Frommer's Italy 2013
8th Edition
Published on 16. October 2012
Book
Paperback/Softback
976 pages
978-1-118-27846-8 (ISBN)
Description
Full-color throughout
Free full-color, foldout map
Completely updated every year
* Insider advice on avoiding the crowds as you explore some of Italy's greatest gems, from the Uffizi in Florence to the Vatican Museum in Rome, and from the ruins at Pompeii to Venice's St. Mark's basilica. Plus tips for navigating the country's lovely but less-traveled corners, like the Marches, the Dolomites, and even Sardinia.
* Where to find the absolute best seafood in Venice, the loveliest vineyards in Tuscany, the tastiest pizza in Naples, and, of course, the finest gelato that Italy has to offer.
* Insightful commentary on Italy's dazzling array of art and architectural masterpieces, from Michelangelo's statue of David to the glories of St. Peter's in Rome.
* Opinionated reviews. No bland descriptions and lukewarm recommendations. Our expert writers are passionate about their destinations--they tell it like it is in an engaging and helpful way.
* Exact prices listed for every establishment and activity--no other guides offer such detailed, candid reviews of hotels and restaurants. We include the very best, but also emphasize moderately priced choices for real people.
* User-friendly features including star ratings and special icons to point readers to great finds, excellent values, insider tips, best bets for kids, special moments, and overrated experiences.
Free full-color, foldout map
Completely updated every year
* Insider advice on avoiding the crowds as you explore some of Italy's greatest gems, from the Uffizi in Florence to the Vatican Museum in Rome, and from the ruins at Pompeii to Venice's St. Mark's basilica. Plus tips for navigating the country's lovely but less-traveled corners, like the Marches, the Dolomites, and even Sardinia.
* Where to find the absolute best seafood in Venice, the loveliest vineyards in Tuscany, the tastiest pizza in Naples, and, of course, the finest gelato that Italy has to offer.
* Insightful commentary on Italy's dazzling array of art and architectural masterpieces, from Michelangelo's statue of David to the glories of St. Peter's in Rome.
* Opinionated reviews. No bland descriptions and lukewarm recommendations. Our expert writers are passionate about their destinations--they tell it like it is in an engaging and helpful way.
* Exact prices listed for every establishment and activity--no other guides offer such detailed, candid reviews of hotels and restaurants. We include the very best, but also emphasize moderately priced choices for real people.
* User-friendly features including star ratings and special icons to point readers to great finds, excellent values, insider tips, best bets for kids, special moments, and overrated experiences.
More details
Content
List of Maps viii
1 THE BEST OF ITALY 1
The Most Unforgettable Italy Experiences 2
The Best City Experiences 3
The Best Food & Drink Experiences 5
The Best Ways to See Italy Like a Local 6
The Best Family Experiences 7
The Best Museums 8
The Best Historic Experiences 9
The Best Charming Small-Town Experiences 11
The Best Free Experiences 12
The Best Gifts to Take Home 14
2 ITALY IN DEPTH 16
Italy Today 17
CUISINE AROUND THE COUNTRY 20
The Making of Italy 22
When to Go 44
ITALY CALENDAR OF EVENTS 45
Responsible Travel in Italy 48
ALL ABOUT VINO 51
3 SUGGESTED ITALY ITINERARIES 53
The Regions in Brief 54
Italy Highlights 61
Italy for Families 64
An Art Lover's Week in Tuscany Beyond Florence 68
A Whistle-Stop Week in Italy for Food & Wine Lovers 71
