Up and About
The Hard Road to Everest
Published on 1. November 2018
Book
Paperback/Softback
424 pages
978-1-911342-82-3 (ISBN)
Description
'A full and fascinating portrait of one of the great figures of mountaineering.' - Michael Palin
At dusk on 24 September 1975, Doug Scott and Dougal Haston became the first Britons to reach the summit of Everest as lead climbers on Chris Bonington's epic expedition to the mountain's immense south-west face.
As darkness fell, Scott and Haston scraped a small cave in the snow 100 metres below the summit and survived the highest bivouac ever - without bottled oxygen, sleeping bags and, as it turned out, frostbite. For Doug Scott, it was the fulfilment of a fortune-teller's prophecy given to his mother: that her eldest son would be in danger in a high place with the whole world watching.
Scott and Haston returned home national heroes with their image splashed across the front pages. Scott went on to become one of Britain's greatest ever mountaineers, pioneering new climbs in the remotest corners of the globe. His career spans the golden age of British climbing from the 1960s boom in outdoor adventure to the new wave of lightweight alpinism throughout the 1970s and 1980s.
In Up and About, the first volume of his autobiography, Scott tells his story from his birth in Nottingham during the darkest days of war to the summit of the world. Surviving the unplanned bivouac without oxygen near the summit of Everest widened the range of what and how he would climb in the future. In fact, Scott established more climbs on the high mountains of the world after his ascent of Everest than before. Those climbs will be covered in the second volume of his life and times.
At dusk on 24 September 1975, Doug Scott and Dougal Haston became the first Britons to reach the summit of Everest as lead climbers on Chris Bonington's epic expedition to the mountain's immense south-west face.
As darkness fell, Scott and Haston scraped a small cave in the snow 100 metres below the summit and survived the highest bivouac ever - without bottled oxygen, sleeping bags and, as it turned out, frostbite. For Doug Scott, it was the fulfilment of a fortune-teller's prophecy given to his mother: that her eldest son would be in danger in a high place with the whole world watching.
Scott and Haston returned home national heroes with their image splashed across the front pages. Scott went on to become one of Britain's greatest ever mountaineers, pioneering new climbs in the remotest corners of the globe. His career spans the golden age of British climbing from the 1960s boom in outdoor adventure to the new wave of lightweight alpinism throughout the 1970s and 1980s.
In Up and About, the first volume of his autobiography, Scott tells his story from his birth in Nottingham during the darkest days of war to the summit of the world. Surviving the unplanned bivouac without oxygen near the summit of Everest widened the range of what and how he would climb in the future. In fact, Scott established more climbs on the high mountains of the world after his ascent of Everest than before. Those climbs will be covered in the second volume of his life and times.
Reviews / Votes
'"Up and About" is an understatement. In this book are clear and comprehensive accounts of some of the most dangerous things it's possible to do. From winning a baby show in Nottingham to taking on the most perilous rock faces in the world this is a full and fascinating portrait of one of the great figures of mountaineering. A man for whom no challenge went unanswered.' - Michael Palin 'As well as relaying the literal ups and downs of the biggest walls and highest mountains in the world, Scott writes with honesty about the emotional and personal peaks and troughs of a life where family relationships are put under strain and life itself is so often at risk.' - Allan Tunningley, The Westmorland GazetteMore details
Language
English
Place of publication
United Kingdom
Product notice
Paperback (UK-trade)
With flaps
Illustrations
Halftones, color; Halftones, black and white
Dimensions
Height: 235 mm
Width: 159 mm
Thickness: 37 mm
Weight
778 gr
ISBN-13
978-1-911342-82-3 (9781911342823)
Copyright in bibliographic data and cover images is held by Nielsen Book Services Limited or by the publishers or by their respective licensors: all rights reserved.
Schweitzer Classification
Person
Born in Nottingham in 1941, Doug Scott began climbing in Derbyshire when he was thirteen and without any obvious plan in it was soon discovering the cliffs of Snowdonia, Scotland, the Alps and the Dolomites. He completed his first Alpine season at the age of eighteen. In 1965, aged twenty-three, he went on his first organised expedition, to the Tibesti Mountains of Chad. It was to be the first of many trips to the high mountains of the world. On 24 September 1975, he and his climbing partner Dougal Haston became the first Britons to reach the summit of Mount Everest, via the formidable South-West Face, and they became national heroes. In total, Scott made forty-two expeditions to the high mountains of Asia, reaching the summits of forty peaks. With the exception of his ascent of Everest, he made all his climbs in lightweight or alpine style and without the use of supplementary oxygen. Scott was made a CBE in 1994. He was a president of the Alpine Club, and in 1999 he received the Royal Geographical Society Patron's Gold Medal. In 2011 he was awarded the Lifetime Achievement Award by the Piolets d'Or, during the presentation of which his mountaineering style was described as 'visionary'. In 1995 he founded Community Action Nepal (CAN), a UK-based registered charity whose aim is to help mountaineers to support the mountain people of Nepal. Up until his death in December 2020, Scott continued to climb, write and lecture, avidly supporting the work of CAN. He is the author of six books, including Up and About and The Ogre. Kangchenjunga is his final book.
Content
Preface; The First Age; Chapter One: Wildchild; Chapter Two: The Canal; The Second Age; Chapter Three: Empires; Chapter Four: History Lessons; The Third Age; Chapter Five: Jan; Chapter Six: Atlas; Chapter Seven: Dolomites; Chapter Eight: Tibesti; Chapter Nine: Hindu Kush; Chapter Ten: Strone; The Fourth Age; Chapter Eleven: A Changing World; Chapter Twelve: Yosemite; Chapter Thirteen: Baffin; Chapter Fourteen: Don; Chapter Fifteen: Everest Again; Chapter Sixteen: Changabang; Chapter Seventeen: Tragedy in the Pamirs; Chapter Eighteen: Strategy and Tactics; Chapter Nineteen: Everest Regained; Epilogue; Acknowledgements; Bibliography; Index.