII The First Ascent of the Grand Cornier
XIII The Ascent of the Dent Blanche
XIV Lost on the Col d'Herens-My Seventh Attempt to Ascend the Matterhorn
XV The First Passage of the Col Dolent
XVI The First Ascent of the Aiguille Verte
XVII The First Passage of the Col de Talefre
XVIII The First Ascent of the Ruinette-the Matterhorn
XIX The First Ascent of the Matterhorn
XX The Descent of the Matterhorn
Appendix
A The Death of Bennen
B Struck by Lightning upon the Matterhor
C Note on the Highest Mountain in France
D Subsequent History of the Matterhorn
Endnotes
Cross Section of the Matterhorn
Index
Edward Whymper
1860-1863
Preface
I Introductory
II The Ascent of Mont Pelvoux
III My First Scramble on the Matterhorn
IV Renewed Attempts to Ascend the Matterhorn
V The Val Tournenche-Direct Pass from Breuil to Zermatt Breuljoch)-Zermatt-First Ascent of the Grand Tournalin
VI Our Sixth Attempt to Ascend the Matterhorn
1864
VII From St. Michel to La Berarde by the Col des Aiguilles d'Arve, Col de Martignare, and the Breche de la Meije to la Brerarde
VIII The First Ascent of the Pointe des Ecrins
IX From Val Louise to La Berarde by the Col de Pilatte
X The First Passage of the Col de Triolet, and First Ascents of Mont Dolent, Aiguille de Tre la Tete, and Aiguille d'Argentiere
XI The First Passage of the Moming Pass-Zinal to Zermatt
XII The First Ascent of the Grand Cornier
XIII The Ascent of the Dent Blanche
XIV Lost on the Col d'Herens-My Seventh Attempt to Ascend the Matterhorn
XV The First Passage of the Col Dolent
XVI The First Ascent of the Aiguille Verte
XVII The First Passage of the Col de Talefre
XVIII The First Ascent of the Ruinette-the Matterhorn
XIX The First Ascent of the Matterhorn
XX The Descent of the Matterhorn
Appendix
A The Death of Bennen
B Struck by Lightning upon the Matterhor
C Note on the Highest Mountain in France
D Subsequent History of the Matterhorn
Endnotes
Cross Section of the Matterhorn
Index