Small Cities of the Italian North in 6 Days 73
4 ROME 76
The Best Rome Travel Experiences 77
Essentials 78
FAST FACTS: ROME 87
Exploring Rome 89
THE ETERNAL DRINKING WATER CITY 92
PAPAL AUDIENCES 99
Where to Eat 126
Shopping 145
Entertainment & Nightlife 151
Where to Stay 159
Side Trips from Rome: Tivoli, Ostia Antica & More 181
5 FLORENCE 189
The Best Travel Experiences in Florence 191
Essentials 192
FAST FACTS: FLORENCE 198
Exploring Florence 199
DISCOUNT TICKETS FOR THE CITY 202
ONE MAN & HIS DOME 205
PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA 206
Where to Eat 226
FAMILY-FRIENDLY EATING 231
A BIG STEP UP FROM ICE CREAM: FLORENTINE GELATO 234
Shopping 239
Entertainment & Nightlife 244
CAFE CULTURE 246
Where to Stay 248
A Side Trip to Fiesole 262
6 TUSCANY, UMBRIA & THE MARCHES 265
The Best Travel Experiences in Tuscany, Umbria & the Marches 266
The Chianti 267
DINING WITH DARIO 278
TUSCAN TOURS: BIKING, HORSEBACK RIDING & MORE 280
Siena 281
San Gimignano 295
Volterra 300
IN SEARCH OF CRAFTSMANSHIP 301
Lucca 306
CIRCUMNAVIGATING LUCCA'S WALLS 310
Pisa 313
THE BEST OF THE REST OF PISA 319
Arezzo 321
Montepulciano 325
UNDERGROUND TUNNELS & NOBLE WINE 327
Perugia 329
THE CITY OF CIOCCOLATO 332
PERUGIA'S "MEDIEVAL POMPEII" 335
Assisi 337
Gubbio 344
Spoleto 349
Orvieto 355
ORVIETO'S LIQUID GOLD 358
Le Marche 360
7 BOLOGNA & EMILIA-ROMAGNA 373
The Best Travel Experiences in Bologna & Emilia-Romagna 374
Bologna 374
FACTORY OF THE ARTS 380
THE WORLD'S GREATEST CHINA SHOP 392
Ferrara 393
Ravenna 400
Modena 408
THE LAND OF MOTORS 412
Parma 415
SAN MARINO: THE WORLD'S SMALLEST REPUBLIC 422
8 VENICE 424
The Best Travel Experiences in Venice 426
Essentials 427
VENICE BY THE NUMBERS 430
CRUISING THE CANALS 435
VENETIAN DIALECT 436
FAST FACTS: VENICE 437
Exploring Venice 439
VENICE DISCOUNTS 442
AN INSIDER'S LOOK AT THE PALAZZO DUCALE 449
THE ART OF THE GONDOLA 453
Exploring Venice's Islands 461
CARNEVALE A VENEZIA 464
Where to Eat 467
FISHY BUSINESS 470
FAMILY-FRIENDLY RESTAURANTS 473
Shopping 479
Entertainment & Nightlife 483
Where to Stay 486
9 THE VENETO & THE DOLOMITES 502
The Best Veneto & the Dolomites Travel Experiences 503
The Riviera del Brenta 504
Padua 508
Palladio's Vicenza 516
STROLL THROUGH PALLADIO'S WORKS 518
Verona 520
ART THOU, TRULY, ROMEO? 522
Treviso 532
THE WINE ROADS FROM TREVISO 534
Bassano del Grappa 536
ITALIAN FIREWATER: GRAPPA 537
Trieste 539
Cortina d'Ampezzo: Gateway to the Dolomites 546
Trent 552
10 MILAN, LOMBARDY & THE LAKES 557
The Best Milan, Lombardy & the Lakes Experiences 558
Milan (Milano) 560
FESTIVALS & MARKETS IN MILAN 561
FAST FACTS: MILAN 567
A TASTE OF BITTER LOVE 577
MILAN IN STYLE 583
STROLLING THROUGH MILAN 586
HOW THE MILANESE UNWIND 588
Bergamo 592
Mantua (Mantova) 597
Lake Garda (Lago di Garda) 602
Lake Como (Lago di Como) 609
Lake Maggiore (Lago Maggiore) & the Borromean Islands 620
11 PIEDMONT & VALLE D'AOSTA 625
The Best Piedmont & Valle d'Aosta Experiences 626
Turin (Torino) 627
FAST FACTS: TURIN 631
PIAZZE & PARKS 636
The Piedmont Wine Country 642
HORSES & DONKEYS 644
Aosta & Valle d'Aosta 649
INTO THE GREAT OUTDOORS 652
MONT BLANC BY CABLE CAR 655
12 GENOA & THE ITALIAN RIVIERA 657
The Best Genoa & Riviera Experiences 658
Genoa (Genova) 660
FAST FACTS: FLORENCE 665
WALK LIKE A GENOVESE 669
The Riviera di Ponente: San Remo 675
THE CAFE & BAR SCENE 679
The Riviera di Levante: Camogli, Santa Margherita Ligure & Portofi no 679
AN EXCURSION TO SAN FRUTTUOSO 685
The Cinque Terre 689
13 CAMPANIA: NAPLES, POMPEII & THE AMALFI COAST 700
The Best Campania Travel Experiences 702
