The Bond
Two epic climbs in Alaska and a lifetime's connection between climbers
Published on 2. November 2017
Book
Paperback/Softback
352 pages
978-1-911342-55-7 (ISBN)
Description
'Man, the only - only - good thing about that climb was that you were tied on to the other end of the rope.'
Simon McCartney was a cocky young British alpinist climbing many of the hardest routes in the Alps during the late seventies, but it was a chance meeting in Chamonix in 1977 with Californian 'Stonemaster' Jack Roberts that would dramatically change both their lives - and almost end Simon's.
Inspired by a Bradford Washburn photograph published in Mountain magazine, their first objective was the 5,500-foot north face of Mount Huntington, one of the most dangerous walls in the Alaska Range. The result was a route so hard and serious that for decades nobody believed they had climbed it - it is still unrepeated to this day. Then, raising the bar even higher, they made the first ascent of the south-west face of Denali, a climb that would prove almost fatal for Simon, and one which would break the bond between him and climbing, separating the two young climbers for over three decades. But the bond between Simon and Jack couldn't remain dormant forever. A lifetime later, a chance reconnection with Jack gave Simon the chance to bury the ghosts of what happened high on Denali, when he had faced almost certain death.
The Bond is Simon McCartney's award-winning story of these legendary climbs.
Simon McCartney was a cocky young British alpinist climbing many of the hardest routes in the Alps during the late seventies, but it was a chance meeting in Chamonix in 1977 with Californian 'Stonemaster' Jack Roberts that would dramatically change both their lives - and almost end Simon's.
Inspired by a Bradford Washburn photograph published in Mountain magazine, their first objective was the 5,500-foot north face of Mount Huntington, one of the most dangerous walls in the Alaska Range. The result was a route so hard and serious that for decades nobody believed they had climbed it - it is still unrepeated to this day. Then, raising the bar even higher, they made the first ascent of the south-west face of Denali, a climb that would prove almost fatal for Simon, and one which would break the bond between him and climbing, separating the two young climbers for over three decades. But the bond between Simon and Jack couldn't remain dormant forever. A lifetime later, a chance reconnection with Jack gave Simon the chance to bury the ghosts of what happened high on Denali, when he had faced almost certain death.
The Bond is Simon McCartney's award-winning story of these legendary climbs.
Reviews / Votes
This book portrays life at the very edge of existence.' - Graham Desroy, Chair of Judges, Boardman Tasker Award 'Recalled and written thirty years after the fact, The Bond is an intoxicating read told with an immediacy that transports one directly onto the face of the mountain. The word epic is the most overused word in the climbers lexicon but this is an epic tale in the true sense of the word.' - Paul Pritchard, 2016 Banff Mountain Book Competition JuryMore details
Language
English
Place of publication
United Kingdom
Product notice
Paperback (UK-trade)
With flaps
Illustrations
Black and white photographs and 2x 16pp colour plates
Dimensions
Height: 234 mm
Width: 156 mm
Thickness: 28 mm
Weight
640 gr
ISBN-13
978-1-911342-55-7 (9781911342557)
Copyright in bibliographic data and cover images is held by Nielsen Book Services Limited or by the publishers or by their respective licensors: all rights reserved.
Schweitzer Classification
Persons
Simon McCartney was born in London in 1955 and was introduced to the mountains of the UK by his father, Mac. He became addicted to climbing in his early teens and spent his school holidays climbing all over the UK. A fine season in 1977 as the sorcerer's apprentice to Dave Wilkinson, one of Britain's leading alpinists, produced a number of paradigm-changing climbs. A first and extreme ascent in the Bernese Oberland and a string of second ascents and test-piece climbs around Chamonix changed Simon's perspective on what was possible. The pair attempted a summer ascent of the north face of the Eiger but were thwarted by poor weather. Simon climbed the route in the winter of 1979. In 1977 Simon met Californian 'Stonemaster' Jack Roberts in a Chamonix bar. A partnership was formed and the pair went on to test the limits of their ability on two remarkable first ascents in Alaska, the second of which, on Denali in 1980, effectively ended Simon's climbing career. Simon is now a successful businessman living in Hong Kong where his dubious talent in calculated but compulsive risk-taking has continued, albeit on South East Asia's most prestigious buildings. The Bond is his first book.
Content
Foreword by Mark Westman; Prologue; Chapter 1 First Time Lucky; Chapter 2 Deliverance; Chapter 3 The Walking One and Only; Chapter 4 A New World; Chapter 5 Alaska; Chapter 6 The Ruth Glacier; Chapter 7 Craps; Chapter 8 Roulette; Chapter 9 The Ramp; Chapter 10 The Surprise; Chapter 11 Sheer Luck; Chapter 12 Coming Down; Chapter 13 'An obsession for the mentally deranged'; Chapter 14 Unfinished Business; Chapter 15 The Natural; Chapter 16 Too Loose; Chapter 17 The Valley of Death; Chapter 18 The Fissure McCartney; Chapter 19 Mixed Feelings; Chapter 20 The Roberts Traverse; Chapter 21 Hypoxia; Chapter 22 The Dilemma; Chapter 23 The Choice; Chapter 24 The Freaks; Chapter 25 Airdrop; Chapter 26 Flight; Chapter 27 Providence; Chapter 28 Australia; Chapter 29 The Kangaroo Route; Chapter 30 Hong Kong; Chapter 31 The Bond; Acknowledgements.