Naples 704
The Phlegrean Fields & Herculaneum 730
TREADING LIGHTLY ON MOUNT VESUVIUS 730
Pompeii 735
The Emerald Island of Ischia 740
Sorrento 747
Capri 754
Positano 769
Amalfi 774
Ravello 780
Paestum & Its Glorious Greek Temples 786
The Pontine Islands 787
14 PUGLIA 791
The Best Travel Experiences in Puglia 795
The Valle d'Itria: Trullo Country 796
TRULLI GENIUS 798
THE BEST MASSERIA HOTELS 806
Lecce & the Best of the Salento 808
Bari 814
North of Bari 817
15 SICILY 822
The Best Travel Experiences in Sicily 825
ORGANIZING YOUR TIME 826
Essentials 826
Taormina 830
MEET MIGHTY MOUNT ETNA 835
Siracusa 842
A GIGANTIC TEARDROP RUNS THROUGH IT 849
PADDLING AMONG THE PAPYRUS 850
Piazza Armerina 853
Agrigento & the Valley of the Temples 856
WINE TOURING BETWEEN THE RUINS 860
Selinunte 860
Palermo 863
ESCAPING THE MADNESS 869
THE ORATORIES OF GIACOMO SERPOTTA: PALERMO'S PUTTI-PALOOZA 870
MEN OF DISHONOR 874
STREET EATS 876
Cefalø 885
CLIMBING THE CRAG 886
ON THE ROAD FROM PALERMO 888
The Aeolian Islands 889
16 SARDINIA 898
The Best Sardinia Travel Experiences 900
Essentials 900
Northeastern Sardinia: Costa Smeralda & Maddalena Archipelago 902
Cagliari 912
Southwestern Sardinia 916
Southeastern Sardinia: Villasimius & the Costa Rei 919
17 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO ITALY 921
Getting There 922
Getting Around 924
Tips on Accommodations 931
FAST FACTS: ITALY 933
18 MOLTO ITALIANO 943
Index 947
1 THE BEST OF ITALY 1
The Most Unforgettable Italy Experiences 2
The Best City Experiences 3
The Best Food & Drink Experiences 5
The Best Ways to See Italy Like a Local 6
The Best Family Experiences 7
The Best Museums 8
The Best Historic Experiences 9
The Best Charming Small-Town Experiences 11
The Best Free Experiences 12
The Best Gifts to Take Home 14
2 ITALY IN DEPTH 16
Italy Today 17
CUISINE AROUND THE COUNTRY 20
The Making of Italy 22
When to Go 44
ITALY CALENDAR OF EVENTS 45
Responsible Travel in Italy 48
ALL ABOUT VINO 51
3 SUGGESTED ITALY ITINERARIES 53
The Regions in Brief 54
Italy Highlights 61
Italy for Families 64
An Art Lover's Week in Tuscany Beyond Florence 68
A Whistle-Stop Week in Italy for Food & Wine Lovers 71
Small Cities of the Italian North in 6 Days 73
4 ROME 76
The Best Rome Travel Experiences 77
Essentials 78
FAST FACTS: ROME 87
Exploring Rome 89
THE ETERNAL DRINKING WATER CITY 92
PAPAL AUDIENCES 99
Where to Eat 126
Shopping 145
Entertainment & Nightlife 151
Where to Stay 159
Side Trips from Rome: Tivoli, Ostia Antica & More 181
5 FLORENCE 189
The Best Travel Experiences in Florence 191
Essentials 192
FAST FACTS: FLORENCE 198
Exploring Florence 199
DISCOUNT TICKETS FOR THE CITY 202
ONE MAN & HIS DOME 205
PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA 206
Where to Eat 226
FAMILY-FRIENDLY EATING 231
A BIG STEP UP FROM ICE CREAM: FLORENTINE GELATO 234
Shopping 239
Entertainment & Nightlife 244
CAFE CULTURE 246
Where to Stay 248
A Side Trip to Fiesole 262
6 TUSCANY, UMBRIA & THE MARCHES 265
The Best Travel Experiences in Tuscany, Umbria & the Marches 266
The Chianti 267
DINING WITH DARIO 278
TUSCAN TOURS: BIKING, HORSEBACK RIDING & MORE 280
Siena 281
San Gimignano 295
Volterra 300
IN SEARCH OF CRAFTSMANSHIP 301
Lucca 306
CIRCUMNAVIGATING LUCCA'S WALLS 310
Pisa 313
THE BEST OF THE REST OF PISA 319
Arezzo 321
Montepulciano 325
UNDERGROUND TUNNELS & NOBLE WINE 327
Perugia 329
THE CITY OF CIOCCOLATO 332
PERUGIA'S "MEDIEVAL POMPEII" 335
Assisi 337
Gubbio 344
Spoleto 349
Orvieto 355
ORVIETO'S LIQUID GOLD 358
Le Marche 360
7 BOLOGNA & EMILIA-ROMAGNA 373
The Best Travel Experiences in Bologna & Emilia-Romagna 374
Bologna 374
FACTORY OF THE ARTS 380
THE WORLD'S GREATEST CHINA SHOP 392
Ferrara 393
Ravenna 400
Modena 408
THE LAND OF MOTORS 412
Parma 415
SAN MARINO: THE WORLD'S SMALLEST REPUBLIC 422
8 VENICE 424
The Best Travel Experiences in Venice 426
Essentials 427
VENICE BY THE NUMBERS 430
CRUISING THE CANALS 435
VENETIAN DIALECT 436
FAST FACTS: VENICE 437
Exploring Venice 439
VENICE DISCOUNTS 442
AN INSIDER'S LOOK AT THE PALAZZO DUCALE 449
THE ART OF THE GONDOLA 453
Exploring Venice's Islands 461
CARNEVALE A VENEZIA 464
Where to Eat 467
FISHY BUSINESS 470
FAMILY-FRIENDLY RESTAURANTS 473
Shopping 479
Entertainment & Nightlife 483
Where to Stay 486
9 THE VENETO & THE DOLOMITES 502
The Best Veneto & the Dolomites Travel Experiences 503
The Riviera del Brenta 504
Padua 508
Palladio's Vicenza 516
STROLL THROUGH PALLADIO'S WORKS 518
Verona 520
ART THOU, TRULY, ROMEO? 522
Treviso 532
THE WINE ROADS FROM TREVISO 534
Bassano del Grappa 536
ITALIAN FIREWATER: GRAPPA 537
Trieste 539
Cortina d'Ampezzo: Gateway to the Dolomites 546
Trent 552
10 MILAN, LOMBARDY & THE LAKES 557
The Best Milan, Lombardy & the Lakes Experiences 558
Milan (Milano) 560
FESTIVALS & MARKETS IN MILAN 561
FAST FACTS: MILAN 567
A TASTE OF BITTER LOVE 577
MILAN IN STYLE 583
STROLLING THROUGH MILAN 586
HOW THE MILANESE UNWIND 588
Bergamo 592
Mantua (Mantova) 597
Lake Garda (Lago di Garda) 602
Lake Como (Lago di Como) 609
Lake Maggiore (Lago Maggiore) & the Borromean Islands 620
11 PIEDMONT & VALLE D'AOSTA 625
The Best Piedmont & Valle d'Aosta Experiences 626
Turin (Torino) 627
FAST FACTS: TURIN 631
PIAZZE & PARKS 636
The Piedmont Wine Country 642
HORSES & DONKEYS 644
Aosta & Valle d'Aosta 649
INTO THE GREAT OUTDOORS 652
MONT BLANC BY CABLE CAR 655
12 GENOA & THE ITALIAN RIVIERA 657
The Best Genoa & Riviera Experiences 658
Genoa (Genova) 660
FAST FACTS: FLORENCE 665
WALK LIKE A GENOVESE 669
The Riviera di Ponente: San Remo 675
THE CAFE & BAR SCENE 679
The Riviera di Levante: Camogli, Santa Margherita Ligure & Portofi no 679
AN EXCURSION TO SAN FRUTTUOSO 685
The Cinque Terre 689
13 CAMPANIA: NAPLES, POMPEII & THE AMALFI COAST 700
The Best Campania Travel Experiences 702
Naples 704
The Phlegrean Fields & Herculaneum 730
TREADING LIGHTLY ON MOUNT VESUVIUS 730
Pompeii 735
The Emerald Island of Ischia 740
Sorrento 747
Capri 754
Positano 769
Amalfi 774
Ravello 780
Paestum & Its Glorious Greek Temples 786
The Pontine Islands 787
14 PUGLIA 791
The Best Travel Experiences in Puglia 795
The Valle d'Itria: Trullo Country 796
TRULLI GENIUS 798
THE BEST MASSERIA HOTELS 806
Lecce & the Best of the Salento 808
Bari 814
North of Bari 817
15 SICILY 822
The Best Travel Experiences in Sicily 825
ORGANIZING YOUR TIME 826
Essentials 826
Taormina 830
MEET MIGHTY MOUNT ETNA 835
Siracusa 842
A GIGANTIC TEARDROP RUNS THROUGH IT 849
PADDLING AMONG THE PAPYRUS 850
Piazza Armerina 853
Agrigento & the Valley of the Temples 856
WINE TOURING BETWEEN THE RUINS 860
Selinunte 860
Palermo 863
ESCAPING THE MADNESS 869
THE ORATORIES OF GIACOMO SERPOTTA: PALERMO'S PUTTI-PALOOZA 870
MEN OF DISHONOR 874
STREET EATS 876
Cefalø 885
CLIMBING THE CRAG 886
ON THE ROAD FROM PALERMO 888
The Aeolian Islands 889
16 SARDINIA 898
The Best Sardinia Travel Experiences 900
Essentials 900
Northeastern Sardinia: Costa Smeralda & Maddalena Archipelago 902
Cagliari 912
Southwestern Sardinia 916
Southeastern Sardinia: Villasimius & the Costa Rei 919
17 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO ITALY 921
Getting There 922
Getting Around 924
Tips on Accommodations 931
FAST FACTS: ITALY 933
18 MOLTO ITALIANO 943
Index 947